I'm gonna be in the Market in July for possibly a C5.I need to know if any early models,97',98',99' (they fit my budget) were "First Models" and more problem prone and one should stay away from???
As you know, the First Model of any car... there's "Bugs" to be had.

Thanx

 

00 JD Power winnner. Its the best year.

 

There were changes made in 01 (345 to 350) and more options became available. But 97-99s are still great cars. You might find one that has already had any bugs worked out of it, too.

 

Jeeeeez, they need to put this one on a sticky at the top.

No, the 97's were very reliable. The only real downside to an earlier model vette (IMO) is that some options like active handling and HUD weren't available.

For more detailed info:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=984927

 

But I'm prejudiced.

 

99 first year for Hud

 

Bought a 98 Vert some 18 months ago. It's such a piece of junk being a "first year' car, you know. I think I'll keep it a few more years I'd hate to "stick" anyone with it. Geez, I suffer every time I drive it. I get this facial deformity...some call it permagrin.

I was thinking of getting a c6 vert but, dang it would be a first year model.

 

I know what you mean. I drive my '98 everyday, rain or shine, just to run it into the ground. Then on weekends I have to wash and polish it, what a pain

 

IMHO 01 and up due to the LS6 block and intake.

 

Congrats on making the move Dennis. You won't be disappointed. I paid $27500 for my '01 with everything on it (1SC package) a little over a year ago. I looked at quite a few in New Orleans and Baton Rouge. I looked at a '98 in good condition for $17,500, but it had 79000 miles.

Be patient and get what you want.

Nitro

 

Here's some stuff I have gotten from this forum. Not sure who posted it though. Sorry!!

1997

Completely new, redesigned Corvette. Base (FE1) and Z51 (FE3) suspension packages.
All Z51 cars include: Power Steering Cooler, xx, xx, ??
97-00 C5 LS1's produce 345 HP @ 5600 RPM and 350 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1998

Convertible becomes available
Active Handling becomes available late in year
The two slots of a 1998 (and possibly late 1997s) curve toward the rear at the bottom. (versus straight down)

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1999

26# injectors substituted for 28#
Fuel pump revised to reduce noise
FRC "Fixed Roof Coupe" aka the hardtop, becomes available. All FRC's are MN6 (6-speed) cars with the Z51 suspension package, and are about 60lbs lighter than coupes.
HUD introduced
only one line in driver's side fuel rail cover (no fuel return line?)
Power telescoping wheel becomes an option
? Steering hardware changed to combat wandering
door sill trim plates added

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2000

Millennium Yellow available
? "Thin Spoke" versus "wagon wheel" design wheels become standard.
Pup cats added to CA models for LEV emissions requirements (5hp loss relative to 97-99)
Steel swaybar endlinks instead of plastic on Z51 equipped cars
Z51 swaybar diameters grow (25.4/21.7 to 28.6/21.7 to 28.6/23.6 (note: new rear same as Z06)
No keyhole on passenger side doorhandle
Passenger airbag 'off' switch added to console (light by TC/AH button)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2001

return to 28# injectors for all models.
Second Generation Active Handling
Nassau Blue discontinued
Alternator 'clutch' pulley added on A4 cars
New soundproofing + foam in all cars
Smaller keyfob
electrochromic dimming rearview and driver's mirrors
lighter AGM battery
Thickness + Material in vert change
Chrome exhaust tips for coupe + vert
85MM MAF with integral temp sensor (versus 74mm with separate plug for IAT)
LS1 cam profile changed to: .500/0.500, 198/208 on 115.5LSA (From: 0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117)
All Corvettes now have the LS6 intake manifold
All Corvettes now have the LS6 engine block (windage passages in block), which includes a beefier oil pump.
LS1 changes result in new output of 350 HP @ 5200 RPM and 375 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM (MN6)
Hardtop/FRC discontinued
Pup cats added to all models
Stronger synchros in all transmissions
Exhaust manifolds revised (5hp regained) - thin wall cast replacing SS manifolds
metal valvestem caps (late year)
Torque Tube changed from metal-matrix composite to aluminum alloy 6061, increased in dia from 55 to 63 mm.
Driveshaft couplings have also been upgraded on manual-equipped models for additional strength and durability
Introduction of the Z06, which has as differences:
hardtop body style
rear brake ducting
screened inlets on front fascia, without foglights
F1 supercar tires 265-17 front, 295-18 rear, on 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 (one inch wider, respectively
new LS6 top-end with new style head design (10.5:1 compression, 64cc chamber), LS6 cam (0.525/0.525, 204/211 on 116) - 385hp
M12 transmission with shorter gearing (1-2-3 analagous to MN6 with 3.90 rear diff
Titanium exhaust system
lightweight windshield
New, stronger clutch with redesigned master + slave cylinder
Stronger rear differential (shotpeened ring gear)
Red brake calipers (otherwise identical)
Trans overtemp warning light on DIC
6500 redline gauges with special checkering + Z06 font
redesigned PCV system to help combat oil burning
Red LS6 Fuel Rail Covers (FRC's)
FE4 Z06 suspension - uprated springs, bars (30mm/23.6mm), shocks (note front spring and rear bar same as Z51)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2002

Z06 Changes:
Z06 LS6 cam changed to: 0.551/0.547, 204/218 on 117.5
Less restrictive intake airbox lid
Descreened MAF
Removal of pup-cats (total with changes = 405hp)
Z06 shocks revised with less rebound for better launching
Z06 brake pads revised for better stopping (generate more dust)
Lighter, sodium filled valves w/ stronger valvesprings
higher tension rings installed to prevent oil burning problems
slight piston redesign *
clutch strength upgraded.
HUD available on Z06 (not avail '01 model year)
Wheel supplier changed to Speedline, moved from forged to cast. Weight nearly identical
Electron Blue color offered
Steel endlinks changed to aluminum

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2003

Late model-year new fuel system design from C6's

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2004
· Z06 shocks further refined. Accompanying upper front control arm bushing, and rear swaybar bushing changes.

 

Here's some more good stuff that I have saved. This forum is the best. I hope this helps you out.



Used C5 Buyer's Checklist

Check for the rocking seat, leaky rear end, headlight motors, and if it is a 6-speed get the column lock bypass kit if it is not installed already. After that, this should get you started

Documentation available? Window Sticker Build Sheet
Are maintenance records available?
Who maintained the car and where
Are maintenance or upgrade receipts available?
How many previous owners have there been?
Can the former owners be contacted?

Is it currently registered?
Does it have a current inspection sticker?
Will it pass state inspection?
Are there any modifications?
If equipped with standard transmission, has the clutch ever been replaced? If so, what mileage?
Has the car ever been in an accident or had bodywork done?
Has the car been kept garaged?
What have been the average driving conditions? (Sun only, rain, snow?)
Does the car need anything now?

Body Condition
1. Does the car sit level?
2. Check body panels for uniformity.
3. Check for body damage. Look at: Wheel wells, floor pan, rear hatch front and rear valance, fenders, quarter panels, uniform body molding. Check for paint over-spray in: headlights, gas door, door jams, fender skirts, engine compartment?. Is there evidence of body damage?
4. Is the paint oxidized
5. Has the car ever been repainted?
6. If so, why, by whom, and how long ago?
7. Does sides of the car appear aligned?
8. Are there any waves or stress cracks in the fiberglass?
9. Are there any dings or stone chips in the paint?
10. Are there any cracks or chips in the windshield or side and rear glass?
11. Do the doors open and close normally?
12. Do the doors and trunk lock and unlock correctly with the key?
13. Do the doors and trunk (if applicable) lock/unlock correctly with remote key FOB
14. Does the rear hatch glass open properly? From inside?
15. Do the struts hold the rear hatch?
16. Does the hood release work?
17. Does the color match the trim tag color code?
18. Are there missing badges, or moldings?

Chassis & Suspension
1. Are the tires in good condition?
2. Is tire wear uniform.
3. Are the wheels stock?
4. Are the wheels in good condition?
5. Are the brake rotors in good condition? (check for cracks or scarring)
6. Are there any wet spots under the car?
7. Are the rubber axle boots in good condition?
8. Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints.
9. Inspect the shocks. Dry Wet If the shocks appear to be wet, they may be leaking and in need of repair.
10. Is the exhaust in good condition?

Interior Condition
1. Are all door, hatch, and top seals in good condition?
2. (If applicable) Is the ratchet wrench for the targa top there?
3. Are the seats clean? Torn or cracked? Worn?
4. xxxxx
5. Is the carpet clean? Worn?
6. Can you adjust the mirrors?
7. Does the interior light work? Does it work with the doors?
8. Is the dash in good condition?
9. Is the center console in good condition?
10. Does the glove compartment door work properly?
11. Do the windshield wipers function properly?
12. Does the overall interior condition match the mileage?
13. If equipped, does the tilt wheel work properly?
14. If equipped does the alarm work?

Engine Evaluation
1. Is the oil clean? Dark or black colored oil indicates a change is necessary and may be indicative of past maintenance trends.
2. When was the last oil change? ______________ Overdue?
3. Check for a leaking oil pan gasket.
4. Check for a leaking front/rear main seal.
5. Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.
6. Check all coolant lines for leakage.
7. Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing.
8. Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking.
9. Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking.
10. Inspect the brake fluid for color. Black colored brake fluid indicates a change is necessary.
11. Is the air filter clean?
12. Is the engine bay clean and neat? All hoses / wiring in correct place?

Engine Operation
1. Does the car start properly?
2. The car should have a steady idle.
3. (If equipped) Check the ECM (computer)? Engine Codes recorded?
4. Is the oil pressure normal?
5. Engine coolant temperature: Normal? 6. Is there valve chatter or excessive engine noise? Yes No
7. Is there excessive engine vibration at idle or revving? (can indicate bad motor mount).
8. With the engine running, listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds and exhaust.
9. Does the heat work?
10. Does the AC work? Is the compressor quiet?
11. Does the AC / heater blow at each speed?
12. Does the radio work properly (tape and CD if applicable)?
13. If equipped, does the power antenna work?
14. If equipped, do the power windows and door locks work?
15. Does the defroster work properly?
16. Do all ***** / controls function correctly?
17. Do all of the gauges / dashboard lights work properly?

Test Drive Evaluation
1. Does the parking brake work properly?
2. How does the brake pedal feel?
The following 3 questions assume manual transmission:
3. How does the clutch pedal feel? Firm Soft
4. Does the clutch operate in a smooth quiet manner?
5. Does the shifter seem tight?
6. Are there any squeaks / noises (specially over rough roads)?
7. Is the steering smooth and responsive?
8. When going straight is the wheel straight? Does the car drift to one side?
9. Brake with your hands off the wheel does the car stop straight?
10. At highway speeds does the car pull, or shake / shimmy?
11. Does the cruise control work properly?
12. Is there exceptional wind noise?
13. If equipped, does the ABS system function properly?
14. If equipped, does the Traction control system function properly?
15. If equipped, does the Selective Ride Control function properly?

Miscellaneous
1. Is the battery in good condition?
2. Do all lights / signals work correctly? Headlights (high and low beams)?, Brake lights? Parking/Side Marker Lights? Turn Signals?

 

 

If I could push a magic button and make my C5 and 2001, I would. That said, it's not a big deal and honestly...when I'm being thrown back in my seat I could give a flying **** what year my car is

 

I have a 98 - (first year convertible), and to tell you the truth, I've never owned a more reliable car than this one. Sure it doesn't have HUD, but it does have active handling. It may not have the LS6 intake that the newer ones have - but it's mine and I wouldn't trade it for 10 C6's! I love this car!

The common advice around these parts is to buy the lowest mileage newest car you can afford - regardless of the model year. I believe that's good advice!

 

Damn happy with my '97 at just a shade under 53,000 on the clock.(I've put 23,000 miles on it including two 2500 mile trips to Bowling Green and back.)

 

As stated in a couple of post above me. Go with the newest year that you can afford

 

As pointed out above, it's more an issue of what new features that were introduced in later years are important to you versus the cost of the newer models. It's crazy to worry about early model bugs because surely by now the previous owner/s would have had all those bugs addressed.

 

Good luck on your search! You'll really like the C5!