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Wipe down or spray engine... who's right?

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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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Default Wipe down or spray engine... who's right?

O.K. I know there are many threads on how to clean the engine compartment, but I still can't make up my mind. My engine compartment has become less than "aestheticaly pleasing" after driving here in NE Georgia (didn't help with the stealership spraying the whole engine compartment with silicone spray). Has anybody had any horror stories with using a mild degreaser/water mix and a hose?

Thanks,

John
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 03:40 PM
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Default Have had no regrets...

I just pressure wash about twice a year and spray on some WD-40. There are some plastic/rubber areas that I hit with Amor-all.
Have had no regrets...
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gimme5
I just pressure wash about twice a year and spray on some WD-40. There are some plastic/rubber areas that I hit with Amor-all.
Have had no regrets...
I betting the farm that you are putting plastic over the alternator and removing open air filter if you have one... but have you had any problems with any of the remaining electrical systems after pressure washing?
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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I haven't had to do a thorough wash on the Vette yet but I did wash my Tahoe's engine and I just sprayed it down with simple green and then just rinsed with a light spray of water. Detailed the larger parts with VRT which is a greaseless armor all type product. I then used a product called In And Out Spray from Adam's Polishes for the hard to reach areas. It's an aerosal detailer for plastic and rubber, but its not greasy. Works great and I highly recommend it. Left the engine looking good as new.
Check it out.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/site/pr...40B6FFCEE98F3B
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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I recently detailed the engine compartment of my new '02 vert using the same basic routine I always have with my other cars. Let the engine warm up, spray Simple Green, let sit for a half an hour, then pressure wash, wipe down and hit the rubber with Armor All. I was careful where I directed the spray and took it easy around the alternator and battery compartment, but other than that, nothing special.

Came out great and no problems with ill-running afterwards, either.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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Let engine warm up, with engine still running spray on degreaser/detergent, let soak fo 10-15 minutes. Pressure wash entire bay. No problems whatsoever. Car has just over 24K, and when people see the engine bay they ask if I ever use the car.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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If you have a compressor blow it down, as mentioned use Simple Green if you have to wash it down. When it is dry and cool..spray on Stoner's Trim Shine. Spray your coves with it, spray your wheel wells with it...you can even spray your inside door panels...you'll love the new look

Last edited by SLPRC5; Jan 24, 2006 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 04:59 PM
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I like simple green, myself
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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I agree, warm engine, spray on some Simple Green, let soak, then use a gentle stream of water to rinse. An air compressor to blow off the water works well.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:33 PM
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The worst possible thing you can do is pressure wash your engine... there have been hundreds of cases where the knock sensors get shorted out, because of this... It can be very costly to pressure wash your engine.. My engine looks as good or better than the day I bought it.. IT has never seen water.... I use compressed air and wipe everything down with quick detailer.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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I use that Mr. Clean hose attachment on the filtered water setting.
Just mists on, very controllable.
Do this with every body wash on cool engine.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by screw991le
I like simple green, myself
...........good stuff
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
The worst possible thing you can do is pressure wash your engine... there have been hundreds of cases where the knock sensors get shorted out, because of this... It can be very costly to pressure wash your engine.. My engine looks as good or better than the day I bought it.. IT has never seen water.... I use compressed air and wipe everything down with quick detailer.


1998-2002: Service Bulletin: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set
Subject: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor)
Source: Chevrolet Dealer Technical Service Bulletin
Number: 02-06-04-023

Models: 1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, 1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)

1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Avalanche, Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL) with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)

Condition:

Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.

Cause:

This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.


Correction:

Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.

Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

Remove the rear bank knock sensor.

Install the new rear bank knock sensor. Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).

Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.

Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.

From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Parts Information:

Part Number
Description
Qty

10456603
Sensor, Knock
1
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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If you don't listen to E.T. or Patches on this topic (and most others) You're crazy. I would never pressure wash my engine with all of the electronics and computers under there. This is not a 70's muscle car and I wouldn't treat it as one. My engine is spotless. I have a '97 with 59,000 miles on it and it will never see high pressure water.

Paul
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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Shop Rags and a mild solvent do wonders.
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 07:50 PM
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No pressure washy!!
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by talon90
If you don't listen to E.T. or Patches on this topic (and most others) You're crazy. I would never pressure wash my engine with all of the electronics and computers under there. This is not a 70's muscle car and I wouldn't treat it as one. My engine is spotless. I have a '97 with 59,000 miles on it and it will never see high pressure water.

Paul
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Old Jan 24, 2006 | 08:30 PM
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From: "This is not a psychotic episode, but a cleansing moment of clarity."
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I bow to the collective wisdom of those with more experience and knowledge on these engine bays than I have.

I'll chalk off my recent engine wash as a lucky break, beginner's luck, etc. I only lightly rinsed it with the pressure washer, but now that it is CLEAN it will be easier to maintain with rags, detailer, etc.

Time to install that front engine compartment seal and make life easier...
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