Going to do this for the first time. I will have someone with experience helping me. But would like to know any special/important steps to pay attention to.

I found this write up .... are there others??

http://dana60.com/rickko/corvette/rotor-rr.html

Thanks,


DH

 

Make sure to have the ebrake off for the rears. Upgraded mine to Brembo drilled/slotted 5 hours ago. Other than that, the writeup is right on.

 

that'll cover it

look behind the rotor and you'll see the cable. Just use a screwdriver to pry it off


I've got a few comments on brakes here

 

Great resources guys....

 

Thanks and thanks g2103320!!!

I am most concerned about greasing the caliper pins that I have read about before. And the correct colored locktights to use. I want to be able to get everything apart, especially the rotors the next time.


DH

 

I did mine last summer. the fronts were easy to get off, since you could turn the wheels and put a pipe on the ratchet to put a lot of force on it. I couldn't get the rears off. If I had the car on a lift I could get more leverage but on jackstands I couldn't get em off. Use blue locktite and make sure you tighten the bolts to 120-130 ft/lbs. Grease the pins. My brakes were squeaking and greasing the pins solved the problem. good luck and have fun.

 

I did mine about three weeks ago. Used the thread you have. Two things popped up for me.
1) The rear bolts cannot be gotten off with a breaker bar. There is not enough room. You absolutely need an impact wrench and you will probably have to soak the bolts with pennetrating oil.
2) The thread does not address the REPLACEMENT of pads, only rotors. You will need to push the pistons back in the calipers. Get yourself a large "C" clamp and a piece of 1x2 about 6" long. Use the wood across the pistons and wind the clamp across the caliper to push the pistons back. REMEMBER! You have probably added brake fluid as you have used up the old pads. When you push the pistons back in the original place, you will push the excess brake fluid back into the reservor, and probably over flow it.
Other than those two problems, the job is really simple, GO FOR IT!!!
ZOOOM

 

Look's like you're on the right track to a proper C-5 brake system upgrade. I've found the rears to be the the toughest part. The caliper bolts are lock tighted and access is tight. When cranking on the breaker bar, pop, I thought the caliper bolt broke loose. That pop was the S-K socket splitting. These things are tight. I'ts always a good idea to clean the cars spindle mating surface of rust during the install. Of course you'll take some solvent to the new rotors waxy coating. Take some time in adjusting the inner drum parking brake set up. If not, plan on performing the whole remove/reinstall process of the rears later on.

 

If you can, purchase and install braided brake lines at the same time you do the rest of the work. It's easy when you already have it apart. They are more resistant to heat and won't crack like stock ones will.

 

What is the correct grease?


DH

 

I have not added brake fluid since last pads. Do you remove the reservor cap when retracting caliper pistons? If not how is it going to over flow??

I am not removing the rear rotors....only the fronts. But I am surprized to hear that an impact wrench is necessary......I thought lots of guys were doing this with only hand tools.


DH

 

I will make sure the mating surface is clean.

I looked at my Erradispeed replacement rotor rings and there is now waxy coating.....they are zinc plated/washed.

PS: I am just replacing the front rings....these are two piece Erradispeeds......so you have to remove the ring from the hat.


DH

 

Haven't had any brake fluid leaking or loss. But I will inspect the lines.

Car only has 54K EASY miles on it ... should this really be a concern??


DH

 

Synthetic caliper pin grease, available at any auto parts store. It's about $12 for a bottle that's about 8 oz, but it will last you the rest of your life.

You won't need an impact wrench for the rear bolts, just put your wratchet or breaker bar on the bolt then give it a few good whacks with a dead blow hammer (the heavy orange plastic one).

 

The rear bolts can be done w/o an impact wrench, but the work will require far fewer 4 letter words if you have one.

If you are doing this work yourself, and live in a house (i.e. you have a garage) I recommend getting a compressor and impact wrench. The two I have cost me ~$300 total and I don't know how I ever lived without one. It makes EVERYTHING more enjoyable and will pay for itself in time/energy/fun in no time.

When I replace the rear bolts I just use blue loctite (vs. the red that's on there) and tighten with the impact gun. This keeps then in place,and they are easier to change. I typically don't put more than 2k miles on them between changing from street to track rotors anyway, so it makes life much easier.

Always inspect the lines if you have everything off for brake work anyway. In fact, I recommend having someone depress the pedal and then feeling each line for possible bubbling under pressure. I've seen you post about tracking, and wanting to track, and it's always a question of better safe then sorry. (never depress the pedal with calipers off or no pads in the caliper! ).

I have a Dremel tool and use a little wire wheel (looks like a brillo/sos pad thingy) and this is perfect for cleaning the hub. Does a quick, clean job.

Other than that I think everything above covers it.

 

OK, question about the rear brakes. If i just wanna change the pads... I was trying to get the calipers off, looks like there are 2 bolts that hold them on, but they keep turning. I see on the fronts where you have to hold the inside with a wrench while unscrewing the bolts, but i dont see anything like that on the rears? Feel like i'm missing something stupid? Done plenty of brake jobs, just never on "da beast"

 

Soo much info, but it is sooo easy. 2 bolts - that are EASILY loosened with a breaker bar - and the caliper comes off with a little help from a plastic/rubber mallet. Compress the caliper, slide the old pads out - in with the new, grab a BFH (Big F'in Hammer) to beat the old rotors off slide the new ones on, reinstall calipers, put wheels on, pump brakes, drive away!

 

Vizette,

To change pads you only have to undo one of the 'slider' bolts, not both, and none of the caliper mounting bolts. The sliders require two wrenches (I forget sizes) in order to loosen them. Undo the top one and rotate the caliper away from the rotor (still attached by the bottom). This is all that's required to change pads, and it's identical to the front.

Changing rotors requires dismounting the caliper. From posts on here, some people are VERY strong, or there is variation in how tight those things are from the dealer/factory. Mine were a major PITA. I can only get the car 18" off the ground in my garage, which is hardly enough room to get my 24" bar on there, let alone turn it.

 

Hmm ok will have to look at it again because it seemed like the slider bolt just kept turning but not backing out, and i didn't see anywhere to use a second wrench like on the front calipers which is why i'm confused. I must have just overlooked it.

Thanks!!!

 

THink you overlooked it

There's a little rubber booty that may have covered up the inboard bolt. It's a funny bold that's round with two flat sides (not a hex bolt).