paint code for Mag red 2??

But since you said exterior pieces (spoiler, sideskirts?), it really would be in your best interest to leave the car, or at least part of it with them....even leaving the front license plate cover is better than nothing. They have the ability to tint and fine-tune the paint mix to properly match what's on your car, and having something to compare to is very important. Also, being that MR is a metallic, matching up the metallic concentration when spraying is another complication, and impossible to match without something to compare it to.
Chances are if you just give them the paint code, and they mix up the paint to that spec, you'll be unhappy with the match.
It's a two stage color meaning there is a base coat and a red tint (candy color) added to the clear coat.
At the factory the base is almost a copper color with red tint shot over it. A factory paint job even has red tint in the final clear coat.
Aftermarket isn't hard to match, but it requires a painter familiar with two stage paints. Lexus, most pearl colors, all candy colors, etc. are the same thing. A painter needs to know that when he shoots the base it isn't supposed to match up and he needs to know how much candy (red tinted clear coat) to use to blend in the final color match. He has to be an artist with the tint color that's where the color match is. Aftermarket paint jobs will usually spray a final clear coat over the whole thing for UV protection.
I posted the PPG #'s a couple of months ago.
Here's what ya do. First, call your local auto paint supply store and ask them who the best painter in town is - they will know where the talent is. When you talk to a qualified painter, he'll tell you not how long he's been painting and the custom work he's done, he'll have gone to PPG or other factory schools and is current with them. He will be someone who shoots this stuff all day long you will feel comfortable turning over your car. Any foolish questions or nonsense is a red flag to run, don't walk from this guy - you don't want to provide OJT.
It's difficult because there are only a hand full of guys in town that have the skills, knowledge and training. Once you find the right one you'll know. They will not be more expensive! It will just be someone who takes their profession seriously and takes pride in their work.
Good hunting,
PS. Paint codes are always in the glove box and any painter that has been in business for one entire day knows this. Lose this jerk, he's starting to make Earl Schibe look good!
PSS. Crap, I keep forgeting stuff. There are two Mag Red color codes, don't recall the cut off year, but again it's in your glove box.
If you want the PPG numbers, let me know. I had the front and rear of my '02 Mag Red done and it's a **** on match. It's best to take the parts off so there isn't a tape line as a noticable repaint may affect your vette's resale value.
Last edited by BuckyBoy; Jan 17, 2006 at 09:15 PM.
Been doing a bit more research and found out there are two Corvette 86U Mag Red's out there. One was applied by Corvette in '99 and little into '00. The other is called magnetic red II. Your glove box will tell you a color code starting with WA and that's how you'll know for sure what red you have. A number of aftermarket manufacture's make tri-color paint to match. For the WA 379E, for example PPG makes it (Deltron DBC, or 2000) the base color is 5402/1 they recommend 3 coats over a charcoal primer, then 5402/2 which is a red tinted clear coat (about 95% clear and 5% red tint, then that's lightly sanded and covered with at least 2 coats of regular clear for UV protection. Basically it's exactly how one shoots a candy apple red. The tint coat is what produces the luminesense or pearl glow - if you like that term better.
I was a little wrong here... the factory application may be a tri-color application, but aftermarket is only base + red tinted clear + clear. There is also a good chance your painter won't apply a primer coat, that's okay to skip in most cases. I wouldn't share this with your painter, rather let him tell you what he's going to shoot and use this to check if he's talking the talk correctly. A good painter won't ask YOU any questions.
Lastly, take a good look at the current match between your bumpers and the body now. It's probably a little off because they are different materials. It's just a a fact of life that rubber paints and refracts light differently than metal or fiberglass, etc. He'll get close, but be realistic by looking at the stock match now to his final result. Also he will color sand to either match factory orange peel (which is considerable in stock vettes along the sides). Or he can sand it smooth as a baby's butt more like the trunk/hood/plastic convertible panel... or you can him color sand the entire car and knock 'em dead at car shows - your choice. Just remember you have finite clearcoat and color sanding removes it.
PS... who says Vette owners are **** about their paint jobs!!!!
Last edited by BuckyBoy; Jan 17, 2006 at 09:41 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


It helped us figure out ahead of purchasing our 2000 that it WAS a Magnetic Red II (especially since some 2000's were Magnetic Red I)
http://www.sunsetvette.com/magred/vi...f2f631b4146c24

The old cliche "you get what you pay for" definitely applies here. Most applications are 3 stage however ICI autocolor has the tinted clear formula. Also any good painter should have a book of sprayout cards that he makes for each color he has painted. Example, I could show you mag red 2 sprayout cards that I have that needed to be tinted for each particular car I have painted. I write the tinting info on the back of the card then compare them to the next mag red 2 car I get in the shop. If any of them match up, it saves me a lot of tint time. If not, I'll tint to match and end up with another mag red 2 variant to add to my sprayout deck.
















