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You might want to post this in the FI/Nitrous group. This has been topic of much debate. I have a NX wet kit and if used correctly, it's safe. I have also had a dry kit on previous cars and it worked good as well. Whenever you add a power adder to you stock car, there's a chance something can go wrong. You might want to add what HP gains your expecting and it's use (track or street). -Ed
If done properly both kits can be safe. But i'm going to go out on a limb and say that the Wet kit does seem to be the standard. C5 Kidd, Fixed Roof, both are running wet kits...and my kit in my closet is also a wet kit.
C5 kidd is running a 90 shot and Fixed Roof...well, i don't think we're allowed to discuss how much he's running.
So is the wet kit added in the fuel through the fuel lines? The dry kit is sprayed in through the TB isn't it?
DRY kits are sprayed infront of the Mass Air Flow Sensor, and the car is supposed to recognize the added Nitrous and respond accordingly.
The MAF is infront of the Throttle Body. A Wet kit, has an extra Solenoid and injects FUEL with the nitrous via a nozel, either infront of the throttle body, or via direct port injection <a bit more expensive>.
My preference would be infront of the Throttle body, just as one last insurance.
When doing your nitrous, don't forget your Wide Open Throttle Switch, and your Window Switch.
A wet kit sprays nitrous and fuel through the intake where as a dry kit sprays nitrous only and the MAF will tell the injectors how much additional fuel is needed. How much are you planning to spray? 50, 75, 100, 150 shot?
A wet kit sprays nitrous and fuel through the intake where as a dry kit sprays nitrous only and the MAF will tell the injectors how much additional fuel is needed. How much are you planning to spray? 50, 75, 100, 150 shot?
I was thinking about 50 or 75. I am hoping it will work with my other mods. Now i have a Blackwing,ported TB,superchips,and a smooth coupler. My engine itself is stock. Just boltons.
If your going to spray 100 or less, a dry kit will work fine and should be cheaper. Anything over 100 I would say get a wet kit. I started with 100 shot and went to 150 the same day with no problems (except traction) a dry kit you will be limited to 100 or 125 shot.
If your going to spray 100 or less, a dry kit will work fine and should be cheaper. Anything over 100 I would say get a wet kit. I started with 100 shot and went to 150 the same day with no problems (except traction) a dry kit you will be limited to 100 or 125 shot.
Thats what i want I think. I guess I will do some checking on the dry system to see what kind of a deal I can get. Thanks
i've searched about this and i've read a post that was saying that if you hit the switch with a wet kit below 3000rpm that it can blow the intake manifold off the block...
i've searched about this and i've read a post that was saying that if you hit the switch with a wet kit below 3000rpm that it can blow the intake manifold off the block...
Which is why EVERY nitrous install should include an MSD window switch. And a WOT switch
Which is why EVERY nitrous install should include an MSD window switch. And a WOT switch
What is a window switch? I just bought a Z06 with H/C and a 100hp wet Zex system. The previous owner said that the system kicks in from 3500-6500 rpms. Is that what a window switch does?
The previous owner said that the system kicks in from 3500-6500 rpms. Is that what a window switch does?
Yes sir it is.
I'm familiar with two MSD systems<there could be more> One is operated by "pills" you select an on and off pill. And the other is operated electronically by highlighting the on and off RPM's
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