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My car got starter issue.
Bill here on the forum has helped me alots to trace out the issue.
Look like it is either my starter selenoid losen wires or it is the starter itself.
This has happened couple times in the past. It took me couple turns to start the car. The starter did not make any click sound and then on the third or 4th turn, it would start the car but not this time.
Bill has showed me to jumper the TDR wires (red and purple) and still no click. If it's clicked, it would be my ignition cylinder ...
So I am planning to check the starter selenoid and maybe replace the starter. However, I got welded longtube to the off-road pipes and the X-pipe as well . Last year, when I upgraded the heads, it was really hard to drop them down to get enough space to losen all the heads' bolts. So I am not sure with all that, will there be enough room for me to replace the starter?
NFW. You will definitely have to pull the pass. side header.
I changed my starter earlier this spring. I couldn't even SEE the starter until I got the (FLP) header out of the way.
Having to remove the passenger side header to access and replace the starter is very common. Also, as food for thought, you may even consider wrapping thermal wrap around the starter to protect it from the high temps of the header right next to it.
never understood why people did a complete weld ..
Now, I am mad at my muffler shop
They told me weld is the only way with no leak!
I found out it was pain in the a$$ when upgrade heads and now starter.
I will bring it to a shop to add a flange before replace the starter.
Need to push and pop te get it start now
-Mike
Now, I am mad at my muffler shop
They told me weld is the only way with no leak!
I found out it was pain in the a$$ when upgrade heads and now starter.
I will bring it to a shop to add a flange before replace the starter.
Need to push and pop te get it start now
-Mike
Definitely add flanges or some sort of bandclamp system to attach the headers to the ORP's so you won't have to deal with this hassle again.