Body Side Molding Trouble?
I've always noticed that when viewed from the side, the BSM makes the wheelbase of the car look short. It also not only detracts from the smooth shape and clean lines, it also draws your eyes away from the wheels. Needless to say, I want then GONE!
Now, I've seen 64,532 posts where EVERYONE who's reportedly done this, says they had no problem. Not one person said they had a permanent marring where the tape was, and only one person reported an off-color due to longer element exposure on the rest of the car. And, even that person said that after a few days in the sun the marked difference went away. His car was the "dreaded MY", as he put it. I guess that means MY is a color that oxidizes quickly?
I have not heard any problems with the paint of the car coming off, not even from those that literally ripped it of their cars, nor have I heard of any chemical damage from the WD40 and mineral spirits and the like that have been used.
I have an '01 Magnetic Red with 42,000 miles. Although it seems lkike high miles, the 8,000 miles a year is really due to long trips in the car. I keep it in the garage. I believe the likelihood of color difference under the BSM is extremely low - am I setting myself up for disappointment?
After 5 years on the car as a factory option, opposed to a dealer installed item, would ripping them off be dangerous?
Which is the safest, most effective chemical that can be used to pre-soften the tape underneath before attempting the removal?
What about the blow dryer in cold weather? Seems to me that a chemical that softens the tape would be MUCH more effective that a blow dryer, even in 40 degree weather. Am I wrong in my thinking?
Would mineral spirits really work to get the gum off after the BSM is gone without eating the clear coat?
Any feedback from those who've had trouble, as well as those who have tips, would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Jan 16, 2006 at 02:07 PM.


Best of luck,
Richard
Best of luck,
Richard
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html







http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html
I got some discoloration, but it went away after a few days in the sun. As for doing the removal in the cold weather, I just wouldn't. I did it in the spring in PA, and I probably should have waited until the summer weather. There's a trade-off with softening up the adhesive too much-- the line with go through it easier, but the removal of the actual adhesive later won't be too much easier. Rolling the adhesive off with your thumb works better when the adhesive is less slippery. But, either way, it's not a ton of fun. LOL
Whatever you do, use some fishing line that is stronger than you think you need. I broke the fishing line I was using about every 5" along the way. VERY frustrating. Also, I'd advise wrapping the line around a block of wood or something at either end that you can grasp in each hand. You want this sawing through the adhesive, not your fingers!
WD-40, 3M Scratch & Swirl, Zaino, and the sun worked wonders for me after the removal.
Go for it!
-Kirk
Last edited by KMeloney; Jan 16, 2006 at 07:26 PM.



On the convertible, I think it makes the car look longer, and I really like them now.
I was considering taking them off, until I saw a triple black without the BSM, and I was glad I had them on my car.
To each his own.
As far as removing them, it sounds like you have a lot of good advice here.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Do you happen to still have the can you used? Maybe you could describe what the can looks like, and I can call some other places. I already tried Napa, Kragen, and Autozone.
Otherwise, I guess I don't have much choice but try this stuff I bought, and keep some WD40 on hand in case the 3M stuff I have doesn't pan out.
Incidentally, I went to my local Napa and they didn't have anything but the 3M adhesive spray.
Thanks.
I got some discoloration, but it went away after a few days in the sun. As for doing the removal in the cold weather, I just wouldn't. I did it in the spring in PA, and I probably should have waited until the summer weather. There's a trade-off with softening up the adhesive too much-- the line with go through it easier, but the removal of the actual adhesive later won't be too much easier. Rolling the adhesive off with your thumb works better when the adhesive is less slippery. But, either way, it's not a ton of fun. LOL
Whatever you do, use some fishing line that is stronger than you think you need. I broke the fishing line I was using about every 5" along the way. VERY frustrating. Also, I'd advise wrapping the line around a block of wood or something at either end that you can grasp in each hand. You want this sawing through the adhesive, not your fingers!
WD-40, 3M Scratch & Swirl, Zaino, and the sun worked wonders for me after the removal.
Go for it!
-Kirk
In any case, thanks for the tips on using wood as handles for the fishing line. I have some Spiderwire Fusion on hand, which has a 12 lb. test diameter and a 30 lb. strength. I would think the smaller diameter will cut through the tape easier. As for colder weather, I'm now thinking I should use the blow dryer AFTER th BSMs are gone to make removal of the adhesive residue easier!
"3M Gerrneral Purpose Adhesive Cleaner"
Part No. 051135-08984
For removing:
Adhesive, Silicone, Wax, Grease, Tar, Oil
1 U.S. Qt./946,2ml
Good Luck!!!!!
Russ...
Here are some additional tips:
1) Wash the BSMs and area around them before beginning.
2) Start at the front where the molding is widest.
3) Use a blow dryer to soften the adhesive a bit, to get the fishing line started. You do not need to keep using the blow dryer, once you get about 3 inches down the molding.
4) Keep pressure against the car on the top part of the molding to preserve the molding top edge, in case you want to later re-apply them or sell them. No one can see the bottom edge, so no worries there.
5) Once you get enough of the molding unstuck from the car, just get your fingers under the molding snd start peeling the molding by hand.
6) Stick with the fishing line for the small molding on the front fenders. Due to engine heat, they are not adhered nearly as well as the molding on the doors, and the fishing line will cut right through the sticky tape quite easily.
7) Once the moldings are off, use a blow dryer to heat the remaining adhesive tape as you roll it off with your fingers.
8) Use 3M Wax, Tar and Adhesive Remover on a rag to remove any residue.
9) I used Amway Mint Condition polish after the residue was gone, then applied Meguiar's Clear Coat Wax as a final step.
The car now looks longer and lower - I guess it looks the way the designers intended it to look. I never noticed before, but when viewed from the side, the top lines of the body actually "swoop" downwards in the middle which attributes to the car's low look. I never even noticed this before, probably due to the BSMs detracting from the overall shape of the car.

2001 Magentic Red Coupe, factory installed BSMs, and no problems removing, and NO signs of any color difference.
What was very interesting was that when I washed the area later to polish and wax, I noticed the water beaded off immediately from the area where the BSMs were. I wonder if the factory actually waxed the car before putting the BSMs on. Naaahhhh, couldn't be, cause that would've cost money, and if they wanted to spend money, they would've given us lights to drive at night!
I am happy!
BTW, do any of you have door edge guards? My car has them. They are the same color as the car, too. I never even noticed them before until I started removing the BSMs. Are they part of the molding package, or did the dealer install them later? I'm keep those on so in case a passenger or me when not thinking opens the door and hits a wall or something.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Jan 17, 2006 at 09:06 PM.

Wouldn't you want to replace yours instead of removing them? If they're banged up, they must be working!










