I know this has been asked before, but cant find the threads. What I would like to know is what is the best all around blower. I need one that will run good times at the track and yet still be able to run good on the freeway. I ahve ran a 11.51 with just the spray so I dont wanna go slower then that. Taking into consideration that the tranny will have a 3200 stall and 3.42 gear. Also possibly a head and cam package to go along with the blower..

 

F1C Blower turn down the boost because I assume you have a stock bottom end. That blower has a 5.73:1 ratio so it can pick up the a ton of boost by 3200 and will pull hard all the way up.
I would also say go with the G1 or the 21 centry blower cam
6.0 stage 2 heads to lower your compression some
You should be around 540rwhp and be safe without blowing up your motor if you play nice.
Maggie wont get you there.
The D1 and P1 are also possiblitys but there ratio is only 5.0 and 4.0 so the boost will rev up later around 4200

Just my suggestion.
Jon

 

If you need a setup that will deliver at least a mid 11 I would go straight to a D1SC or larger ProCharger (that rhymes). Remember that stock internals are exactly that -- stock.

Mark

 

Could you please send me some info or elaborate more on the the F1C blower. I really dont know much about it..

 

The F1C produces the same about of power at the F1R but it revs up quicker. I think this unit was designed by ATI for the drag racer that wants power earlier and later. Its almost .75 more ratio than any one of there other units. Its my understanding that my car will be the first one that has tried it on the 347ci C5 platform. It was tried out on MTI's 427Z07 and made 768rwhp on pump gas, through cats, and conservative tune.
The unit is still in testing with ATI but I believe you can buy the head unit from them and do a custom bracket setup. A modified D1 bracket from Andy should work. I have an 8 rib setup on mine. If you plan on having a stock bottom you really want to have low boost on this unit. Maybe around 3-5psi. I am going Stg 2 head/aggressive cam LG LT's w/ no cats and a semi conservative tune and we should do around 650-700rwhp @ 10psi. I can get the number difference between the D1 and F1 units if you wish. I hope this helpped some.
Jon

 

That would help. I was thinking on goin with the D1 but if the F1c turns out to produce alittle more pwer on the low end then possibly I will go with this. The thing that I am worried about is that it hasnt been tried on a 346 motor. You can hit me up on AIM if you want to. I would like to know anymore info about it or post it here if you dont have time to talk.
Thanks

AIM: JuicedC5

 

Do the D1 unless you plan to really build up the motor and lower compression a bunch.

D1 is cheap and easy.

 

I do agree I think the F1C might be a little much if you dont plan on doing a complete rebuild later. Here are the specs of ALL the prochargers. http://www.procharger.com/models.shtml
You will notice that all the P1 and D1 are 4.4 ratio. That means they will get into boost later thus TTi kits would be quicker in the quater mile unless the boost was turned up a good amount on the SC. The normal F1, F1R, F1C5.0 all that a better ratio of 5.0. The only unit that revs up the fastest is the F1C with a 5.73:1. You will also notice that the F1C also flows a TON of air. 1850. The unit on a 347 should be a great combo.
I am not sure how you think the D1 is cheap to setup. All SC are pretty expensive at least to me. To do it right with a fully built motor and a stronger tranny and gears yes it is. But then again so is all TT, SC kits.
Jon

 

XCELR8, don't take this the wrong way but you are making gross generalizations with no real world experience to back it up.

You are oversimplifying a very complex system that depends on many things to be well balanced. In other words, more/bigger is not always better.

I understand you are excited about the setup MTI is putting together for you and it sounds like it will be a nice package, but you should hold off with your great offerings of FI wisdom until you have a car that is running down the track and performing.

Sometimes less is better, and I think you are really going to find that out with your gears and that blower

 

You are not lying about that blower and gears. A little late for me to do a gear change now. LOL, I wont get traction till about 120!! Its all in good fun. I am going purely by the stats and the F1C can outperform a D1 just as the D1 can outperform a P1. It does all depand on boost and I do not want to overspin the smaller one and you dont want to underspin the larger one..As for the TTi kits those are more of a quater mile car cause of the torgue curve. I am speaking with semi experience cause of everything I have read and heard. But as for my unit your right no one really tested the F1C on this type of aplication yet and I hope it turns out well and I have trust in MTI.
Jon

 

Go right to turbo. Your probably don't need ported heads (you can decide to go bigger cam after you re-baseline the turbo setup) to get to 11.51 as long as you're willing to use drag radials at the minimum. Note a LPE/21 CMC 550TT setup includes a heads and cam upgrade. Other turbo systems allow you to skip the internal engine work initially.

Heck if, automatic/drag radial'd/stock turbo'd/pump gassed/3000 rpm stall Supra MKIVs can run high 11s @ 116 mph with 375 rwhp, you should have no problem running mid-11s considering:

1.) A turbo automatic C5 should have no problem making 400 rwhp+ (Even IC'd Magnacharged auto C5s make 400+ rwhp with stock heads and cam; and turbos don't have that parastic loss story like S/Cs)
2.) A turbo C5 weighs less and is more aerodynamic than Supras
3.) A 5.7L C5 with stock compression and a bit of boost has gobs more torque from 2000-3500 rpms.

Just remember, your automatic car with a wider ratio spread than 6-speed manuals needs the torque curve characteristics of a turbo'd setup (even if a healthy 3200 rpm stall and a street-wise 3.42 are semi-forgiving to peakier powerbuilding setups).

If went 11.51 with nitrous and like the feel, nothing comes closer to nitrous than spooled up turbos in terms of 1/4 mile capability. The torque curve of a IC'd Magnacharger also has a turbo-like shape although somewhat lower.

If you decide to go centrifugal mechanical S/C and you want to do 11.51 or better solidly (not just in a cool dry evening) then I suggest:

1.) A less street-friendly 3.73 gear but keep the stall / pulley the combo to 7 psi / go blower cam but keep stock heads

OR...

2.) Keep your 3200 rpm stall and 3.42 gear but... go blower specific heads and cam (open up the chambers on LS1 heads to lower CR without hurting swirl flow) / and pulley to 8 psi at shiftpoint. Note making 8 psi on a heads and cam upgrade setup is spinning the blower notably faster than a 7 psi setup on stock motor as described in setup 1. Hence the purpose of a blower cam and ported heads is not so much the top-end power improvements which you'll get...but really to allow the blower to be pullied aggressively to spin much faster in mid rpms without overboosting and running into detonation issues at top rpms. A much faster spinning centrifugal in mid rpms will make launches really strong. If you omit the ported heads and bigger cam, then such a pulley combo and peak boost will be too aggressive and require lower CR pistons.

Finally centrifugal S/C setups really need for you to shift at the 6500 rpms!!!

 

Staged thanks for the info. It looks like I am leaning towards the D1 along with a head and cam to match the blower. I would really like to go to the LPE 550 package but cant spend 20k right now. Most I am working with is 10-12k for now. I should be able to stay within those limits since I will be doin everything myself, except tuning of course. Also prolly go with a Methanol Kit to cool the charge down and help with the fuel. All this should result in a high 10 pass I would hope. we will see..

 

With a $10-12K budget I would heavily consider a Stage II TTi kit or a D1SC ProCharger setup from ECS or A&A. BTW, either kit is capable of making more than enough power to grenade your stock motor without bothering with a heads / cam package.


Mark

 

That sounds great. Good luck.

Normally people don't think of ported heads and a bigger cam for adding launch power (especially to NA folks who think such mods don't add anything appreciable until higher rpms). But on a centrifugal mechanical S/C where boost and airflow around the street torque convertor stall rpm is limited, we have to somehow speed up that blower to increase intake airflow at stall rpms.

But we're not going to simply pulley more aggressively for mid-rpm airflow because you will end up overboosting and detonating at top rpms on pump gas/stock CR. And short-shifting is not an option for best results.

I think if you add a centrifugal mechanical S/C (~7 psi for safety) on an automatic STOCK INTERNAL C5 at your stall, you could beat your 11.51 threshold but don't be surprised if most of your timeslips are 11.8s to 12.3s @ 115-117 mph on DRs in cool air/good baro/pump gas. That will make you mad based on your post above.

The addition of heads and blower cam will give you top end power improvements for sure. But more importantly, you can pulley the blower more aggressively and still stay 7-8 psi simply because of the natural boost drop one gets for freer flowing internals/exhaust if INTERNAL ENGINE UPGRADES ARE MADE FOR FIXED PULLEY RATIOS.

That aggressive pulleying will give you the added airflow (even at similar boost) for strong launches and I hope easy attainment of your < 11.51 sec. e.t. goals on pump gas/stock CR and maybe smog legal. I won't doubt low-11s at comfortably over 120 mph. AND THE HIGH 10 WITH ALCOHOL INJECTION!

This concludes my bench race session