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How much tire pressure should I be running for the front and back. I have the 17/18" set up. Will I have to reprogram the tire sensors once I get the right amount of tire pressure in the tires? My car is a 2000 C5 if that helps. Thanks!
I have the factory sized tires but they are not runflats. So 30 for front and back in cold weather? How much should I run in the spring and summer? Thanks!
I have the factory sized tires but they are not runflats. So 30 for front and back in cold weather? How much should I run in the spring and summer? Thanks!
Derek
Same. Except if you inflate your tires to 28 psi COLD when it's freezing outside and leave that same air in the tires until it's summer, that 28 psi COLD will have turned to roughly 32-35 psi COLD during the summer heat. COLD means before the tires have warmed up from driving.
For instance, before I drove up to PA I inflated my tires to 29 psi COLD in near freezing temperatures. That night, on the way up, the tires eventually rose to about 31-32 psi. The next day, warmer temps set in at about 55 degrees. Suddenly my WARM temp tires after driving were up at 34-35 psi range. Hope this helps.
How much tire pressure should I be running for the front and back. I have the 17/18" set up. Will I have to reprogram the tire sensors once I get the right amount of tire pressure in the tires? My car is a 2000 C5 if that helps. Thanks!
Derek
Your pressure sensors will adjust to any changes in air pressure. No need to reprogram them.
Rule of thumb when considering tire pressure, the tire pressure recommendation is for the car, not the tires. On the C5 it's 30psi cold...
I'm certainly no tire expert, but wouldn't "switching" from a run flat tire with steel sidewalls, to a non runflat tire, without the steel sidewalls, creates a totally different situation with regards to tire pressures??
It's kinda like comparing apples to oranges... Even thought they're BOTH tires, they're certainly different in construction, which might necessitate a difference in tire pressures??
I'm certainly no tire expert, but wouldn't "switching" from a run flat tire with steel sidewalls, to a non runflat tire, without the steel sidewalls, creates a totally different situation with regards to tire pressures??
It's kinda like comparing apples to oranges... Even thought they're BOTH tires, they're certainly different in construction, which might necessitate a difference in tire pressures??
The center of your tire will still bellow out if it's overinflated or collapse if underinflated.
30 psi cold (meaning the tires are cold, have not been driven on for at least a few hours allowing them to cool down) all the way around, like it says on the sticker on the door.
30 psi cold (meaning the tires are cold, have not been driven on for at least a few hours allowing them to cool down) all the way around, like it says on the sticker on the door.
I think the reason the GY EMT recommended tire pressure is 30 PSI (cold) has to do the presence of thick steel sidewalls in it's construction.
30PSI (cold) in my non-funflat tires, has resulted in a lot of "sidewall flex", because there are no steel sidewalls helping out. This made for a lousy handling car and uneven wear on the outside edges of the tires....due to underinflation.
Based upon my experience, I would recommend 32PSI (cold) as your non-runflat tire pressure...year round.
Good luck.....
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If your sensors are already programmed to the car, then no need to do anything just because you add air. The sensor will pick up the change once you drive the car.