When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
well i installed the racetronix fuel pump praying it would help the large dip on the dyno....but it didnt help...my fuel pressure stayed rock soild this time but i still have problems on the top end......the dyno operator said i am still running too lean and he thinks the dip may be that my MAF tables need to be adjusted a lot because of the supercharger ........i thought that 14 on A/F scale meant i was running rich...maybe i am thinking backwards...he said i want to be around 12 on the scale....any comments??????????
Have you changed the pulley? Are you using the Vortech program? How long since a filter change? Some thoughts.
At the rate your going you must have some pretty heavy detonation. Start saving for new motor or don't get on it until you figure it out. Take it from someone who has had to get a engine rebuilt a couple of months after the vortech and a smaller pulley. :cheers:
well i installed the racetronix fuel pump praying it would help the large dip on the dyno....but it didnt help...my fuel pressure stayed rock soild this time but i still have problems on the top end......the dyno operator said i am still running too lean and he thinks the dip may be that my MAF tables need to be adjusted a lot because of the supercharger ........i thought that 14 on A/F scale meant i was running rich...maybe i am thinking backwards...he said i want to be around 12 on the scale....any comments??????????
[Modified by corvette184, 1:10 AM 1/19/2004]
You want a supercharged engine to be running around 12 AFR at WOT. 14 is way to lean. I would probably start by increasing your PE vs RPM table to dump more fuel from 1600RPM upto 7200RPM and then log WOT again while on the Dyno and look to see if you are getting any KR. I would also try advancing the high octane table as well to increase the timing if required to shoot for around 26-28 degrees at WOT as LS1's seem to produce the most HP. Again, watching for KR. Obvisously, you probably want to raise and lower the timing a degree or two each way when dialing it in to try and achive max power. Good Luck. The joy of tuning :?)
Are you logging while on the Dyno? It could be knock retard backing the timing down when it senses detonation arounf 5500RPM when you see your power drop. Really need to log to see.
Man, that's pretty nasty looking..... STILL!!!! I would look at either the tune from Johan or maybe it's electrical related?? Though you did install the Racetronix soooooo I guess I'm clueless. :crazy:
Did you datalog while on the dyno? Could you possibly log the car on the street with a notebook and some software for that purpose, I think one is named Ease? Perhaps others will chime in here.
EFILive V8 Pro rocks! You can see just whats happening. Total requirement for seeing how everything is working and where your problems are. Of course there is a learning curve, not so much the tool, but rather the understanding of how the SFI works and all the sensors and what it all means. There is where a good tuner can really help. Dynojet with a wideband O2, A decent logging program and LS1Edit. Can make a kitten purr.
You want a supercharged engine to be running around 12 AFR at WOT. 14 is way to lean. I would probably start by increasing your PE vs RPM table to dump more fuel from 1600RPM upto 7200RPM and then log WOT again while on the Dyno and look to see if you are getting any KR. I would also try advancing the high octane table as well to increase the timing if required to shoot for around 26-28 degrees at WOT as LS1's seem to produce the most HP. Again, watching for KR. Obvisously, you probably want to raise and lower the timing a degree or two each way when dialing it in to try and achive max power. Good Luck. The joy of tuning :?)
Are you logging while on the Dyno? It could be knock retard backing the timing down when it senses detonation arounf 5500RPM when you see your power drop. Really need to log to see.
:cheers:
26 to 28 degress of timing under boost will blow your rings on the first pull. Start at 15 and get the AF dialed in at at about 11.7. Then bump timing up slowly until you hit 19-21 (keeping and eye on the AF). I try to let it dip a little at peak torque and then slowly rise. You will have a good safe tune if you can hit 18+ degrees of timing at redline.
Also, the MAF will max out on a FI car running a decent amount of boost. This is where you have to start adding fuel with the PE tables. You don't do it across the board. Your PE graph should be pretty flat until the maf maxes and then it should have an exponential rise (since the base calc is no longer adding fuel).
You can see exacly when your maf maxes with a decent scanner. Good luck.
i have new plugs..NGK TR-6 at .035 and new msd wires.....i have a new tune for mondays dyno runs....hopefully i will be closer to safe on this tune...i would rather lose some power and be able to stay in boost all day long....i love this car with the supercharger......hopefully i can get this thing just right..Johan at diablosport has been simply awesome with his customer service.....every email has been returned super fast and he asks for some info and i have a new tune in my email inbox the next day :hurray: :hurray: :hurray: service cant be anybetter... :yesnod:
I have a dyno sheet that looks just like that. I was told it was either spark delivery problems (bad plugs or wires) or possibly valve float although it is at relitively low rpm.
thanks for the link........i just happen to have one of the cool MOORE PERFORMANCE valve spring tools .......maybe a mod for next week.......any recomm... for springs???? maybe just some stock 02 Z06 springs??
to be really safe, you need to be 11.5-12. 14+ is VERY dangerous.
that dip is very very common, and can be caused by bad plug wires, bad plugs, defect in stock ls1 cam design, bad tune, etc. do a search for "dip dyno 5500" and you'll get some answers (and more questions).