Help
I recently purchased a glass top, in perfect condition, installed it on the car. Everything looked and fit fine, but it leaks! it has a almost steady drip from the corners, (all four) mostly at the front, not at the seal-glass area, but from the inner frame. I have since pulled it off turned it over and inspected the seals, they all look almost new, the ends have an adhesive on them where they screw into the top-(that shouldn't leak right?)

any help would be good.

 

No idea but here's a ttt for ya.

 

Sorry I can't help. But to make you feel better, mine leaks too. After driving a Jeep, I learned to keep a micro fiber towel in the glove box.

 

The shop manual discusses how to adjust the top when water leaks at given areas. There are several possibilities. Here's one diagnosis and remedy:

Drip from the Front or Rear of the Roof Side Weatherstrip (Coupe)

Possible Cause
There is a gap between the roof panel side weatherstrip and the roof panel side weatherstrip retainer at the front or the rear corner of the roof. Water is leaking under the weatherstrip at the end of the retainer.

Diagnosis
Perform a local water test at the end of the roof weatherstrip.

Corrective Action
Remove the roof panel and place the roof upside down on a clean dry surface.
Remove the screw from the end of the weatherstrip.
Partially remove the weatherstrip.
Apply a bead of urethane windshield sealant 6 mm (0.2 in) high.
Across the end of the weatherstrip retainer.
From the end of the weatherstrip retainer 20 mm (0.8 in) along the upper edge of the retainer.
From the end of the weatherstrip retainer 20 mm (0.8 in) along the roof panel at the junction where the roof frame is bonded to the roof panel.
Install the weatherstrip and the attaching screw.

Important
When installing the roof panel make sure the front edge of the rear roof bow weatherstrip does not roll rearward and block the drain trough down the middle of the weatherstrip.


Install the roof lift off panel.

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Here's another:

At the Rear Edge of the Door Window (Coupe)

Possible Cause
There is not enough contact pressure between the window and the rear weatherstrip.

Diagnosis
Perform a localized water test. A large squeeze bottle can be used to spray water on the weatherstrips.

Corrective Action 1
Grasp the middle of the side of the roof bow weatherstrip with one hand and with the other hand pull the weatherstrip down in its retainer to form a slight bulge near the bottom of the weatherstrip.
Grasp the middle of the rear roof bow weatherstrip and slide it upward in the retainer so it tightly contacts the roof weatherstrip.
Perform a localized water test. If there is still a leak perform corrective action 2.

Corrective Action 2
Adjust the window tip in to increase the contact pressure between the window and the weatherstrips

 

First, thanks for the info.,

I think you hit it on the spot, with the sealant. This is only on the corners, in the screw area.

Is there differences in years of tops vs. glass or solid as to how they seal? My solid top seals great, but is also has extra pieces that support the rubber.

Is there any guidlines on adjustment to the tops or is there even any adjustment?

 

Another technique that has been discussed frome time to time on the forum is to treat the survace of the seals to make them more more resistive to water passing by the seal to mating surface joint. I wouls suggest that all other remedies such as discussed above be done first, to ensure that there is good pressire between the foam seal and the mating surface. Get a tube of 'dialectric grease'. This stuff is pure silicone grease. I looks like clear RTV Silicone, but it NEVER cures, it stays in grease form. This stuff is really hydrophobic, water repellant. The idea is to smear a thin layer of the grease onto the rubber gasket material. It forms a sort of skin that inhibits water migration. The usual procedure and the one that I use is to apply the grease with a rag to get a thin film of it all over the rubber. I then massage it in to encourage it to migrate into any tiny porosity in the rubber, and then wipe off excess. The rubber should blacker and shiny, but not showing any globs of the grease. The remaining thin film also helps to lubricate the seal to seal jounts so problem areas like at the rear corners actually line up better and faster when putting on the top. The seals are rather complex at that joint, actually forming a hollow water channel. With the light silicone grease the seals tend to slip into place without any push and shove to get them lined up.

We live in Oregon and get LOTS of rain. Our Vette is kept outside so it gets wet. With the application of the silicone grease, there are NO leaks.

BTW, Silicone is not a preservative for the rubber seals. It is just a slippery coating. I use a product called Aerospace 303, a liquid in a pump spray bottle for plastic and rubber treatment, It has powerfull UV blockers and works really well. About 4 times a year I spray the seals with this stuff, let it soak in, then do the silicne dielectric grease over the treated seal.

Dielectric grease is sold in auto parts stores in the electrical department. It is used to water seal spark plug boots and assorted electrical connections. I have also heard some mechanics refer to it as 'ignition grease'

Good luck!

 

There are two kinds of removable roofs. Those that leak and those that will leak.