Drag racing question.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Drag racing question.
I'm new so be kind but I need to know a couple things.
1. In a drag race should traction control be turned off?
2. For a basically stock 2000 FRC M6, what is best launch RPM and best shift RPM for 1/8 mile?
3. What tire pressures?
4. Should I do a burnout and please explain technique? I can smoke the tires but I've never done one at a track in the water box.
Stock runflats, K&N with cut open airbox.
1. In a drag race should traction control be turned off?
2. For a basically stock 2000 FRC M6, what is best launch RPM and best shift RPM for 1/8 mile?
3. What tire pressures?
4. Should I do a burnout and please explain technique? I can smoke the tires but I've never done one at a track in the water box.
Stock runflats, K&N with cut open airbox.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 17,786
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From: Redsox, Pats, Celts & Bruins !!! Redsox Nation !!!
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
1. off
2. It takes trial and error for the best launch with an M6
3. NEVER NEVER lower tire pressure on street tires, they will become unsafe.
4. Drive around the water box so the front tires stay dry. Burning out with street tires will not do much, IMHO and experience
2. It takes trial and error for the best launch with an M6
3. NEVER NEVER lower tire pressure on street tires, they will become unsafe.
4. Drive around the water box so the front tires stay dry. Burning out with street tires will not do much, IMHO and experience
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Originally Posted by screw991le
1. off
2. It takes trial and error for the best launch with an M6
3. NEVER NEVER lower tire pressure on street tires, they will become unsafe.
4. Drive around the water box so the front tires stay dry. Burning out with street tires will not do much, IMHO and experience
2. It takes trial and error for the best launch with an M6
3. NEVER NEVER lower tire pressure on street tires, they will become unsafe.
4. Drive around the water box so the front tires stay dry. Burning out with street tires will not do much, IMHO and experience
Can you ball park me on #2?
On #3, I still ask what you recommend. I run 35 PSI on the street.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,406
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From: Dallas Tx
Originally Posted by captainpooby
On #3, I still ask what you recommend. I run 35 PSI on the street.
Shane
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
I would stick to what the door sticker says. 30 psi. My last set of tires that I kept at 32 psi ended up wearing more in the middle of the tire. Conclusion to much pressure. My new tires are at 30 psi cold. And with a little over 6,000 miles on them they are wearing evenly across the tires.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 14,553
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From: Supporting the Corvette Community at Abel Chevrolet in Rio Vista, CA 707-374-6317 Ext.123
St. Jude Donor '08
1. Keep it off
2.Mine is highly modded so I'm not sure. Try about 2,000-2,500 for the launch and right before redline on the shifts.
3.Around 30 psi
4.Just spin the tires enough to clean them off. Doing a John Force style burnout on street tires is a waste of $.
2.Mine is highly modded so I'm not sure. Try about 2,000-2,500 for the launch and right before redline on the shifts.
3.Around 30 psi
4.Just spin the tires enough to clean them off. Doing a John Force style burnout on street tires is a waste of $.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 8
From: Cockeysville Maryland
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Daytona Jam 1 Veteran
1- turn traction control off but leave active handling on IMHO. This equals COMPETETIVE MODE which is achieved by holding down the active handling button for 5 to 7 seconds or so. COMPETETIVE DRIVING MODE will appear on the DIC
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 24,652
Likes: 298
From: NJ
St. Jude Donor '05-'08
Originally Posted by AnteVenom
1- turn traction control off but leave active handling on IMHO. This equals COMPETETIVE MODE which is achieved by holding down the active handling button for 5 to 7 seconds or so. COMPETETIVE DRIVING MODE will appear on the DIC
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
You can also add air to your front tires maybe up to 38 psi.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll try and keep it all in my head if I make it out for a run.
I work with a guy who was a sponsored Harley drag racer and was explaining bracket racing and staging etc.. to me today.
Wow! How can something so simple seem so complicated? I think I grasp it now though, it's all reaction time.
I have access to a place I can make a couple practice starts tomorrow and if it's windy I'll try a couple of these suggestions.
ETA: Why not dump the clutch on runflats? I did it twice the night I bought it. :o
I work with a guy who was a sponsored Harley drag racer and was explaining bracket racing and staging etc.. to me today.
Wow! How can something so simple seem so complicated? I think I grasp it now though, it's all reaction time.
I have access to a place I can make a couple practice starts tomorrow and if it's windy I'll try a couple of these suggestions.
ETA: Why not dump the clutch on runflats? I did it twice the night I bought it. :o
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
One post on launches last year has really helped me out in launching the car. It is that when you go to take off you let out the clutch till you feel the weight transfer to the rear then you pop the clutch. There's a whole lot less burning rubber and a much better launch. I've got to the point that my revs are up at 3200 rpm and keep it there then let out the clutch till the weight transfers to the rear and drop it from there. It all happens in a split second but try it out at different rpm's till you find one that works for you. Hope that gives you something to work on. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Originally Posted by Stock Man
One post on launches last year has really helped me out in launching the car. It is that when you go to take off you let out the clutch till you feel the weight transfer to the rear then you pop the clutch. There's a whole lot less burning rubber and a much better launch. I've got to the point that my revs are up at 3200 rpm and keep it there then let out the clutch till the weight transfers to the rear and drop it from there. It all happens in a split second but try it out at different rpm's till you find one that works for you. Hope that gives you something to work on.
I've been driving manual F-bodies for years so I understand your tip but I'll panic and make a dick out myself.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,456
Likes: 8
From: Cockeysville Maryland
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Daytona Jam 1 Veteran
Originally Posted by captainpooby
ETA: Why not dump the clutch on runflats? I did it twice the night I bought it. :o
Anyway the reason you do not want to dump your clutch on runflats and I will now suggest you not ever dump your clutch is because if you ever "dead hook" for some reason you will most surely break some parts!
I have done it acouple of times and have learned my lesson the hard way.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,957
Likes: 527
From: Witness Protection Program Somewhere, USA
This advice comes from some experience.
Drive around the water.
Tire pressure at 30psi.
Once fully staged, bring RPM to around 2200.
On the last yellow (assume full tree), aggressively let out the clutch and floor it at the same time. If you side step the clutch, 2 things can happen. Neither good. 1. Lots of tire spin (not bad, but lousy for e.t.), 2. transaxle hop. (very bad).
If all goes well, you're on your way. Shift just before redline and enjoy the blast.
You are now officially hooked on drag racing.
Drive around the water.
Tire pressure at 30psi.
Once fully staged, bring RPM to around 2200.
On the last yellow (assume full tree), aggressively let out the clutch and floor it at the same time. If you side step the clutch, 2 things can happen. Neither good. 1. Lots of tire spin (not bad, but lousy for e.t.), 2. transaxle hop. (very bad).
If all goes well, you're on your way. Shift just before redline and enjoy the blast.
You are now officially hooked on drag racing.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Drag race question
I agree with most everything mentioned & rpm shud be around 1800 or depending if it comes out with just enough spin to keep it from bogging,as one said tire settings on radials cant be treated like wrinkle walled slicks...30psi.I started racin with a new 64 cp(365hp).When the strips jumped from a flagman to tree,people found out you had to be in relatively sameplace on track to start.I remember guy wanted to spot his opponent 1/2 a car & the guy thought a minute & said no.more important to leave first than the distance.Now they have stagging lites. iwhud always stage shallow.This is controversal.however....
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,726
Likes: 97
From: Castro Valley State of Insanity
Staging shallow will give you a better et but a slower reaction time. Staging deeper will result in a better reaction time but slower et. But being deeper also puts you closer to the finish line stripe. I would say find the rpm that gives you the best launch, then vary your staging depth, to get the best reaction time without going red. Between the starting beams you have 9 to 11 inches to play with, depending on the diameter of your front tires. You can actually leave while the last yellow is on, and be safe, due to a slow reaction time on these cars. If you find yourself red lighting, stage a little shallower. If you are bracket racing, try to take the finish line stripe by the mininum amount, this cuts down your chance of breaking out. If you are sure you are not going to catch your opponent, lift and brake SLIGHTLY just before the stripe and hope he breaks out. There is much more, but that should get you started, remember there is no substitute for seat time, and don't be afraid to ask questions at the track, most people will be willing to help with honest answers, good luck, Larry. 
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,726
Likes: 97
From: Castro Valley State of Insanity
PS Bracket racing is all about cutting a light and running the number. Consistency is what will win races, both on reaction time and et. Keep records, as your cars performance will change with the prevailing weather. Higher temps and humidity will equal slower times, which will effect your dial in. Track temps will also effect how your tires hookup, and when you stage make sure you are centered in the rubber on the starting line, and pointed straight down the middle of your lane.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,960
Likes: 0
From: Issaquah Wa.
Originally Posted by AnteVenom
1- turn traction control off but leave active handling on IMHO. This equals COMPETETIVE MODE which is achieved by holding down the active handling button for 5 to 7 seconds or so. COMPETETIVE DRIVING MODE will appear on the DIC
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
2- I would not try to launch over 1800 rpms on RUNFLAT tires. I think if you do you will experience wheel hop which is very damaging to your car.
3- I agree with the others to keep your RUNFLATS at normal PSI (30 is good) If you were to have the Z06 tires, Goodyear F1 Supercars, also STREET TIRES, you WOULD want to lower the PSI to maybe 20 to 22 PSI
4- Again with RUNFLATS DO NOT burnout at all. When these tires get hot they become greasy and slippery. If you were to have the F1 Supercar tires I would suggest that you do a small burnout just forward of the water box.
With runflat tires DO NOT go through the water box at all unless the track has it set up to force this. Also NEVER dump your clutch on RUNFLATS not matter the RPM you launch at.
Just my opinions!
Antivenoms, pretty much nailed it. Sounds like this isnt his first day