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on the inside: seafoam through the vaccuum line to the intake from the brake booster side of the line...
on the outside: use a new paintbrush, the ones you use when painting a room or your house, etc...
Changing plugs on a C5 is incredibly simple. You can get to all 8 from top of the engine and dont have to drop the starter or crawl under the car like I've had to do on a 4th gen F-Body.
Changing plugs on a C5 is incredibly simple. You can get to all 8 from top of the engine and dont have to drop the starter or crawl under the car like I've had to do on a 4th gen F-Body.
No problems.
Maybe it's just me, but I had an "incredibly" hard time getting my hands into the little spaces required to change the plugs and wires.
Clean engine: spray "Simple Green" on every thing - let sit for a little - wash everything off w/ a pressure washer - Now, take your leaf blower and blow off/out the entire engine compartment to remove the water beads completely.
Changing spark plugs: The back one on the drivers side (I believe it's number 7) can be a PIA due to cramped quarters, small space, etc. Some have suggested a special Snap on Flex spark plug socket for ease in changing that plug. Or perhaps a swivel socket. It can be done, just don't get in a rush.
Also, put anti-seeze compound on the spark plug threads before installing the new plugs into the heads.
Clean engine: spray "Simple Green" on every thing - let sit for a little - wash everything off w/ a pressure washer - Now, take your leaf blower and blow off/out the entire engine compartment to remove the water beads completely.
Changing spark plugs: The back one on the drivers side (I believe it's number 7) can be a PIA due to cramped quarters, small space, etc. Some have suggested a special Snap on Flex spark plug socket for ease in changing that plug. Or perhaps a swivel socket. It can be done, just don't get in a rush.
Also, put anti-seeze compound on the spark plug threads before installing the new plugs into the heads.
I agree. simple green is the best. spray it all over the engine compartment. let it sit for ten minutes out of sunlight and rinse off. it leaves the engine very clean and smelling great. use a leaf blower to dry the engine bay off completely. do this with the engine cold. hot engine parts can mean that you may short out electrical components when the cold water is used.
Also, as a helpful tip, be careful of sraying highly pressurized water over the electronics in the engine bay. In fact, trouble codes for failing knock sensors (commonly knock sensor number 2) which are located in the base of the intake manifold (on top of the engine), have been known to be thrown because of water collecting, rusting and damaging the seals around the perimeter of the air intake manifold knock sensors (refer to the TSB's) in this area, due to those who frequently spray wash their engines.
I would be very careful when puting the new plugs in. You don't want to cross thread them, and then you have a real nightmare.
BTW, I have a 98 that only has 13,000 miles. It doesn't go out in the rain or snow. The engine bay looks like new, I just wipe dust off with a towel. It has occurred to me, that even though it has so few miles and no dirt in the engine bay, if I should change the plugs anyway. I wouldn't want a problem taking the old ones out from being in there so long.
I just changed my plugs and wires on Sunday,#7 is a pita my right hand looks like I beat it with a meat clever.All the rest were easy to do.I have'nt washed my engine I just wipe it off when I detail the car,I have a hood seal that helps alot.
Maybe it's just me, but I had an "incredibly" hard time getting my hands into the little spaces required to change the plugs and wires.
Hard enough that I couldn't do it!!
What gives?
easy when compaired to an F-Body, but still a pain the the --- compaired to most cars.
it takes a little work and some bloody knuckles, but with the right combination of swivle sockets and extensions, you can get them all done, #7 is the worst (back driver's side). passenger side is pretty easy.