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And to add onto JeepTJ's advice, tighten in a cross-star pattern...not around in a circle.
This helps the wheel center itself, and sit flat against the hub.
I still wouldn't say NEVER lube the threads, but to find the new torque ratings, you'll need a bunch of studs to experiment with. You'd torque them till they broke, and keep going until you have a good statistical number of results listed, then you'd back off about 10% and that'd be your torque rating for that particular lube.
NEVER LUBE LUG NUTS. My neighbor lubed his, in a few weeks he had his car flatbedded, he thought his transmission was bad, all his wheels were loose and making noises! Use a wire brush to clean lug stud threads.
NEVER LUBE LUG NUTS. My neighbor lubed his, in a few weeks he had his car flatbedded, he thought his transmission was bad, all his wheels were loose and making noises! Use a wire brush to clean lug stud threads.
I don't want to see this turn into a battle of the nuts .....<G>
I received my license as a Motor Vehicle Mechanic here in Ontario in 1964. That's a five year apprenticeship before you write for your ticket. I wouldn't want to guess how many wheels I have had off and on over these many years. From Volkswagens to Mack trucks to Corvettes, as I said in my earlier post, I have never lost a wheel because of using Never-Seize.
I'm guessing you have never had the pleasure of removing wheel nuts that haven't been off a Chev pick-up for four or five years.
I agree on the anti-seize. Been a mechanic for 35 years. Never had a problem with nut coming loose.
I agree, the nuts won't come off, as quite the opposite happens:
Anti seize will give a false torque reading. For example, you will show 100 ft Lbs on the torque wrench, but probably have 120 ft Lbs on lug. Corvette manual, and other auto manuals specifically caution using lubricants or anti seize on torqued fasteners.
The wrench can only measure rotational resistance and clicks to indicate that you are at a pre-selected setting. The wrench does not measure pressure against the surface and fastener. A torque measurement on a fastener actually indicates how much the metal distorts given a particular pressure. Using a lubricant and the same torque setting as non-lube will overstress the fittings.
We recently rebuilt a Turbo Supra engine, and installed high strength head bolts. The instructions indicate torque settings "dry" or specific lower settings (about 20% less) with molylube.
I just turn them until I nearly **** myself and that always ends up being just right. It's quicker.
You should always use a torque wrench, you can warp rotors on some cars (not sure about Corvette, but Hondas are commonly warped this way) by uneven torquing. This will cause pulsating brakes.
You should always use a torque wrench, you can warp rotors on some cars (not sure about Corvette, but Hondas are commonly warped this way) by uneven torquing. This will cause pulsating brakes.
You are correct if it is uneven. I don't think it is uneven when I do it. If I did I would use a torque wrench.
Are you guys kidding me, am I the only guy left in the world who does not use a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.
Oh well. I know it is the best thing to do, I am not arguing there.
So don't do as I do, do as they say. How is that??