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To be honest, if you dont have the cash for a bottle opener... you probably shouldnt play with N2O too much... Nitrous can cause some serious harm to engine internals. The first time I had a N2O problem, my fuel solenoid didnt open at 140 mph. I blew a hole in #7 piston. Cost me over 10k for a new motor with upgrades. The next N2O issue I had was a N2O back fire. This cost me 3k for a new hood, intake, and everything else it took in its path.
To be honest, if you dont have the cash for a bottle opener... you probably shouldnt play with N2O too much... Nitrous can cause some serious harm to engine internals. The first time I had a N2O problem, my fuel solenoid didnt open at 140 mph. I blew a hole in #7 piston. Cost me over 10k for a new motor with upgrades. The next N2O issue I had was a N2O back fire. This cost me 3k for a new hood, intake, and everything else it took in its path.
I told you Glen you are to old to have a bottle :lolg:
To be honest, if you dont have the cash for a bottle opener... you probably shouldnt play with N2O too much... Nitrous can cause some serious harm to engine internals. The first time I had a N2O problem, my fuel solenoid didnt open at 140 mph. I blew a hole in #7 piston. Cost me over 10k for a new motor with upgrades. The next N2O issue I had was a N2O back fire. This cost me 3k for a new hood, intake, and everything else it took in its path.
IMO nitrous is the safest/cheapest power adder there is. Run a dry system and you eliminate fuel solenoid problems. Run dual nitrous solenoids and you always have one backing up the other in case one fails, and most of all don't go overboard on your HP increase according to your engine build. I've been running nitrous for about 20 years with no problems, so this is the other side of the coin.
Mounting behind the seat you have to be careful to not drill into the fuel tank, but otherwise it's a good choice because you can still store a targa top. Mine is crrently mounted to the side of the center storage because of size 15Lb. 10lb in center is also a good spot front to back or side to side. Have fun, and you don't need a remote opener if you don't want one.
I will agree that N2O is the best/ cheapest poweradder. I have been a N2O user for 5 years now and these are the only issues I have experienced. The short runners on a Ls1/6 intake make it ideal for nitrous, but you cannot deny that the LS1/6 is prone to go lean on #7 in any forced induction application. For most of us we have a significant amount of disposible income or at least a charge card with a high limit to reduce down time in the event of a Forced induction failure. People think Nitrous is the cheapest way to get power, and I will agree. But with the design of our motors, You would be an idiot not to at least know the risks you are taking with your car by placing nitrous on your car. Just for the record I am redesigning my N2O set as we speak, so even after 2 mishaps I am still addicted.
I will agree that N2O is the best/ cheapest poweradder. I have been a N2O user for 5 years now and these are the only issues I have experienced. The short runners on a Ls1/6 intake make it ideal for nitrous, but you cannot deny that the LS1/6 is prone to go lean on #7 in any forced induction application. For most of us we have a significant amount of disposible income or at least a charge card with a high limit to reduce down time in the event of a Forced induction failure. People think Nitrous is the cheapest way to get power, and I will agree. But with the design of our motors, You would be an idiot not to at least know the risks you are taking with your car by placing nitrous on your car. Just for the record I am redesigning my N2O set as we speak, so even after 2 mishaps I am still addicted.
I agree.
One more thing to consider about running a wet system is fuel puddling which can be a problem; the reason being, intake on LS1/LS6 was designed for air flow only, in the upper intake. This can be a problem that I believe is the cause of most intake backfires on nitrous set-ups. So, unless you need a real big shot (above125/150) stay with dry for safety and a simple install. These are just my opinions (some facts) for info sake only.
Edit: I am currently running/installing a NOS 5177 dry kit with (2) #38 125hp jets.