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Being around 400RWHP already, I'm not really sure if I would want to go to 150shot for safety reasons anyhow. What do all think? Which one is really safer? I know dry is less of a hassle to install. This seems to be a pro wet forum though, and then I have others offline telling me, if you can avoid fuel in the intake, I would, dry is safer, yadda yadda. Which is it? Need to get some work done before the month is over. :D
im my research into the different N20 setup's Direct port is the safest and most expensive and strongest hit with lots of room for upgrades .
The EFI wet system is is the the middle of the line kit that i bought b/c i wanted to safely run between 100-150 shot without having to change injectors .
The dry system is the weekest at 75-100 max safely but taxes the fuel injectors and basicly tricks the computer .
Ive never had a problem with the wet kit and it installed fairly easy .
The Z06 motor and injectors can safely handle a 100-150 shot wet without any problems .
I run a 100 shot with 93 octain on the street and a 150 shot with 100 octain at the track safely .
It realy depends on what you want to do HP wise .
50-75 hp go dry , 100-150 go efi wet , 175 and up go direct port .
If I'm doing 100-150 shot, what is the best thing to do for safety, run 100+ octane with wet? RPM Switch maybe? How do I keep one of those famous LS1 backfires blowing off my intake like I've seen before. I want to do as much as possible without damage, keeping in mind that the car already puts out in the sig.
The dry kits are fine for 50 hp or so. The wet kits are better because you can "tune" them by changing jets. The best way to go but its very expensive is a direct port. The problem is that fuel does not travel around corners very well and the intakes do make some sharp turns into the runners. I do not really like to go more then 75-100 wet with a nozzle system. Anything over 100 hp shop we recommend going direct port. :seeya
I run a 125 dry shot (NOS 5177 kit), with no problems at all. Been using it for well over a year now. A/F drops nicely, no lean conditions, and really easy to install.
I run NGK TR6's and the only mods i have are G&S Air Intake and Corsa exaust .
The car was surging at wot , so after asking many questions to many ppl , my NX dealer here in town said to try running the next size down on the fuel pill (#32 instead of #33)and check the plugs to see if they show lean after makeing a pass .
Sure enough , the car stopped surging and runs great at wot and the plugs look perfect.
On another note , i used a Predator Programmer to change shifts points and the rev limiter , i also boosted the shift preasure so the tranny wouldnt slurr in between gears while running n2o .(I found that a window switch on an automatic SUCKS when running a 1/4 mile pass)
I also back out 2 degrees of timming with the Predator Programmer before using 150 shot jets at the track.
If you havnt put a shift kit in the tranny , save your money and buy a Predator Tuner .
At max shift preasure my car will break the tires loose going into 2nd at 4k every time , so i backed down the shift preasure and its like i put a shift kit in the car by mearly pushing a few buttons , nice rock solid shifts between gears.
I've been running dry for over 2 years with no problems. Wet hit's harder and dry is smoother. My car runs 10.40's at 135 mph on a dry 130 shot with crappy tires (used) and 1.60's sixty foot. You can make lot's of torque with a wet kit (pills tuning) but my dry has ran and dyno'd with the best of them comp for comp. How does 580rwhp and 603ft lbs of torque sounds to you? again, with a 130hp shot (pill #.67...single nozzle) my brother hooked it up using the LS1 NOS kit and knowledge from our 5.0 Stang days. Yes, you need bigger injectors...I run 36's with my heads, cam and nos set up. :eek: