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Knee Pad Removal

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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 12:13 AM
  #1  
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Default Knee Pad Removal

Well I was all primed to put the CLB bypass in yesterday but got shut down by the bloody knee pad. After removing all the screws/components etc. the directions called out, no amount of tugging or pulling or twisting, would convince it to 'pop' loose as the directions suggested it would do. I figured if I put any more pressure on it about the only thing I'd accomplish would be to crack or break the panel.

As much as I want to get this CLB installed, I'm not to excited about the prospect of having to buy a new piece if I butcher the original. So the next move is to see if anyone out there has a diagram or picture of what the backside of knee panel attaching system looks like, and would be willing to either post it on the forum or get it to me by email. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 12:35 AM
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Did you try this link for some guidance?

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=24

..rickko..
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 12:44 AM
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CLB Install Click on the small pics for a full size image. Hope this helps!
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 09:08 AM
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Boy that procedure looks a lot more complicated than previously advertised. Anyone else done this and can you comment on the procedure and how difficult this is. I am about to order the CLB, but am not confident I can install it.

thanks,

Dan
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 09:15 AM
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Here's a link to some instructions from Vette Essentials that might help.
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...zel_howto.html
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by charlie78
After removing all the screws/components etc. the directions called out, no amount of tugging or pulling or twisting, would convince it to 'pop' loose as the directions suggested it would do. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
That was the most nerve racking part for me too. The clip on the upper left part of the panel just did not want to release.

There is a wedge shaped, spring steel, clip that snaps into a rectangular slot in the dash, and if fits really tight.
I finally was able to locate the clip on the back side of the dash from underneath and squeeze the clip to get it to slide through the slot.
I have since removed it a couple of times more, and now know that if you pull straight out, it probably will not break anything. The clip will most likely come off of the knee pad and leave the clip in the dash before it will break anything. The clip just slides onto a tap on the knee pad, and has little barbs that dig into the plastic tab to keep it on, but if you pull hard enough, the clip will come off the tab.
If you use firm steady pressure on the knee pad, it should come loose.

You did remove the last torx head screw that is behind the trunk release switch panel, right?

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jun 21, 2005 at 09:23 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 12:25 PM
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I had the same issue with the clip coming loose. Did not notice it, and was getting a rattle for 2 weeks, until I took it apart.

Also, make sure you have a scratch awl/ice pick so you can align the two under-dash screw holes with the speed nuts. They tend to move, and/or fall out when you are removing the panel. Try not to poke your finger with the awl when aligning the holes. Don't ask me how I know!!!!
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 01:17 PM
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I had the same problem when installing mine. A well respected member here gave me a simple tip which worked great - just loosen the radio surround trim piece!!! I did it and the knee pad just about fell into my hand. Try it. It works.
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Net Exploit
Boy that procedure looks a lot more complicated than previously advertised. Anyone else done this and can you comment on the procedure and how difficult this is. I am about to order the CLB, but am not confident I can install it.

thanks,

Dan
Guess I was lucky, panel popped free with not too much effort, whole process took less than 30 minutes start to finish, the hardest part was twisting upsidedown to find the wiring harness. Also found I did not need to remove the air conditioning sensor, wire was long enough to pull panel out and just remove wiring to get lower panel loose.

Got my CLB from Corvettes of Houston. Install of CLB didn't require going into fuse panel. As my 12v accessory plug is always hot did not need to turn on ignition.

Last edited by Hot BluZ; Jun 21, 2005 at 02:55 PM.
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Old Jun 21, 2005 | 07:26 PM
  #10  
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I'm not sure I got this straight. Are there any years/VIN range etc.. that don't need this done?

Mine is not done and I'm considering it.

Thanks.
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Old Jun 22, 2005 | 09:40 AM
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Thanks to every one who responded. In addition to the mini instruction sheet that came with the CLB kit, I had also printed instruction from a web site that had pics. One of the sites recommended in response to my post was better yet. I hadn't realized that the upper left panel would also come off with the lower knee panel until I saw the pic with it still attached to it.

One of those lower captive speed nuts fell off during my first attempt. I thought that was pretty poor. A captive component that isn't! Here I've enough of a problem just getting the panels off and other crap is hitting the carpet.

Now all I need to do is muster up enough courage to dive in again. Maybe tomorrow.
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