As topic says, someone who have tryed this cam? Im thinking about it. I want 650 rwhp! Camspecs are, 228-232, 581/581 on a 115 LSA.

Thanks!
Richard
Sweden

 

You really need to say what the application is. Turbo, Blower, n20?

The cam is a little big for FI (IMHO).

It has no overlap, but I would shoot for some negative overlap myself.

 

Ok, sorry about that.
I have ATI P1 twin IC, 7psi boost, headers and ported heads! I had a Thunder racing 224-224 561? on a 112LSA this summer and it worked great! But I want a real bad blower cam next summer! So I sold my TR cam last week.
BTW, I blowed the h..l out of one of my pistons last month! No Im going whith forged bottom end! I had 127 mph and 11,97 ET on that run. And 2,2 60 foot, that 60 foot sucks!

Thanks
Richard
Sweden

 

I had a cam installed almost just like what you mentioned about 6 weeks ago. Here is the post I made after it was installed and tuned:

Hi guys. Some of you have asked about the G1+ results, so here they are.

Cam Specs: 228 232 0.588 0.575 115

Also added springs, titanium retainers & hardened push rods. Double roller timing set going in this weekend.

Comparing the new chart at 6,400 RPM to the baseline chart at 6,400 RPM (6,400 is the old rev limit on the motor) I picked up ~75 RWHP.

Comparing at the new rev limit (6,700 RPM) to the old baseline at 6,400 RPM, I picked up ~95 RWHP.

Now, you might be saying, "Dang, that is a lot for a cam install." If you are, keep in mind that the car has been retuned on a mix of 93 octane and Torco at a ratio of 10 gallions of 93 to 1 quart of Torco. As such, we were able to run 4 degrees more timing advance. So that 4 additional degrees of advance is adding some additional HP that would not be there otherwise (with just cam install and 93 pump gas). I suspect if you want to try to back out the numbers, I would guess 4 - 5 RWHP per degree of advance, so knock off 16 - 20 RWHP to get a better apples to apples comparison. One other variable might be that the Racetronix and KB BAP were installed after the last dyno tune I had put on the car before the cam etc install, so the car might have been running a little fat for the baseline dyno pull (and hence a few less ponies in the baseline pull than might have been possible with a less rich mixture).

That would suggest that the cam was good for 55 - 59 RWHP comparing 6,400 RPM on the baseline to 6,400 RPM on the final chart. Or, 75 - 79 RWHP comparing the peak value at 6,400 RPM on the baseline to the 6,700 RPM peak value on the final chart (accounting for the valvetrain upgrade).

The final dyno run was done with an outside temperature of 94.8 degrees. There was zero knock retard across the board on all pulls we made. I have done a small amount of EFI live datalogging on the street, and have seen no KR. I plan to do more just to be on the safe side. My next mod is onboard wideband O2.

All other mods are in my signature. The car puts down ~570 to the rear steam rollers now.

Big Thanks to David Coates, Jayson Cohen, and Chris over at MTI for all their time and effort getting this set-up, installed and dialed in correctly. I took advantage of their "Cam-in-a-Box" deal and it has paid off.

 

Yes, thats the cam I want! Is G1+ the correct name? Are you still happy with that cam? Do you recomend me to go with that cam as well?

Richard

 

I'm not sure what they call it for sure. It is based on their G1 cam, which is the same cam I have, only the 'official G1' is on a 113 LSA and mine is on a 115 LSA since it is on a blower car. You can just tell MTI that you want the G1 on a 115 LSA and that will be the exact cam that I have (XER intake lobes and XE exhaust lobes).

I am still very happy with the cam. I have had good luck with it so far. The car idles at about 900 RPM, idles with the AC on no problem, and still gets 28 MPG on the highway at 70 MPH (and I have 4.11 gears, too). Just make sure you get some good springs, retainers, and push rods at the same time if you don't already have them. I also added a double roller timing chain for added insurance while they were in there. You will likely have to drill a small hole in your throttle body blade to get the idle right. MTI can tell you what size to start with.

Good Luck!

--Sean

 

Thanks for the info!
First I was thinking of a stage 2 cam from Andy (224-228 Comp X-ER with a115 LSA. Lift is .581) But this G1+ cam sounds better for me. I am going for tens next year! Have you tryed your car on the drag strip yet??

Richard