Why so many plug changes? Seems like a huge waste of time/money/effort.

 

Because I prefer to run copper NGK TR55s, and I know that copper core plugs start to lose their performance around 10-15k, so I want to make sure I'm always running fresh plugs since I do a lot of drag racing. I don't like platinum plugs, since they cause more detonation so the ECM pulls out some timing.

I would much rather buy the lower cost copper NGKs and change them more frequently, then to run the more expensive ones and leave them in longer and risk them getting stuck.

BTW, I do notice a slight improvement in idle quality whenever I put in fresh plugs, as well as slightly better throttle response sometimes.

 

I just found out there was no "aunty seize" on my OEM plugs :mad

 

I've done mine twice this year (NGK TR6's because of nitrous) and the second time around it gets much easier. You learn the tricks....and with the proper combination of u-joints on your extensions it can be done in less than an hour.....

 

So how long should we go between plugs? Mine is an 02 with 7k miles (just got it a month ago and will add miles faster than the last owner!!) Jon

 

Are the NGK Iridium the standard plug that comes in a new 2004 Z06? Thanks.

 

If your car is fairly stock I wouldn't even worry about it until AT LEAST 50-60K miles.

 

No more plug changes for me, I really hate self-inflicted pain...

 

Oh great. I am going to try to change mine this weekend if its not raining. Better get some extra beer!

 

 

 

I run AC-Delco Iridum change them 50k.

 

changed my plugs and wires last week, took about 3 - 4 hours. went with the callaway wires, 80+ ohms vs 430+ ohms for the stock ones, and ngk platinum plugs, gapped at .055, the stock ones were at .080. one spec said .050 and another said .060, so i took the middle of the road. i can honestly say that it does run a lot stronger. rolling first gear lights em' up and second puts it sideways. looks like tire-time for some better traction

 

Not true at all! When I took my original plugs out, they had only about 32k on them. They were toast! The platinum pucks were gone and the gap was around .070 to .080! Way out of spec!

The reason why I pulled out the plugs was because my car was on the dyno for a tuning session, and we found 7 degrees of KR. After changing to a fresh set of plugs, the KR immediately went to zero.

I've seen a lot of LS1s with low mileage with plugs in similar shape to mine. Simply put, the OEM plugs are junk and in no way could they possibly go 100k without some serious issues. Mine didn't even make it a 1/3rd of the way there!

 

I also did mine recently on an '02 C5 at 50K - they still looked fine. From my research, it seems most are recommending AC/Delco Iridium Professional plugs - which are what the dealerships recommend. It's easy to replace the wires while your in the hood (double meaning). Suggest the stock "Red" (GM) "performance" wire. Have read posts about guys getting error codes from MSD and some of the other exotics. Over the internet, the plugs should run around $50 and the wires $65. This forum has competitive vendors. I suggest you order new wires so you won't have to worry about damaging your old ones & the cost is peanuts.

Here's some tips:

Over ebay you can buy a plug removal tool which enables you to reach down and pull out the plugs (saves on a lot of bandaids). Rather than try & describe it... here's the one I purchased:

http://cm.ebay.com/cm/ck/1065-29392-...tem=4615378888

If you don't want to spring for a special tool, wear a thin set of gloves and at least get a long pair of needle nose pliars (preferably with a 45 degree crook).


Next definately use hitemp anti-cease (sparingly) on the threads of the new plugs. Use dielectrec grease applied with a Q-tip on the plug tops & inside the rubber boots. Disconnect the wires from the engine first - easy to do with a flat nose screwdriver under the rubber. If you can, get ahold of the metal heat shields use them to pull & wiggle off the plugs - that will help lessen the vacuum and tightening distortion of the rubber where it attaches to the plug. Wiggle don't just pull and never pull by the wire - unless you have a new set of wires standing by, even if you do the wire will break off almost instantly. On the drivers side disconnect the black hose that's in your way - nothing else to disconnect.

Installing the wires temporarilly insert a nylon tie inside the rubber when plugging back in the top portion of the wire to the engine - it will burp out the air and prevent the wire from popping off later. You have aluminum heads. I think the torque to put the plugs in is something like 7-13 lbs - that's damn near nothing. Be careful stripping your threads is a huge no-no and it's easy to do on alum. heads. Always work on a cold engine. When taking out the plugs, if you hit resistance - STOP - and screw back in, then ease back out, repeat as necessary, but never, never keep screwing back out against resistance as that will likely strip the threads and ruin the rest of your day. Putting them back in, tighten them by hand then only about 1/16" more by socket (13 lbs torque ain't much).

Don't change the gap in the iridium plugs they are set at .40 and that's what Chevy wants for these plugs. The iridiums you take out will most likely be at .55 - disreguard that.

That's all I can think of... the learning curve is awsome - now that I have the right tools and everything is greased & lubed, bet I could do the job over again in 30 minutes.

 

I think I'm with you Rsty.....some things I'll tackle, but if its that difficult of a job, then I'll take her in.