$2000 for Christmas mods
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,074
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by 84zz4vette
Nitrous plus a catback for that "muscle car sound".....and you'll still have $500 left to go towards saving for a torque convertor and gears. You'll be solidly in the 12's with just nitrous and low 12's or even high 11's after the gears and TC.....
Check this video for the sound of a $600 Borla Stinger catback running on the dyno with Nitrous.... and you can't argue with the results for the price....
http://nelsonresidence.com/vehicles/...OSdynoRun2.wmv
Check this video for the sound of a $600 Borla Stinger catback running on the dyno with Nitrous.... and you can't argue with the results for the price....
http://nelsonresidence.com/vehicles/...OSdynoRun2.wmv
Thanks 84zz4vette
Now that is awsome and inspiring.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 62,195
Likes: 28
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Originally Posted by Dave1
...Nice vid.... 
Starting him off bottle fed?.........
You boys play hardball in Cali....BTW, nice ride Steve.....
Starting him off bottle fed?.........
You boys play hardball in Cali....BTW, nice ride Steve.....
As for hardball.......nahhh.....I'm a lightweight compared to many around here......
Remember, we're the home of A&A, where if you ain't putting 500+ to the wheels you ain't chit.....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,074
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by la vett girl
It's up to you to find the right set of heads. There's a set of LS6 heads on Ebay right now going for $100 (they're bone stock right now). You'll have to do some custom work (port and polishing the heads etc) You'll have to build your own valvetrain. According to your budget, you should have about $700 to build a good valvetrain. The key to keeping cost down is doing the labor yourself. If you can do these mods yourself, then it's perfectly reasonable to keep the price under 2K. You may have to reprogram your computer after these modifications and that may take awhile. Comp cams has a high lift cam on Ebay for $350 (see the link below)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-...spagenameZWD1V
As far as the 150 hp gain, these are some of the mods done to a C5R in a popular mechanics article. The C5R in this article produced over 600 rwhp (most of this was due to a head upgrade, aggresive camshaft and a bore/stroke job. Stock vettes produce around 345hp. Keep in mind the number one factor in creating hp is compression. Heads are a primary factor in determining compression. (other factors being: bore x stroke, displacment, and induction pressure) Such a modification is meant to be complemented by other future mods. These kind of mods will cause our vette to be on the "operating table" (aka garage) for a while. Bolt-on mods (such as the second combination) can be done in less time and often require alot less hassle than tearing into your engine...remember for any car to truly perform well, the key is to match the performance abilites of all parts to prevent failure or performance restrctions on a non-upgraded part.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-...spagenameZWD1V
As far as the 150 hp gain, these are some of the mods done to a C5R in a popular mechanics article. The C5R in this article produced over 600 rwhp (most of this was due to a head upgrade, aggresive camshaft and a bore/stroke job. Stock vettes produce around 345hp. Keep in mind the number one factor in creating hp is compression. Heads are a primary factor in determining compression. (other factors being: bore x stroke, displacment, and induction pressure) Such a modification is meant to be complemented by other future mods. These kind of mods will cause our vette to be on the "operating table" (aka garage) for a while. Bolt-on mods (such as the second combination) can be done in less time and often require alot less hassle than tearing into your engine...remember for any car to truly perform well, the key is to match the performance abilites of all parts to prevent failure or performance restrctions on a non-upgraded part.
Thank you for the link la vett girl, sounds like you really know your stuff. As far as tearing into my engine...I don't feel comfortable enough in my mechanical skills to try something like that. I'd have to let a pro do the job. And living here in po dunk west Texas without a good corvette specialist around, things are just not looking too good.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
It really depends just how much performance you want and what you're willing to do yourself. To get 400rwhp on motor only you really need heads and cam (although some are doing it cam only)......and in a shop that's gonna run you 2500-3000.
You can get close to 400 with a cam only......that will only cost you about 1500 in a shop but you'll have to go much more agressive on the cam which may make driveability more of an issue as well as smog a problem (if that's a concern where you're at).
The beauty of nitrous is you don't have to break into your engine, you can install it yourself on a weekend..... or even an afternoon if you're quick. Almost no mechanical work......mostly just routing the wires and lines. There's no reason to be afraid of nitrous these days......you can do it right with no worries and stay less than $1000. And what I really like......is the car maintains total stock drivability.......and the power is only there when you really need it. The other thing is......the power comes on much harder than just stomping on the gas with most heads/cam cars. If you are interested PM and I'll shoot you a few links to study up on it.....a few old myths will be dispelled and you'll probably be very surprised at how many guys are using it and how safe it is. It's not for everybody of course.....but it is for me.....
You can get close to 400 with a cam only......that will only cost you about 1500 in a shop but you'll have to go much more agressive on the cam which may make driveability more of an issue as well as smog a problem (if that's a concern where you're at).
The beauty of nitrous is you don't have to break into your engine, you can install it yourself on a weekend..... or even an afternoon if you're quick. Almost no mechanical work......mostly just routing the wires and lines. There's no reason to be afraid of nitrous these days......you can do it right with no worries and stay less than $1000. And what I really like......is the car maintains total stock drivability.......and the power is only there when you really need it. The other thing is......the power comes on much harder than just stomping on the gas with most heads/cam cars. If you are interested PM and I'll shoot you a few links to study up on it.....a few old myths will be dispelled and you'll probably be very surprised at how many guys are using it and how safe it is. It's not for everybody of course.....but it is for me.....
Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 514
Likes: 110
From: Sacramento, California
I would have to agree on the upgrading of gears. Since you have an auto put in some 3.42s (You can usually find them cheap), and a stall and you will be good to go. This will make the car accelerate much faster, but will also eat up your mpg a little bit, but not much. Now if you want to buy a new differential from lets say DTE your looking at around $1600. Dont know how much a good stall would run you since Im a manual guy. This combo would put you over your budget by about $500, but the gains would be awesome.
Buy used if you can on intake, headers, and cat back if you can. It will save you alot of money for what you are getting.
Buy used if you can on intake, headers, and cat back if you can. It will save you alot of money for what you are getting.
