Removable emblem
So now i figure i'll have to glue it back on or have holes in the nose (cool if i had NOS, could use them for a purge, but i dont). Neither one appealed, so i made it removable.
What i did, and what i would do if i had it to do over are two different things, but here's what i ended up doing. I cut about 3/4" off the end of the emblem post, and then split it with a razor (exacto actually). Then i trimmed the pieces i cut off to make a wedge that i jammed in the split of the post, all the way down to the base of the emblem. I'm going to secure the wedges with some glue - it took a couple test fits to get a wedge that would fit through the hole but still be secure. I also flexed the emblem a little to it would conform to the nose shape, but the coolest part is, it's now a friction fit! I can pop it off any time i want to wash or clean or whatever.
If i had it to do over, i would NOT split the post all the way, only from the emblem base up to make a 1" slot, and then wedge something in the split and glue it.
I've considered other options too, especially for the back. Like that stuff you can get to stick stuff to walls, and then you pull on it and it releases.
The biggest problem is having the ***** and the patience to get the emblem off with out scratching the clear coat. Patience has never been one of my virtues...
-Rich
Last edited by greggimbert; Jun 24, 2005 at 04:12 PM.
So now i figure i'll have to glue it back on
What you didn't search the forum first about emblem removal? You would have discovered the front emblem used alignment pins. The pins also keep the emblem from blowing off. The rear doesn't need pins because the air pressure is much less back there.
Never glue the emblems! You should use 3M double sided tape. That is what GM used.
Last edited by Shylor; Jun 24, 2005 at 04:21 PM.



Last edited by Zilla; Jun 24, 2005 at 04:37 PM.
i'll get them filled and have the nose repainted.Will try to get some pics up this weekend.
-Rich





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