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How important are they? I'm just about to begin the moding process should I pic some up.
YES! If you want to jack up your car you MUST have them. You can use wood blocks at a crossmember - but you have to use it in exactly the right place. Even then you need the pucks if you are going to be doing anything major for stability. the wood blocks are rather close together - the pucks really are a must.
Last edited by Ragtop_Rob; Mar 6, 2006 at 02:59 PM.
I wouldn't say they are a must have for jacking up your car. I have jacked up my car numerous times without them and had no problems, it is important to lift the car in the apprpriate spots. The pucks are a nice and much safer way of doing it, that I do agree.
I do like the wood blocks, but aren't you concerned about it sliding at all when you lift one end of the car to remove the blocks?
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I have a set of the pucks, but the only time I have used them is when the car has been at the dealer and they use their lift to raise the car. For those situations, I'd get a set.
YES! If you want to jack up your car you MUST have them. You can use wood blocks at a crossmember - but you have to use it in exactly the right place. Even then you need the pucks if you are going to be doing anything major for stability. the wood blocks are rather close together - the pucks really are a must.
Rob,
I'm still trying to figure all the steps out to lift a car on jack stands. In your first photo, I can see a couple of the metal pucks, one with a bottle jack under it. Do you pretty much have to use two in tandem (both on front puck points or both on rear puck points), then jack them up a crank at a time, alternating one side to the other, till high enough to place the jack stands, and then lower them down on the stands? I tried reading the many posts on this stuff, including one from theadmiral, but I need some instructions for dummies, like juggling for dummies, ya know? BTW I don't have bottle jacks, just got a Craftsman $99 low profile jack yesterday. Sounds like I need two?
And I have another question for all those who use the wood blocks on the cross members...has the wood split on anyone and scared the **** out of them? Seems to me the wood could easily do that under these tonnage loads. Jon
I'm still trying to figure all the steps out to lift a car on jack stands. In your first photo, I can see a couple of the metal pucks, one with a bottle jack under it. Do you pretty much have to use two in tandem (both on front puck points or both on rear puck points), then jack them up a crank at a time, alternating one side to the other, till high enough to place the jack stands, and then lower them down on the stands? I tried reading the many posts on this stuff, including one from theadmiral, but I need some instructions for dummies, like juggling for dummies, ya know? BTW I don't have bottle jacks, just got a Craftsman $99 low profile jack yesterday. Sounds like I need two?
And I have another question for all those who use the wood blocks on the cross members...has the wood split on anyone and scared the **** out of them? Seems to me the wood could easily do that under these tonnage loads. Jon
Do not feel bad - I went back and forth a bunch of times trying to figure out how not to get squished when I needed to do this. The easiest way turned out to be a bottle jack on the crossmember at thee front, jack it up and put the stands on each side. Then go to the rear where I used a jack on each side with the pucks and raised them equally. My little bottle jack did not go high enough to jack on the rear center of the car - so the pucks were the next best solution.
Then to make sure the car does not slide off I leave the rear puch jacks on the car while all four wheels are off. Actually, the car is so stiff that you can jack the whole side of the car from the rear jacking point.
I almost never need to have all four wheels off the car at one time. In this case I was waiting for my new CCW wheels to arrive and had already sold my old 5 spokes.
It is easy to do, just TAKE YOUR TIME and keep a close eye on everything.
As for the wood, it is important to use a thick enough piece of pressure traeted or hardwood and have the grain run horizontally.
Last edited by Ragtop_Rob; Mar 7, 2006 at 06:45 AM.
There is a DIY regular hockey puck post in archives.
Basically screw or epoxy glue to practice pucks( they are harder) together. Use a screw eye that is the right size to fitinto the slots milled into the rails.
The only issue with using ony pucks as the placement point for the stands is some reports of the frame rails being dented by all the weight of the cars sitting on the small area of the pucks.
I use the wooden lifting pads in an earlier link in this series and leave an extra set of jack stands under the lifiting pucks as my back-up safety plan.
Go to your local BMW parts dept
Part# 51 71 1960 752 plastic Jacking pucks you put them in and forget about them they dont show and dont fall out....
cost about 6 or 7 dollars
The only issue with using ony pucks as the placement point for the stands is some reports of the frame rails being dented by all the weight of the cars sitting on the small area of the pucks.
My 01 has sat on pucks over winter for two winters, no dents or distortion that I've ever seen!!