proper way to keep engine bay clean?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,306
Likes: 773
From: Long Island NY
proper way to keep engine bay clean?
I have always kept my cars pristine in and out, all except for the engine bay. Thats one area I have never paid any attention too and never cleaned. I sold my WS6 TA a few months ago, and the only mild complaint I got about it was that the engine bay was dirty.
When I bought my Z06 the engine bay was nice and clean and I'd like to keep it that way, but I don't know where to start. i'd imagine spraying water on it and washing it with one of my DF Concours MF towels & car wash soap like I do the exterior is not the way to go
When I bought my Z06 the engine bay was nice and clean and I'd like to keep it that way, but I don't know where to start. i'd imagine spraying water on it and washing it with one of my DF Concours MF towels & car wash soap like I do the exterior is not the way to go
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,788
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From: Winchester TN
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'11
Hi kbreese -
I do the following - it was posted here a few years back by Mean Green (what ever happened to Mark anyway?)
There will probably be some folks who will poo-poo this method - but it has worked for me on all my cars with no problems at all - ever.
I would not do this on a LT5 or any opti-spark car. C5's are fine.
Here it is....
1. Spray down the engine compartment with the hose (I took off the fuel rail covers and made sure to get everything free of loose dirt and dust).
2. Then close the hood and start the car and let idle for about 5 minutes to warm it up and then shut it off.
3. Using Simple Green (Full Strength, no dillusion), amply spritz everthing you want clean.
4. Close the hood and go drink a beer (or in my case, wash the Fuel Rail covers with hot water and Dawn and let dry).
5. Next spray out the engine compartment completely.
6. Spray Armour All or equiv over those same surfaces. Avoid the belts and wiring. Use alot on the fender covers and the radiator shroud.
7. Close the hood and go and Spray Armour All on the Fuel Rail covers.
8. Open the hood and reinstall the Fuel Rail covers and your done.
Won't take more that 20 minutes and your engine will look like it just came off of the showroom floor.
That is it - and it works really well.
best regards -
mqqn
I do the following - it was posted here a few years back by Mean Green (what ever happened to Mark anyway?)
There will probably be some folks who will poo-poo this method - but it has worked for me on all my cars with no problems at all - ever.
I would not do this on a LT5 or any opti-spark car. C5's are fine.
Here it is....
1. Spray down the engine compartment with the hose (I took off the fuel rail covers and made sure to get everything free of loose dirt and dust).
2. Then close the hood and start the car and let idle for about 5 minutes to warm it up and then shut it off.
3. Using Simple Green (Full Strength, no dillusion), amply spritz everthing you want clean.
4. Close the hood and go drink a beer (or in my case, wash the Fuel Rail covers with hot water and Dawn and let dry).
5. Next spray out the engine compartment completely.
6. Spray Armour All or equiv over those same surfaces. Avoid the belts and wiring. Use alot on the fender covers and the radiator shroud.
7. Close the hood and go and Spray Armour All on the Fuel Rail covers.
8. Open the hood and reinstall the Fuel Rail covers and your done.
Won't take more that 20 minutes and your engine will look like it just came off of the showroom floor.
That is it - and it works really well.
best regards -
mqqn
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 21,532
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From: Cincinnati Ohio
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"Slower Azz Dog"
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09
I have done the above, but instead of armor all, I just spray the entire engine, belts and all with Tire Foam,
let it sit about 1/2 hour, wipe off any excess and it will look like new.
let it sit about 1/2 hour, wipe off any excess and it will look like new.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 1
From: Longview Texas
You and I have the same "concerns". With all the electronics under the hood of these cars, the thought of spraying high pressure water seems a little dangerous. Right now, I wipe everything down that I can get to with rags. By doing this regular, I can keep up. Among a number of suggestions from some of the members here, I've seen that some use Simple Green, let it soak for a while, then spray with water. Haven't tried it yet though. Thinking about trying it this weekend. Hope it starts afterwards.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 415
Likes: 0
From: near Austin Texas
Check around the board...
...I can't remember, but it seems like there were several questions about simple green being reactive with aluminum. Since I can't remember when/what post, I'll just point out it would be worth while to check this, even if I'm misremembering.
Edit: post of 10/27 same forum by REW89...lots of pros and cons on aluminum reactivity....why not just take a piece of scrap aluminum and leave in in whatever you're testing...might take a few months but should settle the question...before you spray your baby.
Edit: post of 10/27 same forum by REW89...lots of pros and cons on aluminum reactivity....why not just take a piece of scrap aluminum and leave in in whatever you're testing...might take a few months but should settle the question...before you spray your baby.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,788
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From: Winchester TN
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'11
Hi gordonb50 -
I too had the same concerns - so I left the engine running the first time I did this -
I try not to spray the alternator directly - but other than that, I just spray it down.
I don't use the armor all - just the simple green - it really makes the plastics look good - and when you run the engine up to to operating temps, it dries off very quickly -
Just be careful and you will be fine - and leave it running just as insurance if you want.
best regards -
mqqn
I too had the same concerns - so I left the engine running the first time I did this -
I try not to spray the alternator directly - but other than that, I just spray it down.
I don't use the armor all - just the simple green - it really makes the plastics look good - and when you run the engine up to to operating temps, it dries off very quickly -
Just be careful and you will be fine - and leave it running just as insurance if you want.
best regards -
mqqn
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Montana
I have long heard the simple green vs. aluminum concerns. About a year ago simple green came out with an "extreme simple green" which they say is aircraft approved. See http://corporate.simplegreen.com/corp_pres_18.php
I have used the product and it does a good job plus I no longer worry about whether I rinsed it well enough to prevent it reacting with aluminum in some spot I can't readily see.
I have used the product and it does a good job plus I no longer worry about whether I rinsed it well enough to prevent it reacting with aluminum in some spot I can't readily see.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,038
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07
First off, I always clean the engine everytime I wash the car. I have found
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too!
I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!!
I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too!
I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!! I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
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Here's what I do:
If the engine bay is clean to begin with, each time I wash the car I wipe down as much as I can with an Absorber - gets the dust layer off. Then if there is any grease, oil, etc, I use a rag with some Simple Green on it to get that off. Occasionally, I will take an air compressor with an air nozzle on it and blow off any remaining dust. Works like a charm.
If the engine bay is dirty, try spraying some Simple Green on the dirty parts, then gently rinsing with a little water. Using the air compressor to help with getting the water out of the little cavities will speed up the process.
If the engine bay is clean to begin with, each time I wash the car I wipe down as much as I can with an Absorber - gets the dust layer off. Then if there is any grease, oil, etc, I use a rag with some Simple Green on it to get that off. Occasionally, I will take an air compressor with an air nozzle on it and blow off any remaining dust. Works like a charm.
If the engine bay is dirty, try spraying some Simple Green on the dirty parts, then gently rinsing with a little water. Using the air compressor to help with getting the water out of the little cavities will speed up the process.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,396
Likes: 2
From: North Manchester Indiana
I use whats called Beaver Kleen,,,,yes,, they also have beaver slick..
best darn de-greaser I ever seen. Simple green will work also
Spray on a COLD engine, and rinse off in about 30 seconds if light dirt..
I ues a pressure washer and a leaf blower to dry. then either silicone spray or armour all ,, tire foam works good also.
I use a corrosion inhibitor on the bare alum parts ( LPS or german stuff I get a cycle shop).....
I like a clean engine....
best darn de-greaser I ever seen. Simple green will work also
Spray on a COLD engine, and rinse off in about 30 seconds if light dirt..
I ues a pressure washer and a leaf blower to dry. then either silicone spray or armour all ,, tire foam works good also.
I use a corrosion inhibitor on the bare alum parts ( LPS or german stuff I get a cycle shop).....
I like a clean engine....
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'10
First I recommend getting a hood seal from one of the catalog houses. Don't believe the horsepower claims, but it does a nice job of keeping the dust and small debris down. Next, it is easier to keep it clean by a small amount of effort each time I was the car rather than trying to clean it once in a while. I use a towel and wipe it down with each wash as a little water always manages to make it's way in there. If I want to detail it a little better I use armor all cleaning and detailing wipes. Here's my 97's engine with 58,000 plus miles on it and I promise this has never seen a spray from a hose.
Paul
Paul
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 10,789
Likes: 894
From: Northern Illinois
Oldtimer
I've never driven mine in the rain or snow, so I've never had a grime build-up. I use a damp towel to wipe the dust off of everything and then use 303 on all the plastic/rubber parts
Racer
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Southern California Ca
Originally Posted by Vetteran
First off, I always clean the engine everytime I wash the car. I have found
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too! I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!!
I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too!
I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!! I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 12,071
Likes: 0
From: Hoover Alabama
Originally Posted by Vetteran
First off, I always clean the engine everytime I wash the car. I have found
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too! I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!!
I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too!
I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!! I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
I use simple green diluted 3:1 with water. No issues with aluminum at this strength. I cover the alternaor and battery area with gorcery store plastic bags and spray away with a pressure washer. I also make sure I spray the hood liner with simple green and give it a good rinsing witht he pressure washer.
If it is is warm sunny day, I just let it sit in the sun to dry. If it needs some help then either a leaf blower or air compressor will do.
I use aerospace 303 on the rubber and plastic
If it is is warm sunny day, I just let it sit in the sun to dry. If it needs some help then either a leaf blower or air compressor will do.
I use aerospace 303 on the rubber and plastic
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 41
From: Corinth TX
Originally Posted by Vetteran
First off, I always clean the engine everytime I wash the car. I have found
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too! I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!!
I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;
that dust and small debris is the biggest culprit in trying to keep a clean
engine compartment. I invested in a 4hp Metro Vac 'N' Blo that not only
sucks but it blows too!
I'm not kidding, this sucker moves some air now!! I start out with the vac, blow it out real good, then I wipe everything
down with a damp cloth. Takes about 10 minutes and its done! On occasion
I'll use 303 Aerospace cleaner to tackle oil and such. I'll also use their
protectant to protect/shine up the hoses.
I rest my case;