[Z06] 2001 oil consumption problem
I should be able to tell you in a couple of days. My 01 went in on monday for the ring job. Fortunately, mine will be covered by warranty, but the dealer usually tells me what it would have cost. My recollection is that the intake valley repair would have cost me $1500-2000 w/o the warranty
What I found from several very knowledgeable people was that the rings in the 01's were made out of an extremely hard material that couldn't seat properly from the low friction synthetics during casual street driving (even with infrequent drag racing). The car really needed to be run hard at high RPM for the rings to finally seat properly. Most people will never run their car on a road race track like I have, and therefore GM could not allow cars to burn oil at the pace they were on the street. I was told by an engine builder that this will actually work to my benefit, as the softer rings won't hold up to race track driving as well. Here's the amazing thing...I mean the car now after a few years of HPDE's barely even burns a 1/4 of a quart between oil changes. At the time I bought the car, it would burn over 3 quarts every 1500 miles
just make sure the 01 has a good warranty..if not i would'nt be in a rush to get it-and i own an 01..
the previous owner should know-like i said in the other thread i get about 1400-1800mi/qt now after the valley cover seal /breather replacement..but per an article in corvette mag..the one with the red ZR1-it covers this issue quite well, from 99-2002 all ls1 and ls6 had the same ring issue with #2 cylinder..and some of those engines will consume a lot of oil-especially if you drive it about 3200rpm with extended times such as tracking /racing the car and deceleration from about 3200..and the problem is more obvious with 6spds..and we drive our Z's ,but its with ls1's too ,my 00'Z28 camaro had the iconsumption issue too..pic of my Z
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showt...1&page=1&pp=15
good luck on your purchase and be a wise buyer.....
What I found from several very knowledgeable people was that the rings in the 01's were made out of an extremely hard material that couldn't seat properly from the low friction synthetics during casual street driving (even with infrequent drag racing). The car really needed to be run hard at high RPM for the rings to finally seat properly. Most people will never run their car on a road race track like I have, and therefore GM could not allow cars to burn oil at the pace they were on the street. I was told by an engine builder that this will actually work to my benefit, as the softer rings won't hold up to race track driving as well. Here's the amazing thing...I mean the car now after a few years of HPDE's barely even burns a 1/4 of a quart between oil changes. At the time I bought the car, it would burn over 3 quarts every 1500 miles

What are the potential problems with not fixing it??
I first purchased my car and after 1000 miles I got low oil level.......well I babied it for a while and had no issues , but that was no fun...So I started driving the old way again....I was getting about 1500 miles before the light and this has been the last couple oil changes. Talked to my dealer and he said no problem....bring it in next time and they will fix it....Well I have been driving the **** out of it and I have gone 1700 miles AND NO LOW OIL !!!! I am sitting on a pair of headers waiting to get my warranty workdone and I am getting impatient
Shawn
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I went through 4 oil changes and oil level readings at the dealer and then they put in new rings. It runs stronger then every and uses a quart in 3000 miles now.
Jim
SmacZ; plenty of prob.'s can come from burning that much oil and coating your internals from ignition to oil pump to cat and more...
What I found from several very knowledgeable people was that the rings in the 01's were made out of an extremely hard material that couldn't seat properly from the low friction synthetics during casual street driving (even with infrequent drag racing). The car really needed to be run hard at high RPM for the rings to finally seat properly. Most people will never run their car on a road race track like I have, and therefore GM could not allow cars to burn oil at the pace they were on the street. I was told by an engine builder that this will actually work to my benefit, as the softer rings won't hold up to race track driving as well. Here's the amazing thing...I mean the car now after a few years of HPDE's barely even burns a 1/4 of a quart between oil changes. At the time I bought the car, it would burn over 3 quarts every 1500 miles

The ring material for all Gen 3 V8s is cast iron and did not change from 1997 to 2004. Cast iron cannot be described as "extremely hard" though it is harder than, say, aluminum, pot metal and the types of iron typically used for rings might be somewhat harder than other cast irons used for, say, skillets or some cast iron engine blocks.
The statements that stock rings have to be run hard for some period of time to "seat" in engines using synthetic oil and that these rings in engines which are driven casually do not seat properly is total
The problem with the 01 LS6, and to some extent 97-01 LS1s, which caused high oil consumption was a combination of 1) a crankcase breather design which is marginal at best for proper oil-air seperation when PCV flow reverses at WOT, 2) the narrow ring faces favored by car companies in the last decade or so 3) a low tension oil ring expander, 4) frequent use at high rpm and 5) a low-viscosity 5W30 oil.
The solutions to oil use which is in the 400-600 miles per quart range that is symptommatic of the high oil consumption problem discussed in GM TSB01-06-01-023A are: 1) a new second compression ring with a "Napier" type scraper face, 2) a new, higher-tension oil ring expander and 3) (on some LS6es only) a new valley cover.
02-04 LS6es had #1 and #2 at start-of-production MY02 They got #3 sometime in MY02. 02-04 LS1s got #1 and #2 about two weeks into MY02 production.
An additional solution, not discussed in the TSB, is a switch to a better quality "premium" synthetic oil (such as Red Line) and a viscosity increase to either 10W30 or even 10W40.
Slightly more oil pressure once the oil temp gets past 225. Noticeably better oil pressure when oil temp gets up around 250.





















