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Car won't start

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:05 PM
  #1  
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Default Car won't start

Sounds like a broken record. Car won't Start
I'm new to the forum, and I picked up a lot of good info on how to replace oil pressure sending unit a few weeks back, I've had my corvette for about four months now, and I'm trying to keep this thing running, but it seems like every time I turn around something is not working on this car. It's an 01 convertible, mag red, black top, no mods. Flat tire on RFT nobody wanted to fix. Finally Hibdon out of Tulsa Ok. plugged it. Oil gauge went to 80 psi., DIC showed 129psi., so I changed out the sending unit, everything worked great. Drove the car last week, 2-15-06, car worked great, went out to start it yesterday, 2-21-06, wouldn't start, lights came on, bells chimed, seat moved, gauges came up on the fuel gauge, and on the volts, radio came on, heater came on, but would not start. So I took most everybody's advice on this forum and tried a new battery, still wouldn't start. My corvette is not a daily driver, I have an 88 S-10 that I use to get back and forth to work and It's on the blink right now, Fuel Pressure Problems, so I'm hoping that I am not possesed and these vehicles hate me, and won't run for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Signed Ron S. in Oklahoma
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:19 PM
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I take it the car turns over and no rumble, eh? Do a search for reading the trouble codes. This should get you in the right direction.

How's the fuel pressure??? My TA had these symptoms when the fuel pump went out.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:24 PM
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Only guessing hear as you do not say what tranny is
If 6spd check and see if clutch safety switch is working. (try moving clutch pedel while holding key.)
Auto, sort of same thing try moving shift lever while holding key on start)
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:34 PM
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You never said whether the car turns over when you try and start it? If it doesn't check you connection and try and jump start it. It's possible you may a purchased a weak battery ( Shelf Life )
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:52 PM
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Here's how to read your DIC.

The IPC display, the 20-character, vacuum florescent screen above the steering column that says "Corvette by Chevrolet" every time you turn on the key is a powerful device.

DIY Service Techs are going to be most interested in the LPG's ability to show diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) for all the modules that transmit them.

The "diagnostic display" mode is entered with the following Procedure: Page 8-500

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the "reset" button to turn off any warning messages
3) Press and hold "options" and
4) While holding "options", press "fuel" four times within a 10-Second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics goes into the "automatic" mode, which shows each module's DTCs in apre-set sequence: (Page No. are for the GM Service Manual)
10 PCNI Powertrain Control Module page 6-357 - 6-361
28 TCS Traction Control system ABS on page 5-86
?? RTD Real Time damping page 3-136
40 BCM Body Control Module page 8-405 LTD Page 8-727
60 [PC instrument Pane! Cluster page 8-508
80 radio page 8-213
99 FIVAC Heater Vent-Air Conditioning page 1-118
A0 LDCM Left Door Control module page 8-904 to 8-951
Al RDCM Right Door Control Module page 8-904 to 8-951
AC SCM Seat Control module page 8-1064-8-1082
B0 RFA Remote Function Actuation page 8-676

For each module, all DTCs will be displayed. If none are present in a module, you will see "no more codes" on the ICP display. There are two kinds of DTCs, "Current" and "History," designated with a letter suffix, "C" or "H". A current code indicates that the malfunction is present in the system whose module is displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed in that module sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it is possible it's evidence of a previous problem. Now solved, that was not removed by clearing codes. More likely is that a history code indicates an intermittent malfunction.

"Intermittent" are the most challenging DTCs. An intermittent may have happened only once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent in its appearance or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the IPC is displaying codes. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not Operating at the time DTCs are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger, which doesn't operate until the BCM detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a system that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a "scan tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the IPC has displayed all 11 modules, the system goes into the manual mode, which allows selection of each module, using combinations of DIC buttons. The manual mode can also be entered at any time during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except "E/M". Once the IPC displays "manual diagnostics", you may select a particular module by pressing the options button to go forward or the "trip" button to go back.
Once a system is selected and a DTC is displayed, if more than one are present; press "gages" To move forward or "fuel" to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M". If you want to erase or "clear" codes, press "reset". Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 01:25 PM
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I had the same issue years ago with my first car. I walked down the street to where I knew a neighborhood mechanic. He came up, checked the battery, tapped on the starter, turned the key. Nothing. He poked around a little more, then went back to try starting it again. That's when he realized that when I came home the night before I had left the automatic transmission in Drive.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Sponge Vette
You never said whether the car turns over when you try and start it? If it doesn't check you connection and try and jump start it. It's possible you may a purchased a weak battery ( Shelf Life )


If it's not turning over at all, it could be a security system issue. A dirty key pellet or ignition cylinder can cause this problem. Do you have a second key you can try?
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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How about a bad starter?
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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The car doesn't turn over, no clicking no nothing. I have taken it out of park and put it neutral to try to start it, still nothing. Put it back in park, and tried it again, still nothing, It is an automatic. I have tried both keys on it still nothing. I have tried to jump start it still nothing. I have not checked the starter yet, that was going to be my next check. The DIC is probably over my head, don't know if I can do all those checks, and the bad thing is I don't have anybody here to bail me out if I screw this thing up. Help is greatly appreciated and still needed.
thanks Ron S.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:04 PM
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Ron, try posting in this section that you need someone to come by and help you out. You would be surprised how many helpfull people are in your area that would come check your DIC for you.....

POST IN THIS SECTION <-- Click There

make sure you use a title like....

Who is near XXX(your city), OK and can help me for 10 minutes?

Good Luck
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 10:46 PM
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If you check out a dealer, I would recommend Southpoint, they seem to be a little more passoniate about vettes. Also, the Goodyear dealer at 71st and Memorial will fix your tires as well. Sorry to hear about your problem. I don't know any more than you do. I have had a charge system fault several times and mine never starts the first turn-over. I have yet to get that fixed. Hope you get it fixed!
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 12:12 AM
  #12  
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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I know this sounds crazy, but give it a try. I forgot about this trick.

Take your fingernail or the rough stricker part of a match book and LIGHTLY rub the black raised section of your key. Its possible the car cannot sense the key code thingy. It happened to me on vacation a couple years ago, a more experienced Vette guy showed me that.

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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Guys, I am not going to say that I fixed my car. I am going to say that with all of the info that you guys gave me, We fixed my car. Roughed up the key just a little bit, the black thingy on the side of the key on both sides, and tried to start my car, nothing, but then I beat on the shifter quite a bit and "wallah" it started. I don't know what that sensor is on the shifter but I think that was the problem. Guys a big THANKS for all your help. Couldn't have done it without all of you guys help.
Thanks Ron S.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by rmstukey
, but then I beat on the shifter quite a bit and "wallah" it started. I don't know what that sensor is on the shifter but I think that was the problem.
Thanks Ron S.
That thing is called the nutral safety switch. Best bet it will happen again, at the worse possible time. Sometimes just what you did will get you going. You either have a lose connection or a bad switch. Replace or fix it. Ask someone falimar with a auto tranny for more details.
Good luck.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 12:47 PM
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congrats Check with the auto parts stores for that switch and replace it ....like yesterday. They're not much.
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 05:48 PM
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Guys, I am going to replace that part a.s.a.p., don't want this car to leave me stranded somewhere. Again thanks for your help on this problem.
Thanks Ron S.
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