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Has anyone tried moving the motor back to get crank pulley clearance, or for space for a blower-only drive belt? I believe the only thing that could be a show-stopper would be the clearance behind the intake manifold, maybe the shifter.
Re: Anyone try shifting the engine back? (blu00rdstr)
The only thing holding the entire rear of the drivetrain up is an isolation bushing mounted to the rear diff/cradle... that is slotted. I suppose the front motor mounts could be slotted as well but I'm not sure how far back you could safely go... even with slotting stock hardware. Plus, there is NOT much room between the motor/bellhousing and the firewall in current stock form. You MIGHT be able to go back an inch... if you relocate the thick harness on the passanger side of the motor... supported by a clip bracket on the backside of the passanger head. Honestly, I don't think there is enough room to go with a dedicated S/C drive. If so... you would have seen a seperate DIRECT cog drive LONG ago. Hell, I'm not even sure there is enough room for a 10-rib setup on the common accessory drive... but I'm sure Andy has already investigated this
Re: Anyone try shifting the engine back? (Bill Reid)
It seemed an 'extreme' thought, but much more sane than moving the steering rack forwards. But there's only three mount points (2 motor, 1 trans). Steering rack clearance is 1/2", possibly 1/4" is acceptable. If the engine could move back just 3/4", one could actually add a 6-rib to the existing crank pulley. Move it a touch over an inch back, and you could have a dedicated 8-rib (just blower, crank & tensioner) which could cost less than a replacing all the pulleys with 8-rib pulleys.
Add dedicated 6-rib (if only 1/4" rack clearance, move 0.875")
Add dedicated 8-rib (if only 1/4" rack clearance, move 1.139")
6-rib belt = 0.78", 6-rib pulley = 1.125"
8-rib belt = 1.04", 8-rib pulley = 1.389" (+ 0.264")
10-rib belt = 1.3", 10-rib pulley = 1.685" (+ 0.56")
12-rib belt = 1.56", 12-rib pulley = 1.945 (+ 0.82")