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you want to cut one piece about 3 ft long, the second about 1.5 ft long.
bevel one edge on each peice at a 45% angle. put one on top of the other .... have the two blunt edges flush... that gives you one " step " of 18 inches and a second higher step of 18 inches.
nail or screw them together.
repeat for the other side.
now you can drive up ( via the bevel) on the first board, proceed 18 inches forward( driving up the second bevel) and you are on the second board.
This 4 inch lift should let any floor jack get under the car and its a lot cheaper than buying a jack.
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
I use sear's 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack (only 3.75" high) #0950240.
However, there have been reports of failures of Sear's larger racing jack (2 or 2.5 ton?) and of low hydraulic fluid in the one I use (I added 2 oz after initial level check being ok), though no leaks and have used it numerous times.
BTW, here's a write-up I did which also explains how I use the above jack:
Well, I use the Craftsman jack that I bought at SEARS. I can get under my car with a little work...and yes, my car is lowered on stock bolts.
I think I have the same 1.5 ton Sears Aluminum/Steel low profile jack. It will fit under the panels on the sides at the jacking points, but with a jacking pad in, I'm not sure it will. Does yours fit under with or without jacking pads?