kinda off-topic, but with the cold weather arriving in Indiana, not!
I'm looking for success stories with remote starters. Need one for the wife's SUV. Don't care about alarm feature or anything but the start feature. Want 1000' distance and ease of install. Anyone put one in their "precious" they are particularly thrilled with?

 

Lot's of wiring to be done. I'm not handy that way so I took my wife's car to the car alarm company. They usually use your original key fob, so I seriously doubt you will get anything close to 1000'.

 

I just bought a 06 Impalla that already had it, don't think I would have ordered it. It's a garaged car so not a big deal to me.

 

my navigator used to have the COMPU-STAR starter and alarm.....i used to be able to start that thing sitting in class...have it nice and cool or warm depending on weather by the time i would get in (of course the temperatures would have to be set in the truck before you got out) used to have really long range...and it would show you on the control module once it was started...

 

 

Anyone care to share how difficult or time consuming the installation was?

 

DEI (aka Viper) makes a VATS by-pass so there is no wire splicing. The box costs about $50 the whole install should not cost more than $300 total with all the parts. Some new DEI alarms/starters let you keep your memory functions. The dealer must have the programmer to do it. My Trailblazer has been fitted with all the goddies above, but my Vette is not.

 

I used to be a 12v installer, and I can honestly say that a remote-start system should absolutely NOT be done by a novice. With the technology in today's cars, you can easily fry a computer, blow an airbag, or disable a safety device-which you might not figure out until later.

Older cars are easier to do, as everything is "black and white" for the most part (read, + or - and on or off.) Newer cars have security systems to bypass, and in an effort to reduce the amount wire ran in a vehicle they have become BUS systems and are multiplexed. The Body Control Modules are what control and regulate most functions (windows, locks, etc.) An easy example is that one wire, when energized at different voltages, will control several different functions. If you were to send the wrong voltage on the wrong wire you can easily fry a computer. I did this for 5 years, have had ASE and MECP certifications, and know how to do things right. I specfically remember working on a 98 Accord when the BUS systems first starting coming out and doing everything right (I double and triple checked my work, then had a co-worker look it over) and still fried the BCM. $1500 later..... I have done several of these cars since, the exact same way, without any issues. I guess the question is, do you really want to take the risk? I'd highly recommend you pay someone the $150 or so to do it for you. I'd also recommend a unit with an integrated alarm, for the simple fact that if the car is outside and running, and a potential thief thinks someone left the keys in the car running, he might try and steal it. With a starter unit properly installed, he'd likely not get it out of gear (most shut off when you touch the brakes to shift from park) but what about the window he broke to get into it? Just something to think about. Thieves are dumb, ya know......

That being said, if you have experience with newer cars electrical systems, a good knowledge of relays, resistors, diodes, etc, then you may want to attempt it yourself. Just be aware that it's not as simple as you might think.

If you want to tell me the vehicle you own I might be able to provide more info.

 

knowledgable , & friendly

nice one

 

i'm getting a CLIFFORD installed in my vette as we "speak"

in my truck, i have a DEI valet 554
the nice thing about the valet (and i'm not sure about other models) you can preprogram a temp (for the inside of the vehicle) and when that temp hits, it will start the car, run for a preset time (minimum of 12 minutes) and then shut off - personally i think it's a "self block warmer"
we don't get much call to use that here in arizona

the distance can be compromised - if you decide you want "code hopping" enabled, this cuts your transmitter distance considerably - when i go outside today, i'll see if i can test distance (it will be rounding by yards and i have a pretty long stride)

 

t56gen3 your reply was quite informative. My electronics skills are first rate, but having said that....my experience in this area is not so. I am wanting to do this on a 2004 Ford Escape and what concerns me most is door panel removal, by-passing Vats, etc. Everything you mentioned.

Cartronixs, a local installer, wants like 229 for a straight remote starter and 279 (these are installed prices) for the viper with remote start AND key fob for door unlock. I guess you'd have to carry two fobs for the cheaper model...that's no good. I'm layed off right now so time is a plenty and cash is not! But, you are right that one mistake will end up costing twice the going rate. Too bad they aren't just plug and play!

I want a model that has at least 1000' range so the wife can look out here 2nd floor window at work and start it up.

I appreciate any hints or recommends I get,

 

2002 is the most recent I have at the moment (not sure how much different they are for 2004, but you'll get the idea):
| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|red/lt blue (10A) *1|+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|tan/lt blue |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|lt green/purple |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|black/lt green |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|pink/white *2 |- |DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
| POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | |
| LOCK MOTOR|pink/black | |DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
| UNLOCK MOTOR|red/orange | |DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
| DISARM DEFEAT|pink/orange | |PKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|brown | |drivers kick panel |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|black/lt green | |column or 22 pin plug @ GEM |
| HEADLIGHTS|red/white |- |column or 22 pin plug @ GEM |
| DOOR TRIGGER|purple/lt green |- |cluster or 22 pin plug @ GEM|
| DOME SUPERVISION|lt green/black |*3 |drivers door harness |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN| | | |
| HOOD PIN|purple/orange |- |pin sw or 22 pin plug @ GEM |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE| | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt green/black |- |DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|blue/lt green |- |DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM *6 |
| TACHOMETER|*4 | | |
| SPEED SENSE|gray/black | |cruise servo on pass fender |
| BRAKE WIRE|lt green |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER|yellow/lt green |- |steering column *5 |
| WIPERS|blk/pnk(L),blu/org(H|+ |steering column |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN|wht/blk - red |A |driver window switch |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN|tan/lt blu - wht/yel|A |driver kick panel |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN|yel/blk - red/blk |A |driver kick panel |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN|gry/org - yel/lt blu|A |driver kick panel |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE|red - org | |in front of sunroof |
| SUN ROOF LIMIT|orange/white | |in front of sunroof |
| RADIO 12V|orange/lt green |+ |at radio |
| RADIO GROUND|black |- |at radio |
| RADIO SWITCH|yellow/black |+ |at radio |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|lt blue/red |+ |at radio |
| LF SPEAKER|org/lt grn-lt blu/wh| |at radio |
| RF SPEAKER|wht/lt grn - grn/org| |at radio |
| LR SPEAKER|tan/yel - gry/lt blu| |at radio |
| RR SPEAKER|org/red - brn/pnk | |at radio |


Notes:
NOTE: This vehicle is equipped with a passive immobilizer that needs to be bypassed for remote start operation only. Use DEI part number 555S to bypass, and also use the black/pink (+) key sense wire at the steering column to interrupt the blue wire on the 555S so that when the key is inserted to do take over the vehicle does not see two transponders at the same time. Refer to directfax document #1079 for wiring information. *1 This wire is rated at 10 amps only. If installing any system with high current outputs, go to battery for 12v. *2 Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 1,000 ohm resistor. Unlock is a negative trigger. Must use relay on both. *3 This wire rests at ground with the doors closed, and it is an open circuit with the drivers door open. Use a relay to interupt this wire to turn on the dome light. *4 On the ZETEC motor use green/purple or lt green/white at the coil pack. The Duratec motor has a coil for each cylinder, go to any one and use the wire that is NOT white/purple. *5 May be in the SRS harness. Use a meter to test to avoid setting any codes or deploying the airbag. *6 The GEM (generic electronic module) is behind the center console on the floor. Pull off the black panel to the right of the gas pedal, there will be carpet covering it. The plugs face the driver side of the vehicle.

The units I've seen/used with the most range are all DEI. Also the most trouble free. I know there are others out there that do more, and cost more, but the DEI lines seem to be the best bang for the buck for a QUALITY unit.

For the prices you mention above I say it's reasonable. I would definitely check out their work thoroughly before you have them do anything. No two installers are the same, and most think they know what they are doing when the don't. Also, I personally wouldn't have one done unless it was soldered.