im looking to put nitrous on my 2003 z06. i dont know much about all the new nitrous systems that are out so i was looking for some guidance on which give the best results for the money. any help is apprieciated.

thanks

 

really depends on how much you want to spend or spray... Anything under 100 I would say go dry. 100-150 go wet..... 150 and up go direct port.

Here is a nitrous 101 document I put together a few months back, enjoy..


Welcome to Nitrous 101. First forget everything you saw in the ‘fast and the furious’. Next, let me go into some info about nitrous oxide. Nitrous itself is not flammable. From an atomic standpoint the formula is N2O (nitrous oxide). Nitrous makes its power by cooling the air and providing extra oxygen allowing the fuel to burn more efficiently in the cylinder. The extra oxygen is what makes tons of torque.
There are 2 types of nitrous kits, wet and dry. A dry kit sprays nitrous before the mass air flow meter and gets pulled into the cylinders by the vacuum of the intake. Spraying nitrous before the mass air flow sensor causes the computer to think that the engine is in a lean condition; causing it to flood the injectors.
A wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous through a fogger system. Atomically fuel and nitrous will not bond. Since nitrous and fuel repel each other, the combination must be forced together via a fogger. This fogger should be placed as close to the intake as possible. The location is critical since you want to minimize the travel time, minimizing the possibility of the mixture separating.
There is another type of wet kit, direct port. Direct port nitrous sprays fuel and nitrous ‘directly’ into the cylinders. This eliminates the travel time in the manifold and prevents the possibility of the combination separating. Spraying nitrous directly into the cylinder also allows you to control the amount of nitrous in each cylinder.
Now let’s talk about the negatives of nitrous. First let’s look at the negatives of a dry kit. When a dry kit floods the injectors due to the lean condition the nitrous causes, the computer floods the injector by looking at the long term fuel curves. These curves change every time the computer senses wide open throttle; making it difficult to get a proper tune. On a wet kit, there are two negatives. First is the possibility of puddling. Puddling is when the fuel and nitrous separate in the manifold. The fuel then sticks to the inside of the manifold, and ignites from the heat of the valves and cylinders. The combustion of fuel in the intake causes a large explosion. This is why having proper vacuum is essential. A window switch will allow you to prevent puddling by activating the nitrous after 3000 rpms. Another negative is that most of the nitrous goes to the rear of the manifold causing the rear cylinders to get more nitrous that the front cylinders. Direct port kits are traditionally more expensive than wet or dry kits but they are engineered to be safer since you can dictate how much nitrous and fuel enters each cylinder.
There are several accessories that you can add to the nitrous system to help with safety. First is a window switch. The window switch allows for a signal to be passed when the rpms are in a ‘window’. The window is generally adjustable and is ideally set between 3000 and 5800 on the LS1. Next is a fuel pressure safety switch. The fuel pressure safety switch applies the ground when fuel pressure is ideal. If fuel pressure drops under the screw setting then the ground is broken and the solenoids won’t open. I do not like the fuel pressure safety switch since it is very hard to get right. A nitrous filter is the preferred method of keeping your solenoids clean.
Please let me know if this helps you and if you have any questions.

Glenn Piller
Arizona Nitrous Technology

 

all of the information is very helpful thanks. oh and by the way i think im gonna go with a dry kit for a 50 or 75 shot. thanks again
:thumbs:

 

Ive had a Nitrous Express wet system on my C5 for 3 months now and im very impressed with it .

I personaly prefer Wet systems over dry systems b/c it supplys fuel and nitrous together and you can safely run 150 hp shot of N20 .

The dry system only supplys N20 into the intake and relys on the computer and fuel injectors to compensate for the needed fuel and you can only run 100-125 shot safely .

I bought the NX generic EFI system for around $475.00 added a purge solenoid for $75.00 and an Automatic bottle warmer for $200.00

It hard to say who makes the better Nitrous system , from what ive read they are all good , I went with price and service of Nitrous Express .

Its a very simple system and most kits are very safe up to a certain level on stockish C5 Corvettes .

Read and Understand the installation instructions and your good to go .

 

Good info Glenn . :cheers: :thumbs:

 

I have an 04 C5 and I have been debating either installing a supercharger or Nitrous system. I have been leaning towards the Nitrous and this information helped me understand the differnt types and what they do.

Thanks

 

Heres some NX brackets if you go that route ,, :hat
http://www.geocities.com/zoomzs/NX_Install.html http://www.geocities.com/zoomzs/NX_Bracket.html

Had to throw that in there :cool:


[Modified by zoomz, 11:26 PM 2/15/2004]

 

Make sure you have a ready supply of nitrous available and always make it a habit to check your plugs with a magnifier on a regular basis to see if you have any detonation. An improperly set up nitrous system will burn holes through pistons faster than a cutting torch. Also be aware that some states have severe restrictions on carrying full nitrous bottles in cars. The other side of the coin is the RUSH you get when the system kicks in - kinda like afterburners :thumbs: :steering:

Chuck :seeya

 

I have the NX system and have had no problems with it going on 3yrs with it and still putting it to the pavement :thumbs:

 

The above post had some really good info but I have to disagree about this part of it. The fuel trims (LTFTs) only change when idling and cruising. The LTFT's lock when in PE (power enrichment) mode which is anything over ~75% throttle. You'd only be spraying at WOT so the LTFT's should not be affected. That's my take anyway.

:cheers:

 

I would have to agree with Bill on this one. That is why it is important to get a tune if you plan on going over a 100 shot. Only way to be safe with A/F ratio. Just my 2cents. :iagree:

 

:iagree:

 

I love my NX kit.

 

That's the drawback of a dry kit IMO. You depend solely on the MAF to add the right amount of fuel. If the MAF add's too much or too little you can try altering how the nozzle sprays to try and resolve it or get it tuned with LS1 Edit. I don't know if there is a way to tune it so it runs ideal on and off the bottle. Maybe LS1 Edit could change the correction multiplier for really cold IAT temps which is what the MAF see's the N2O as.

With a wet kit, you just increase or decrease the size of your fuel jet(s). I'm still an advocate of dry for 125 HP and under though.

 

you are correct.. the long term fuel curves do not change under WOT. They do vary from day to day though, unless you drive at WOT all the time. That was really the point I was trying to convey. I did a test using LS1 edit to view my LTF curves. It varied from +10 to +25 depending on when I floored it during the test. With a correction factor of 15% I would not be using a dry kit for larger than 100 shot.