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I have heard that some people have a hard time removing the 24MM bolt holding the balancer to the crank. I have an A4 and its up on jack stands, so the tires are not contacting the ground. (tires are off) If I have the tranny in park, and try to remove this bolt with a long breaker bar, will I be able to get the bolt out without damaging anything?? Is there a better way to remove this bolt on an A4 tranny??
I have heard that some people have a hard time removing the 24MM bolt holding the balancer to the crank. I have an A4 and its up on jack stands, so the tires are not contacting the ground. (tires are off) If I have the tranny in park, and try to remove this bolt with a long breaker bar, will I be able to get the bolt out without damaging anything?? Is there a better way to remove this bolt on an A4 tranny??
Thanks in advance
You should be able to get it with a breaker bar. I used a breaker bar going out the top about 3' high, and had a friend underneath the car holding it on the bolt. We got it eventually, but it wasn't easy.
What tool did you use to get on it? The rack and pinion is in the way. I have to remove the entire rack and pinion to get to the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Easiest way is with air tools. My bolt broke free after only a few seconds of blasting it with my run of the mill impact wrench.
You can get some relatively inexpensive compressor/tool sets for around $250 now (that's about what I bought mine for with compressor, impact wrench, die grinder and air ratchet). God bless Campbell Hausfeld
The steering rack needs to be unbolted along with the tcm. I used a large prybar to move the rack high enough to remove the bolt. I first tried an impact to remove the bolt with no luck. I finally had to put a little heat on the head and the impact took it right off. I replaced the bolt with a new one just to be safe.
I have heard that some people have a hard time removing the 24MM bolt holding the balancer to the crank. I have an A4 and its up on jack stands, so the tires are not contacting the ground. (tires are off) If I have the tranny in park, and try to remove this bolt with a long breaker bar, will I be able to get the bolt out without damaging anything?? Is there a better way to remove this bolt on an A4 tranny??
Thanks in advance
With an A4 you won't be able to just keep it in park. The torque converter will let the motor turn. You need a flywheel lock. This requires removing the starter and installing the lock in its place. Or if you don't mind scarring the block, you can have a friend jab a screwdriver into the flywheel while you break the bolt free. I used the flywheel lock and and removed the steering rack, used a breaker bar with the tube handle from the floor jack to get more leverage and at 3-4 foot of pipe I was able to loosen it from the top side of the car. It is time consuming but it is the only way to do the job correctly. When you remove the rack, disconnect the high pressure lines that connect to the rack. You can get at them thru the driver's side wheel well (13mm). Have fun and take your time. remember, the journey is half the fun.
Trust me on this. I don't know how, but I overlooked that part and it never torqued down right. On the dyno, the crank bolt came loose, started backing out, which started backing the crank pulley out. That made the belt slip off the tenioner, and the belt would not line back up. It was a major PITA that could have been prevented.
Thank you all for your advice. I will NOT re use the bolt.
If I were to insert a screwdriver into the flywheel, does it go into a hole in the flywheel, or am I jamming it into the teeth. Hopefully not the teeth.....
I guess I could put the rear wheels on and lower it back down to the ground and block the tires. Just makes the journey longer, but its winter and working on the car is so much fun.
I agree 100%. Sounds like he's gonna do a fair amount of work on the car in the winter, might as well get an air compressor, air ratchet, and impact wrench and make the job much easier.
Just be sure to ONLY use the impact when you're removing bolts, and when putting bolts back in ALWAYS thread by hand at least 4-5 threads, then gently use the air ratchet (i.e., not full pressure).
I have a decent impact wrench(~600ft lbs) and it could not get my bolt to brake loose. A 4ft braker bar from up top is the way I always do it.
I borrowed a wicked impact from a friends shop, but I didn't have the power from the air compressor to back it up, so out came the good old breaker bar.
I have a decent impact wrench(~600ft lbs) and it could not get my bolt to brake loose. A 4ft braker bar from up top is the way I always do it.
Was that the factory crank bolt? Maybe mine was easier because it's a non-GM crank and the bolt was less than 4 months old -- it literally only took a few seconds to blast off.
Thanks again. I have a compressor and impact driver, and will surely try this first. Maybe add a little heat also, and if this works, wonderful. If not, then its pry bar time. I just don't feel good about locking up the flywheel and putting all that torque with a pry bar on the flywheel with a screwdriver or a piece of metal wedged in there. Guess I shouldn't be??