Bose Stereo.JUNK
The Alpine MRV-F450 supplies 50W RMS to each of the four corners and 200W RMS to the Sub (speakers are at 4 ohms, Sub firing at 2 ohms). I have full fader/balance control. I replaced the rear speakers with Sony XS-V1635X (6.5" 3-way speaker). The fronts were replaced in the doors by Sony XS-D170SI (6.75" component woofer) with electronic crossover, and 1" tweeters mounted to the A-pillars. The installer had to create a mounting plate (ABS plastic) for the door speakers because the stock unit was so much larger. Total cost of components: $500 Total cost of the install: $250.
The stock system wasn't bad...but it left a lot of room for improvement. I've installed competition-level systems in cars before, and I've noticed that mediocre speakers in stock stereos were often overcome by high-tech amps and DSP's (Bose is probably the best example of this). I'm not into sound pressure level...I like quality sound in a car, and the Bose system couldn't achieve that. The speaker placement was all wrong (door mounted subs that rattled the door components that sounded like distortion), 3" mid/highs directly above the source of the lows (sound cancelling occurs when this is done), and the rears.....does anyone ever hear their rears? I couldn't without fading, and then you lost the bass. The EQ curves of the DSP were all wrong for the car.
When you listen to the system now, you can hear instruments and aspects of the music that were missed listening to it in the stock system. You don't have to turn up the volume to hear clean bass, and at modest levels the music is clearer and more powerful than the stock system could ever reproduce.
The only impressive piece of the stock system was the 8" door mounted subs. That much bass from zero enclosure volume was incredible. The dynamic range of the sub was also impressive. The placement and the DSP is probably what is holding it back.
To each his own. A flat eq response 18hz - 120 hz is fine for a home subwoofer system, however, you want car subs normally to stop at 60hz - 80hz; above that is midrange and highs. The crossover on the amp is excellent for designing the sound to the car. I enjoy the hell out of the car even more than I did before.
I left the head unit in for three reasons: It is not such a bad unit when all it is doing is directing signals, my iPod is controlled by the CD changer interface, and it still looks stock, but damn-sure-hell doesn't sound stock.
And BTW, I installed the SLP Power-flo Cat-back exhaust first.
Sorry this reply was so long.
And in case you're wondering, you can switch input and turn the fader into a subwoofer volume control, and actually shake neighboring cars...if you're into that.
"The wires you want are described in an article posted to the Tech Section of the CorvetteActionCenter site. Here are some pertinent parts:
Bose CD/Cassette Stereo System Info:
The C5 Bose stereo system is based on a modified Delco head unit. The
"Delco/Bose" head unit, CD or casssette, has four connectors called C1, C2, C3 and C4 on the rear panel. C1/C2, which is a single siamese connector, is used for all Delco head units, not just Bose. C1/C2 carry power, ground, BCM data and the front and rear speaker wires. Connectors C3 and C4, provide interfaces to the head unit front/rear pre-amp outputs and front/rear power amp inputs. The pre-amp's audio outputs on connector C4 go to the BOSE Signal Processor, BSP,
mounted above the throttle. The BSP "conditions" the front/rear audio signals and then sends them right back to the head unit internal 4 channel power amp.
Wiring info:
The following are the Bose head unit 4 channel pre-amp outputs
Signal CD/Radio Color code
LF out C4(9) TAN/BLK
RF out C4(10) LT GRN/BLK
LR out C4(11) BRN
RR out C4(12) DK BLU
Common C4(13) LT BLU, DO NOT USE FOR EXTERNAL POWER AMP
Shield C4(14) Bare wire OR Ground C4(15) BLK
You can use these to tap into the output of the Delco HU before it feeds the signal processor. You would connect one RCA wire to C4(9) (center conductor) and C4(14) (braided shield), and the other to C4(10) (center) and c4(14) (shield). You could also use the rear outputs, but then when you wanted more bass from the subwoofer, you'd also get more sound from the rear speakers. This would screw the imaging up even more than it is already from the poor system design."
Here is a link to the entire string if you are interested:
http://corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61804
Last edited by jhiiidoc; May 2, 2005 at 08:33 PM.







