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What's the purpose of the rich/lean dial on the KB BAP? I don't think I'd ever want to use this, and would be afraid that I would set it at one place, tune the car, then accidentally knock the dial throwing off the tune.
The dial looks like it's probably a simple rheostat. Can anyone confirm? I think I might just cut the control cable real short up near the BAP and connect the two wires inside the control cable together, simulating the dial always being maxed out.
What's the purpose of the rich/lean dial on the KB BAP? I don't think I'd ever want to use this, and would be afraid that I would set it at one place, tune the car, then accidentally knock the dial throwing off the tune.
The dial looks like it's probably a simple rheostat. Can anyone confirm? I think I might just cut the control cable real short up near the BAP and connect the two wires inside the control cable together, simulating the dial always being maxed out.
The BAP just increases voltage to the pump from what I understand. The **** regulates the voltage increase incase the FP is bumping too high once the Hobbs switch activates.....of course, this is my assumption. Might be wrong.
What's the purpose of the rich/lean dial on the KB BAP? I don't think I'd ever want to use this, and would be afraid that I would set it at one place, tune the car, then accidentally knock the dial throwing off the tune.
The dial looks like it's probably a simple rheostat. Can anyone confirm? I think I might just cut the control cable real short up near the BAP and connect the two wires inside the control cable together, simulating the dial always being maxed out.
Yea, it controls the voltage output.
It really has no good purpose on our cars. You want it all the way up all the time. I just hid mine out of reach, but eliminating it would be a better idea. I initially wanted to experiment with it, but if I was installing it again I would probably figure out how to eliminate it.
It really has no good purpose on our cars. You want it all the way up all the time. I just hid mine out of reach, but eliminating it would be a better idea. I initially wanted to experiment with it, but if I was installing it again I would probably figure out how to eliminate it.
That's exactly what I thought. The only logical design in this system is that the big red box is the amplifier/regulator and the little black box with the dial is a simple rheostat (changes resistance). I'll measure resistance across the black box and report back here -- my guess is that there is no resistance when the dial is turned all the way up, so a simple short between the two runs inside the cable is probably just what I need.
Will call KB to verify as well. As you mentioned it seems there's no reason to adjust this and since it will eliminate the need for me to run anything inside the car, I'll figure out how to make it work without the dial.
That would go along with their warning that you can not lengthen the cable for that box. I guess doing so would effect the dial output values.
Right. More cable = more resistance = less pump output. I wonder how much resistance is in the cable now, though, and if shortening it would cause the BAP to drive more voltage to the pump than it ordinarily would.
Worst case scenario I could measure the resistance of the length of cable and just solder a resistor in if necessary.
I just confirmed with Kenne Bell tech support that the methodology I described above will work. When the control cable is jumpered or shorted to itself the output signal is the same as having the control dial turned all the way up.
They haven't responded to my email regarding cable length, though. I guess they don't really need to -- I can just cut the control cable short, measure the resistance of the segment that I cut off, and use an appropriately sized resistor instead of electrical wire as the jumper.