Another "Jacking up the vette" question...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 3
From: Valparaiso Indiana
Another "Jacking up the vette" question...
Okay, I decided to paint the calipers. I realized my little toy hydraulic jack I keep in the Honda is no match for the job. 
So, first, any recommendations for a suitable jack? Don't need anything expensive, since I doubt I'll ever use it again.
Next, I've seen some of you favoring jacking under the cross member and putting stands under the puck points and yet others jacking at the puck points. I'm only looking to do one wheel at a time, which way should I go?
Man, I wish I had a lift
Thanks guys!
So, first, any recommendations for a suitable jack? Don't need anything expensive, since I doubt I'll ever use it again.Next, I've seen some of you favoring jacking under the cross member and putting stands under the puck points and yet others jacking at the puck points. I'm only looking to do one wheel at a time, which way should I go?
Man, I wish I had a lift
Thanks guys!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 24,652
Likes: 298
From: NJ
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Make sure you get a low profile jack - it will be easier in the long run.
If you are only using your jack once in a blue moon I have seen those little aluminum jacks that work well. I use one at the track to change the tires with no problem. At home though I use ramps, jack stands and a good jack.
You would not want to jack your car at the puck points if you do not have pucks. That being said you can get a set of plastic pucks from BMW (yes BMW pucks are cheaper and work - I believe for a 325 convertible) and they will fit perfectly in the slots.
If you dont have the pucks then use the cross beam. I find it easier to use a 2x4 between the jack and the cross beam, but you dont have to.
For painting the calipers I would lift the whole front and do them both and then do the rears. The best thing is to go out and buy two cheap brushes. Do the front calipers first and then throw away the first brush. Wait over night for the paint to dry then remove the paint from the lettering. I used a razor and an emory board that I borrowed from my wife. When done jack up the rear and take a new brush and do them.
If you are only using your jack once in a blue moon I have seen those little aluminum jacks that work well. I use one at the track to change the tires with no problem. At home though I use ramps, jack stands and a good jack.
You would not want to jack your car at the puck points if you do not have pucks. That being said you can get a set of plastic pucks from BMW (yes BMW pucks are cheaper and work - I believe for a 325 convertible) and they will fit perfectly in the slots.
If you dont have the pucks then use the cross beam. I find it easier to use a 2x4 between the jack and the cross beam, but you dont have to.
For painting the calipers I would lift the whole front and do them both and then do the rears. The best thing is to go out and buy two cheap brushes. Do the front calipers first and then throw away the first brush. Wait over night for the paint to dry then remove the paint from the lettering. I used a razor and an emory board that I borrowed from my wife. When done jack up the rear and take a new brush and do them.
Last edited by Wicked Weasel; Jan 4, 2006 at 08:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 3
From: Valparaiso Indiana
Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
Make sure you get a low profile jack - it will be easier in the long run.
If you are only using your jack once in a blue moon I have seen those little aluminum jacks that work well. I use one at the track to change the tires with no problem. At home though I use ramps, jack stands and a good jack.
You would not want to jack your car at the puck points if you do not have pucks. That being said you can get a set of plastic pucks from BMW (yes BMW pucks are cheaper and work - I believe for a 325 convertible) and they will fit perfectly in the slots.
If you dont have the pucks then use the cross beam. I find it easier to use a 2x4 between the jack and the cross beam, but you dont have to.
For painting the calipers I would lift the whole front and do them both and then do the rears. The best thing is to go out and buy two cheap brushes. Do the front calipers first and then throw away the first brush. Wait over night for the paint to dry then remove the paint from the lettering. I used a razor and an emory board that I borrowed from my wife. When done jack up the rear and take a new brush and do them.
If you are only using your jack once in a blue moon I have seen those little aluminum jacks that work well. I use one at the track to change the tires with no problem. At home though I use ramps, jack stands and a good jack.
You would not want to jack your car at the puck points if you do not have pucks. That being said you can get a set of plastic pucks from BMW (yes BMW pucks are cheaper and work - I believe for a 325 convertible) and they will fit perfectly in the slots.
If you dont have the pucks then use the cross beam. I find it easier to use a 2x4 between the jack and the cross beam, but you dont have to.
For painting the calipers I would lift the whole front and do them both and then do the rears. The best thing is to go out and buy two cheap brushes. Do the front calipers first and then throw away the first brush. Wait over night for the paint to dry then remove the paint from the lettering. I used a razor and an emory board that I borrowed from my wife. When done jack up the rear and take a new brush and do them.
So, if I use pucks, its okay to jack at the puck points and do one wheel at a time?
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
Go to Sam's Club or Costco ( if you are a member) for under $75 you can buy a 3 ton low profile jack ( Michelin or Rousch Racing) that will more than do the job. Otherwise check out Harbor Freight or Sears.
Since you don't plan to lift a lot, just lift at the front and rear cross members.... use jack stands at the ends of the cross members front and rear. Ideally put a 2x6 about 26 inches long under the front and a 2x8 under the rear between the jack and the cross member. Put the jack stands under those at the ends on either side of the jack and remove the jack.
Since you don't plan to lift a lot, just lift at the front and rear cross members.... use jack stands at the ends of the cross members front and rear. Ideally put a 2x6 about 26 inches long under the front and a 2x8 under the rear between the jack and the cross member. Put the jack stands under those at the ends on either side of the jack and remove the jack.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 3
From: Rehoboth MA . . . NRA Life Member
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I was at Sears last night and they have 2 floor jack they call "Racing Jacks". The one I was looking at was a low profile jack with a solid billet roller in the front and a rubber padded jack pad. It's construction is heavy aluminum anodized red.
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 24,652
Likes: 298
From: NJ
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by gotnovette
Ask your wife if you can borrow another emery board for me
So, if I use pucks, its okay to jack at the puck points and do one wheel at a time?
Thanks
So, if I use pucks, its okay to jack at the puck points and do one wheel at a time?
Thanks
yeah that will be ok....
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 292
Likes: 3
From: Valparaiso Indiana
Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
yeah that will be ok....
Thanks for the help.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by BobbyG
I was at Sears last night and they have 2 floor jack they call "Racing Jacks". The one I was looking at was a low profile jack with a solid billet roller in the front and a rubber padded jack pad. It's construction is heavy aluminum anodized red.
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
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Lifetime Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,702
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From: New Jersey
St. Jude Donor '05, '12-'13, '15-'16, '21
Originally Posted by BobbyG
I was at Sears last night and they have 2 floor jack they call "Racing Jacks". The one I was looking at was a low profile jack with a solid billet roller in the front and a rubber padded jack pad. It's construction is heavy aluminum anodized red.
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
This is a real nice hydraulic jack and for $199 I'm almost temped to by it. Actually, the jack sort of looks out of place at Sears bit it'll look great in my garage!
Bob
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
From: arlington tx
i have an inexpensive AC delco jack that has never failed me. when i did both of our C5's i used one jack under the rear cross member and put two stands under it, then used two of these AC delco jacks at the front jacking puck locations (hocky pucks work just fine with a eye bolt stuck in em) and put the jack stands under the front cross member that way it was all outta the way. i like to sit in the floor when i do calipers etc and i find that sometimes moving around pickin up what i dropped etc is easier when the jack stand isnt at the outside edge of the car at the puck location-put it under the car so u dont bump into it or turn a can of paint over and have to clean up around it....(not that i have done that....)
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
From: arlington tx
oh yeah. and a low profile jack would be better, cause now that ive been lowered i have to drive mine up on something to get under the frt pucks....(some use a 2x4, i simply use my stock front brake rotors...perfect for that)
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 538
Likes: 9
From: Geneva, IL Bring back the Chief!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
Originally Posted by rws.1
Go to Sam's Club or Costco ( if you are a member) for under $75 you can buy a 3 ton low profile jack ( Michelin or Rousch Racing) that will more than do the job. Otherwise check out Harbor Freight or Sears.
Since you don't plan to lift a lot, just lift at the front and rear cross members.... use jack stands at the ends of the cross members front and rear. Ideally put a 2x6 about 26 inches long under the front and a 2x8 under the rear between the jack and the cross member. Put the jack stands under those at the ends on either side of the jack and remove the jack.
Since you don't plan to lift a lot, just lift at the front and rear cross members.... use jack stands at the ends of the cross members front and rear. Ideally put a 2x6 about 26 inches long under the front and a 2x8 under the rear between the jack and the cross member. Put the jack stands under those at the ends on either side of the jack and remove the jack.
Pucks are $1 each at SPorts Authority or Dick's, Personally, I've got something a lot heavier duty, but I do a lot of work on all the family vehicles..
