Guess what? Another lowering question!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,973
Likes: 152
From: Somewhere in Dallas TX
Guess what? Another lowering question!
Took my car to a shop today and they told me that with cutting the front bushings, there is a possibility that the leaf spring would be damaged 6, 10, 12 months down the road when the cut bushing wears all the way down. He said that you can't replace just the bushing and bolt, that i'd have to replace the whole spring which is around $600! 
WhY is this the first i've heard of this?
WhY is this the first i've heard of this?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,319
Likes: 1
From: Lincoln Nebraska
Originally Posted by EMINENT 1
WhY is this the first i've heard of this?
Simply not the case and proven here by many many who have done the same...slam it and drive it like you stole it!
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: apple valley mn
lowering
I don't think you have to cut anything. Mallett has a C5 lowering kit that isn't an entire suspension kit - it just lowers the car while retaining the stock leaf springs. I did it 5 years ago on my '99; it dropped between 1 1/2 - 2"...go to: www.mallettcars.com.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
The bolt is threaded through the spring. The bushing (or lack of one) is the bottom of the bolts which presses down on the lower control arm. The spring position and tension remains the same, the only difference is how high it allows the control arm to rise (which is what lowers the car).
How is that going to damage the spring?
I'm not surprised the shop recommended against it - most will, just because generally speaking, "cutting things" is typically viewed as a butcher job in the lowering biz...but physically speaking, their explanation is pretty funny.
As for the Mallett kit mentioned above, that probably refers to the rear.
The front lowering (with the stock spring) is accomplished by reducing the distance between the control arm and the bottom of the spring. Assuming the bolts are spun all the way up, from there, all you can do to further lower is reduce the space between the bottom of the spring, and the control arm. That space is normally occupied with bushing. You can remove that, or remove the bolt completely, which allows the spring end to directly press on the arm....that is the lowest height you can possibly acheive with the stock spring, it's very simple.
No one makes a kit to reduce nothing into less, not even Mallett..
How is that going to damage the spring?
I'm not surprised the shop recommended against it - most will, just because generally speaking, "cutting things" is typically viewed as a butcher job in the lowering biz...but physically speaking, their explanation is pretty funny.
As for the Mallett kit mentioned above, that probably refers to the rear.
The front lowering (with the stock spring) is accomplished by reducing the distance between the control arm and the bottom of the spring. Assuming the bolts are spun all the way up, from there, all you can do to further lower is reduce the space between the bottom of the spring, and the control arm. That space is normally occupied with bushing. You can remove that, or remove the bolt completely, which allows the spring end to directly press on the arm....that is the lowest height you can possibly acheive with the stock spring, it's very simple.
No one makes a kit to reduce nothing into less, not even Mallett..
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: apple valley mn
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
The bolt is threaded through the spring. The bushing (or lack of one) is the bottom of the bolts which presses down on the lower control arm. The spring position and tension remains the same, the only difference is how high it allows the control arm to rise (which is what lowers the car).
How is that going to damage the spring?
I'm not surprised the shop recommended against it - most will, just because generally speaking, "cutting things" is typically viewed as a butcher job in the lowering biz...but physically speaking, their explanation is pretty funny.
As for the Mallett kit mentioned above, that probably refers to the rear.
The front lowering (with the stock spring) is accomplished by reducing the distance between the control arm and the bottom of the spring. Assuming the bolts are spun all the way up, from there, all you can do to further lower is reduce the space between the bottom of the spring, and the control arm. That space is normally occupied with bushing. You can remove that, or remove the bolt completely, which allows the spring end to directly press on the arm....that is the lowest height you can possibly acheive with the stock spring, it's very simple.
No one makes a kit to reduce nothing into less, not even Mallett..
How is that going to damage the spring?
I'm not surprised the shop recommended against it - most will, just because generally speaking, "cutting things" is typically viewed as a butcher job in the lowering biz...but physically speaking, their explanation is pretty funny.
As for the Mallett kit mentioned above, that probably refers to the rear.
The front lowering (with the stock spring) is accomplished by reducing the distance between the control arm and the bottom of the spring. Assuming the bolts are spun all the way up, from there, all you can do to further lower is reduce the space between the bottom of the spring, and the control arm. That space is normally occupied with bushing. You can remove that, or remove the bolt completely, which allows the spring end to directly press on the arm....that is the lowest height you can possibly acheive with the stock spring, it's very simple.
No one makes a kit to reduce nothing into less, not even Mallett..
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 16,477
Likes: 26
From: Gone
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03
If the bottom of the spring is directly touching the control arm, that is lowest you can go. How can inserting any sort of bushing between there lower it more?
I don't doubt they do some mods to lower "more than the stock adjustment allows", but the reality is the same net effect can be had in a half-hour with nothing more than a hacksaw. If there is ANY space beween the spring and a-arm, you will not get 2" lower in the front.
I've seen plenty of full-conversion Mallett cars, none of them sat lower than mine, and mine might barely be lowered 2".
You can differ all you'd like, you cannot overcome the laws of simple physics.
I don't doubt they do some mods to lower "more than the stock adjustment allows", but the reality is the same net effect can be had in a half-hour with nothing more than a hacksaw. If there is ANY space beween the spring and a-arm, you will not get 2" lower in the front.
I've seen plenty of full-conversion Mallett cars, none of them sat lower than mine, and mine might barely be lowered 2".
You can differ all you'd like, you cannot overcome the laws of simple physics.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 4,653
Likes: 6
From: North Royalton, OH
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Quite a story they told you... As stated above, all you are doing when lowering is reducing the distance between the control arm and the spring. Nothing there to wear out and no way that you will damage the spring. Once the wheels are off and you see what's there, you'll be pizzed that someone wanted to charge you money to do this.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: apple valley mn
Originally Posted by Y2Kvert4me
If the bottom of the spring is directly touching the control arm, that is lowest you can go. How can inserting any sort of bushing between there lower it more?
I don't doubt they do some mods to lower "more than the stock adjustment allows", but the reality is the same net effect can be had in a half-hour with nothing more than a hacksaw. If there is ANY space beween the spring and a-arm, you will not get 2" lower in the front.
I've seen plenty of full-conversion Mallett cars, none of them sat lower than mine, and mine might barely be lowered 2".
You can differ all you'd like, you cannot overcome the laws of simple physics.
I don't doubt they do some mods to lower "more than the stock adjustment allows", but the reality is the same net effect can be had in a half-hour with nothing more than a hacksaw. If there is ANY space beween the spring and a-arm, you will not get 2" lower in the front.
I've seen plenty of full-conversion Mallett cars, none of them sat lower than mine, and mine might barely be lowered 2".
You can differ all you'd like, you cannot overcome the laws of simple physics.
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