My 2003 did.

 

If you do not want the canadian vette's lights on, just pull the e-brake up one click, it stops the Auto lights from coming on. Work on american cars, try it on the canadian cars

 

because your corvette was made for the USA not Canada. Vettes exported to Canada cannot turn the twilight sentinel off via the DIC.
Pull the fuse, get the dealer to deprogram it or use the resistor method.

Here is the resistor method

It turned out to be VERY easy to do. The only minor difficulties I encountered were:
a) due to the limited distance I could pull the sensor and its lead from the wiring harness out to facilitate working on it (about 4"), and

b) the fact that one has to work in fairly close quarters down low at the base of the windshield. To make this easier, I moved the seat(s) as far forward as possible when actually doing the work.

Following information obtained on the forum, I did it as follows:

1. I used a CREDIT CARD to 'work'/loosen and 'pop out' the dash top defroster grill..

2. The Twilight Sentinel (TS) sensor itself comes in a base/housing that plugs into a female socket on the left hand underside of the defroster grill. It simply screws into its defroster grill socket, requiring only a 1/4 clockwise turn to 'lock' it into place like (eg.) a tail light bulb into its socket.

3. Before I did ANYTHING (even unscrewed the sensor from the grill), I tied some *black* fishing line (about 4 feet worth) around the ACTUAL WIRE connecting the sensor to the harness, ***JUST IN CASE the whole thing should accidentally slip down into the dash during the process***, so I could pull it up again... (THAT WOULD BE A PAIN - the head lights would then ALWAYS be on when the car was running, and trying to fish it out again looked like it would NOT be easy...).

4. I THEN unscrewed the sensor from the defroster grill.

5. THEN, the sensor itself simply plugs into a male connector on the end of the wiring harness lead, so I unplugged the sensor from its harness connector. (I used a small jeweller's screwdriver to release a clip to allow the parts to be separated).

6. I then reinstalled the (now disconnected) sensor back into the defroster grill (for 'looks' only, since it's now non-functional),

7. Next, I bent the leads on a 4.7K OHM ½ Watt resistor that I picked up today (6-pak for $1.49; needed only one), and plugged the resistor leads into the contacts on the end of the male wiring harness connector. (Real nice fit - tight but not too tight).

8. I then taped the resistor/connector up to prevent shorts and provide further insurance against them coming apart, using black electrical tape.

9. I then ***taped the connector to the sensor housing*** , the objective being to help ensure that it wouldn't flop around/rattle/make noise if simply left loose.

10. I then looped and tied the fishing line through a couple of bars in the defroster grill, leaving only about 4" of slack to its tie point back on the wiring harness, and cut off the surplus line with scissors - JUST IN CASE THE ELECTRICAL TAPE SHOULD EVER SOFTEN/COME LOOSE FROM HEAT IN THE CAR and the resistor/lead might decide to separate from the sensor and drop down into the dash as mentioned above and cause noise/be difficult to retrieve...

11. I then reinstalled the defroster grill and 'voila'.

 

Mine will make it 2 for sure.

 

Mine has it but I have disabled it too.