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Nitrous and Traction?

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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
cscollis's Avatar
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From: Frisco Texas
Default Nitrous and Traction?

Hi all!

I am thinking of putting a 75 shot on my heads/cam but have a few questions:

1. Right now at 400 rwhp I dont get any traction before second and get sideways on my 1st to second shift. I want to be able to use it in second but I am affraid it will only make me spin worse. (I run 305 nitto drag radials.)

2. I only run 22 degrees timing, any higher I get some knock retard. I have 53cc milled heads. I can use my HP Tuners to retard timing based on IAT. I plan to spray a dry shot in the air filter. How much fuel will I need to add?

3. I trap around 118 easing into the throttle,what do you think I would trap on a 75 shot?

I just need some reassurance before dropping another $1500 into my vette.

Thanks
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Old Nov 9, 2004 | 06:52 PM
  #2  
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From: Reynoldsburg oh
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Originally Posted by cscollis
Hi all!

I am thinking of putting a 75 shot on my heads/cam but have a few questions:

1. Right now at 400 rwhp I dont get any traction before second and get sideways on my 1st to second shift. I want to be able to use it in second but I am affraid it will only make me spin worse. (I run 305 nitto drag radials.)

2. I only run 22 degrees timing, any higher I get some knock retard. I have 53cc milled heads. I can use my HP Tuners to retard timing based on IAT. I plan to spray a dry shot in the air filter. How much fuel will I need to add?

3. I trap around 118 easing into the throttle,what do you think I would trap on a 75 shot?

I just need some reassurance before dropping another $1500 into my vette.

Thanks

Traction on the street will be non existant. At the track if you warm them up will be decent. You might wanna back the timing down a degree or 2. They say 1 degree per 50 hp on the juice. If you are trapping 118 now, I would say you will trap 124-125 with a 75 shot. Might be alittle more. I went from a 107 trap to a 121 trap with a 150 shot on my car.
HTH
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 08:13 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by sprayedc5
Traction on the street will be non existant. At the track if you warm them up will be decent. You might wanna back the timing down a degree or 2. They say 1 degree per 50 hp on the juice. If you are trapping 118 now, I would say you will trap 124-125 with a 75 shot. Might be alittle more. I went from a 107 trap to a 121 trap with a 150 shot on my car.
HTH
Nice torque number. Thats a awesome time for just a 150 shot. I run 11.6-11.9 NA on a high 1.7 to low 1.8 60 foot. I want to run high 10's but mostly want the spray for highway street races. I barely beat a E55 from 60-130. I want to have the insurance of a small shot to able to beat a single supra and other high hp cars. I just dont want to spin the tires at 60 mph. It would be a waste to spray only in third gear after 90 mph.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 09:05 AM
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ICULUKN-C5
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From: Arizona
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rule of thumb is you should get 1 sec and 10 mile/hour in the 1/4 off a 100 shot. That is in a perfect world where you get traction. I would say short shift 2md gear to get traction. If you are getting knock already I would definitly retard timing on the sauce.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 10:11 AM
  #5  
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FWIW,
With what you already have you need to tub & stuff




One for the street and one for the strip, then you will have traction
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Old Nov 13, 2004 | 06:13 PM
  #6  
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From: Melbourne FL
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Wow! That 345/35 is a pretty tall tire. I use the Toyo RA1 (World Challenge GT tire) in a 335/30x18 and, along with the DTE rear diff. strut brace, I have very little traction problems on the street in any gear. I have an MTI Stage 2E heads (on LS6 motor) with their C1 cam, 11.0:1 compression, and TNT 125hp wet kit making 600 rwtq. One tip,... you might as well tub the car out or else get a 17" wheel and mount 17" ET Streets (in 10.5" series) for the strip. The funny thing about tubbing a car is this: you do it to fit wider tires on the car for more lateral grip, not forward grip. If you want forward grip, you go with a taller tire, lower the air pressure, and compensate for it by using a higher numerical gear in your differential. I got my 335 tires (on Hickock wheels) for autocrossing, not drag racing. The Hickocks are the lightest wheels on the market for the C5/Z06 and I'm still 5 pounds heavier than a stock rear Z06 wheel/tire combo. Sometimes guys bolt on big, wide wheels and tires and hook up only because they added a substantial amount of rotational weight to the corners. Multiple the extra weight by 10 to get the effective addition of weight to the car. So think it through before you solve your problem with simply wider tires for going straight. Just my $0.10 worth!
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