dry vs. wet
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: topeka ks
dry vs. wet
ok, wait, before everyone gets really upset over seeing the same old topic posted for the zillionth time...here's what i was looking for:
it seems that lots of the other threads that i have read turn into a pissing contest and contain a lot of heresay, so... i was wondering if you fellow forumers could post your personal experiences with n2o. which system have you installed? have you had good/bad luck with it? how soon before a rebuild? like the power? why do you like wet over dry or vice-a-versa?
i just bought a dry system and wondered about getting wet instead before i installed.
thanks
it seems that lots of the other threads that i have read turn into a pissing contest and contain a lot of heresay, so... i was wondering if you fellow forumers could post your personal experiences with n2o. which system have you installed? have you had good/bad luck with it? how soon before a rebuild? like the power? why do you like wet over dry or vice-a-versa?
i just bought a dry system and wondered about getting wet instead before i installed.
thanks
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks Ca
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
Similar situation here!
I can get a complete used dry system for $500, or a new wet NX system for $1200. Safety and reliability is a bigger concern than the extra bucks.
Can members who use wet/dry please post their experiences (once again).
I can get a complete used dry system for $500, or a new wet NX system for $1200. Safety and reliability is a bigger concern than the extra bucks.
Can members who use wet/dry please post their experiences (once again).
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: topeka ks
Re: dry vs. wet (ICULUKN-C5)
iculukn
the kit i have, but have yet to install, sprays the n2o at the maf. do you think that i still have the possibility to puddle in the intake with the gas being sprayed that far away?
the kit i have, but have yet to install, sprays the n2o at the maf. do you think that i still have the possibility to puddle in the intake with the gas being sprayed that far away?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,064
Likes: 18
From: Arizona
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
You always want to limit the distance between the fogger and the cylinder. Chemically N2O and fuel repel each other; that is why they have to be 'atomized'. If too much time elapses between the atomization and the combustion in the cylinders the mix will separate; puddling the intake. If you are going to use your MAFS sprayer then I would make sure that you put your window switch in the 3400-3600 range. This will ensure enough vacuum. If you have the money I would convert it to a fogger and put it closer to the throttle body.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: topeka ks
Re: dry vs. wet (ICULUKN-C5)
i think that i just realized i have been operating under a false understanding of how my system will work. i thought that the nitrous fogging jet sprayed nitrous only and then the fuel injectors sprayed in the right amount of gasoline. do the foggers mix fuel in with the nitrous? if this is the case, i dont understand why i would not want to just inject the nitrous right into the cylinders (what i think a wet kit does, right?)
i may be all messed up, but im still learning what's going on here, so dont be too harsh in your replies
:bb
i may be all messed up, but im still learning what's going on here, so dont be too harsh in your replies
:bb
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks Ca
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
I was told by "sexi blk FRC" that the Dry system is safer and does not puddle up the intake like the wet system can do. He also claims that the dry system is safer. It seems like there's a 50/50 opinion on this...
The dry system is so much less expensive (particularly used!) so I think this is what I will get.
The dry system is so much less expensive (particularly used!) so I think this is what I will get.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 7,064
Likes: 18
From: Arizona
Re: dry vs. wet (Fulano)
There are 2 types of nitrous kits
dry kits go before the MAFS and only sprays nitrous. This is not necessarily safer, as it is difficult to tune. Also spraying n2o through the MAFS freezes the wires, that fools the computer into thinking it is very cold (lean) so the computer adds fuel. If you have a 97-00 you have small injectors 26#. It is true that you will not puddle with a dry kit
A wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous together through a fogger. This goes as close to the cylinder as possible. On the C5 the single fogger nozzle should go in the coupler as close to the throttle body as possible.
dry kits go before the MAFS and only sprays nitrous. This is not necessarily safer, as it is difficult to tune. Also spraying n2o through the MAFS freezes the wires, that fools the computer into thinking it is very cold (lean) so the computer adds fuel. If you have a 97-00 you have small injectors 26#. It is true that you will not puddle with a dry kit
A wet kit sprays fuel and nitrous together through a fogger. This goes as close to the cylinder as possible. On the C5 the single fogger nozzle should go in the coupler as close to the throttle body as possible.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,427
Likes: 0
From: houston texas
Re: dry vs. wet (Fulano)
I RUN THE TNT wet kit, love the power, no problems yet. i have tried a 75 shot, 100 shot and 150 shot..............i am running a 100 shot now, it gives me all i need....... 
i would go nx or tnt wet and spray after 1st gear to help with the puddling thing........... 
also install a window switch and set it after 3400 rpms ...........
[Modified by MC TORCH RED, 11:56 PM 4/22/2004]
i would go nx or tnt wet and spray after 1st gear to help with the puddling thing........... also install a window switch and set it after 3400 rpms ........... [Modified by MC TORCH RED, 11:56 PM 4/22/2004]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,117
Likes: 1
From: Cedar Falls Iowa
Re: dry vs. wet (ICULUKN-C5)
ICULUKN-C5 What do you think of the DTE plate system which goes behind the throtle body? Wouldn't this be as close to a direct port system? Has anyone had any issues with this system? Sounds pretty good to me without the added expense of the direct port setup. 
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks Ca
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
I just PayPal'd Sexi Black FRC for his used dry NOS kit. Complete with WOT switch, 15lb bottle, window rpm switch, and all wiring. $475! 
Can't beat it as a temporary solution!
Bottle Blown racing in Camarillo is doing my install next week, including tuning and Dyno. I'll post my experience as soon as I can!
Can't beat it as a temporary solution! Bottle Blown racing in Camarillo is doing my install next week, including tuning and Dyno. I'll post my experience as soon as I can!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: topeka ks
Re: dry vs. wet (ICULUKN-C5)
now that i have spent about 2500 bucks on all of my nitrous stuff i think that i relize that they saw me coming, all fat dumb and happy.
but what to do to fix my problem?
i think that now i probably want a direct port injection system, so im going to try and decide what i have that i could use on that type of a system and what i have that i wont even need now.
oh well
drive on my brothers
but what to do to fix my problem?
i think that now i probably want a direct port injection system, so im going to try and decide what i have that i could use on that type of a system and what i have that i wont even need now.
oh well
drive on my brothers
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Re: dry vs. wet (Fulano)
I just PayPal'd Sexi Black FRC for his used dry NOS kit. Complete with WOT switch, 15lb bottle, window rpm switch, and all wiring. $475! Can't beat it as a temporary solution!
Bottle Blown racing in Camarillo is doing my install next week, including tuning and Dyno. I'll post my experience as soon as I can!
Can't beat it as a temporary solution! Bottle Blown racing in Camarillo is doing my install next week, including tuning and Dyno. I'll post my experience as soon as I can!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
now that i have spent about 2500 bucks on all of my nitrous stuff i think that i relize that they saw me coming,
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Thousand Oaks Ca
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
I'm having Bottle Blown racing do my install next week. After that Andy will take care of my new headers (I list 'em in my Sig. but they're still being coated...) as well as tuning...he told me he has a deal for $3500 for heads/cam that I will probably go for at the same time (2 weeks out). Maybe I'll get a Z06 top and some larger injectors at the same time.
I was gonna hold off on a blower, but now it looks like I'm already in for $7K to start...my wife hates me
Good thing I make the bucks
I was gonna hold off on a blower, but now it looks like I'm already in for $7K to start...my wife hates me
Good thing I make the bucks
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 432
Likes: 0
From: topeka ks
Re: dry vs. wet (5 Liter Eater)
yeah, ive seen that setup. ( http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=799684 ) i'm thinking about that. just wondering what i have that i could get rid of to convert to such a direct port system and sell some excess parts to recoop some $'s!!!
live and learn, i guess
here's what i purchased from racenet:
nitrous express ls1 maf kit w/ 10# bottle
msd window switch
throttle position switch
auto bottle opener
inline filter
acessory switches (like guys put in their ash tray spot)
genx2 kit
come to think of it, i bought a few other things from them for that 2500 smacks (a/f gauge, fuel press gauge, boost gauge, white face gauges, shift light, two msd pill sets)
anyone need anything that i would not need to convert to direct port? i suppose that it's for sale. dont guess i could return it, but probably will call them tomorrow to see what their restocking fee is. everything is still in the package. (i still dont have the new maf plates cause they said they were still manufacturing them)
[Modified by cnationshb, 12:20 AM 4/19/2004]
live and learn, i guess
here's what i purchased from racenet:
nitrous express ls1 maf kit w/ 10# bottle
msd window switch
throttle position switch
auto bottle opener
inline filter
acessory switches (like guys put in their ash tray spot)
genx2 kit
come to think of it, i bought a few other things from them for that 2500 smacks (a/f gauge, fuel press gauge, boost gauge, white face gauges, shift light, two msd pill sets)
anyone need anything that i would not need to convert to direct port? i suppose that it's for sale. dont guess i could return it, but probably will call them tomorrow to see what their restocking fee is. everything is still in the package. (i still dont have the new maf plates cause they said they were still manufacturing them)
[Modified by cnationshb, 12:20 AM 4/19/2004]
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Springfield Missouri
Re: dry vs. wet (cnationshb)
I've installed and custom built more nitrous systems than i can recall. here's the basic 411
wet systems are more expensive but are the only way to add big power
fogger systems are wet systems
dry systems are cheap and they can "safely" add up to about 100 HP. and that's on a 'stock" engine. if the engine already has higher fuel requirements, the injectors will already be harder pressed, and big dry hits will be maxing out the injectors. this will create a lean condition
nitrous without fuel WILL lean out the mix. you WILL damage your engine running it lean and hard.
PERSONALLY, i will be building a 2-stage custom "semi-fogger" using a NOS fogger throttle body that had the injectors for the wet system built in for a 50 shot, then the second stage will be a wet 150 shot plumbed in in front of the TB. it will be activated by a custom-fabbed dual redundancy manual console and with a 3500 window switch and full-throttle switch. 2 tanks, custom painted to match interior, solenoids painted to match firewall, hidden creatively, and purge system..... but then again... i'm like a shiIehouse rat...
the key is "CYA"...cover good, save engines. don't...well, you always wanted to build a stroker, right?
semper FI :flag
wet systems are more expensive but are the only way to add big power
fogger systems are wet systems
dry systems are cheap and they can "safely" add up to about 100 HP. and that's on a 'stock" engine. if the engine already has higher fuel requirements, the injectors will already be harder pressed, and big dry hits will be maxing out the injectors. this will create a lean condition
nitrous without fuel WILL lean out the mix. you WILL damage your engine running it lean and hard.
PERSONALLY, i will be building a 2-stage custom "semi-fogger" using a NOS fogger throttle body that had the injectors for the wet system built in for a 50 shot, then the second stage will be a wet 150 shot plumbed in in front of the TB. it will be activated by a custom-fabbed dual redundancy manual console and with a 3500 window switch and full-throttle switch. 2 tanks, custom painted to match interior, solenoids painted to match firewall, hidden creatively, and purge system..... but then again... i'm
like a shiIehouse rat...the key is "CYA"...cover good, save engines. don't...well, you always wanted to build a stroker, right?
semper FI :flag
Collections Hold
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,520
Likes: 2
From: Tacoma WA
Re: dry vs. wet (ICULUKN-C5)
ICULUKIN, isn't it a fact that '97/'98 have the larger 28# injectors? I checked my files and found this from 4 seperate sources.
I've run the dry with no problems for over a year, I think it's best for the smaller shots (safer). I do have experiance with wet for over 20 years and it works well also.
I've run the dry with no problems for over a year, I think it's best for the smaller shots (safer). I do have experiance with wet for over 20 years and it works well also.
