Proper Towing?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 450
Likes: 0
From: Northern N.J. NJ
Proper Towing?
Just in case I ever need to be towed, I would like to understand how a tow truck driver should get my vette onto a flatbed. Becuase if he's doing it wrong I want to stop him before damage is done. Can anyone explain the proper technique? My biggest question is how they hook the cable to the vette to pull it onto a flatbed? Where could they possible hook up a cable without tearing up the lower front (or back) of the car? Thanks!
PS: I did a search and couldn't find anything.
PS: I did a search and couldn't find anything.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 47
From: Indianapolis IN
I just had to have my 2002 towed for the first time yesterday. I had been curious how they were going to do it. He hooked the cable to the holes at the front reinforced jacking points on the frame (where you put your jacking pucks) and pulled the car onto the flatbed. He then used the holes at all four frame jacking points to tie down the car once it was on the flatbed.
He did all of that right away without having to do any searching, so it seems like he's towed a C5 before. I actually was pleased with how all of that worked, since I was a little concerned about them hooking onto any of the aluminum suspension pieces.
I don't know if that was the proper procedure, but that's what he did.
As a note, my car is at stock height, and as the car came up to the tilted flatbed, the nose just cleared, and I'm talking millimeters. A lowered car would probably need to use some additional help getting onto the flatbed satisfactorily.
He did all of that right away without having to do any searching, so it seems like he's towed a C5 before. I actually was pleased with how all of that worked, since I was a little concerned about them hooking onto any of the aluminum suspension pieces.
I don't know if that was the proper procedure, but that's what he did.
As a note, my car is at stock height, and as the car came up to the tilted flatbed, the nose just cleared, and I'm talking millimeters. A lowered car would probably need to use some additional help getting onto the flatbed satisfactorily.
Last edited by Bill Baird; Mar 8, 2006 at 11:58 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 785
Likes: 1
From: Middletown PA
Originally Posted by Bill Baird
I just had to have my 2002 towed for the first time yesterday. I had been curious how they were going to do it. He hooked the cable to the holes at the front reinforced jacking points on the frame (where you put your jacking pucks) and pulled the car onto the flatbed. He then used the holes at all four frame jacking points to tie down the car once it was on the flatbed.
He did all of that right away without having to do any searching, so it seems like he's towed a C5 before. I actually was pleased with how all of that worked, since I was a little concerned about them hooking onto any of the aluminum suspension pieces.
I don't know if that was the proper procedure, but that's what he did.
He did all of that right away without having to do any searching, so it seems like he's towed a C5 before. I actually was pleased with how all of that worked, since I was a little concerned about them hooking onto any of the aluminum suspension pieces.
I don't know if that was the proper procedure, but that's what he did.
Since the frame is higher than the spoiler and maybe even the front end, didn't the cable come up against when he put tension on it?
How was the angle of the roll back bed? Did the nose scrape going on?
Funny, I was wondering this same thing the other day. Hopefully if our cars ever need towed, they will be running good enuff to drive them onto the rollback, but if they're running, why would you have to tow them.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 47
From: Indianapolis IN
For pulling the car onto the flatbed, there was a single cable that went between the front tires, and then there was a Y that went to each of the front frame holes.
I'm sure that the cable was rubbing on the front spoiler, but I wasn't too concerned about that - my spoiler hits my driveway every time I go in an out, and so it's not perfect anyway. I did not see the cable hit the nose, but it could have. Since the nose was so close to the ramp, it makes sense that the cable might have made contact. It also could be a good thing that the cable was between the nose and the ramp - it might have kept the nose off of the ramp and avoided a scrape.
When I get the car back from its transmission work (probably next week), I'll get under the car and look around at the holes in the frame and the nose to see how it all fared.
I'm sure that the cable was rubbing on the front spoiler, but I wasn't too concerned about that - my spoiler hits my driveway every time I go in an out, and so it's not perfect anyway. I did not see the cable hit the nose, but it could have. Since the nose was so close to the ramp, it makes sense that the cable might have made contact. It also could be a good thing that the cable was between the nose and the ramp - it might have kept the nose off of the ramp and avoided a scrape.
When I get the car back from its transmission work (probably next week), I'll get under the car and look around at the holes in the frame and the nose to see how it all fared.
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towing stories.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 741
Likes: 47
From: Indianapolis IN
I just wanted to report back in - I got my car back today, and took a look underneath to see if the car had suffered any because of the tow. Everything looked cool - the holes at the frame jacking points looked fine, and the nose had not scraped. Life is good.
I do hope others chime in on this thread as well. It's a little disheartening to think that of all the C5s owned by people on this forum, that mine is the only one to have had to been towed! :o
I do hope others chime in on this thread as well. It's a little disheartening to think that of all the C5s owned by people on this forum, that mine is the only one to have had to been towed! :o
Burnout
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,438
Likes: 12
From: South Surrey (White Rock) British Columbia
Towing
Originally Posted by EZEDDIE
Agreed. Hope someone gives up the 'low down'.
Driver provided 2 -10" planks about 6 ft long and I drove it on until he could hook up the cable.
He tied it down from the front and rear cross members.
Easy as pie! no damage he said he 'd done it before.
mrgil
Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: CA
I have a friend and Corvette owner here in town that owns a large body shop and a towing service. He has a roll-off (flat bed) tow truck and he carries a couple of 2x10's about 4 feet long just for vettes. He says by bridging the gap at the end of the bed he can load them without touching any spoiler parts. He says it does depend on type of tow truck bed height your tow company may have, as some are higher than others, and will have a steeper angle when loading.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 450
Likes: 0
From: Northern N.J. NJ
ttt. Hopefully, more folks will comment. So far, it looks like they should always use boards, run a 'Y' cable under the center of the car and hook to the front jacking holes. Sound right?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I drive a tow truck and I own a vette. Here is how I would tow my own vehicle.
Everyone is right on those 2x10 ramps....they are a must to avoid drag onto the flatbed. Most towing outfits have V chains on the end of the winch, but the good ones will have the nylon strap V chain to avoid scraping or gouging your spoilers as they slide on the bottom of your bumper. If they dont....the driver should put a block or 2x4 between the undercarrage and the V chain to lower the V chain away from the car and create some space between the two so when it gets loaded there is no scraping of bumpers or spoilers.
Securing it can get sketchy when trying to chain down the car. Unless the driver is sure he has chained it to frame hole...it is always best to wratchet strap the wheels down to the end of the flat bed OR go though the rim with a nylon strap the end of the flatbed. Way too much aluminum and sensative material down there to be slapping a j-hook to anything. You see a tow truck driver come at your vette with a j-hook....slap him immediatly and send him away.
Hope this helped....sorry if I typed too much.
Everyone is right on those 2x10 ramps....they are a must to avoid drag onto the flatbed. Most towing outfits have V chains on the end of the winch, but the good ones will have the nylon strap V chain to avoid scraping or gouging your spoilers as they slide on the bottom of your bumper. If they dont....the driver should put a block or 2x4 between the undercarrage and the V chain to lower the V chain away from the car and create some space between the two so when it gets loaded there is no scraping of bumpers or spoilers.
Securing it can get sketchy when trying to chain down the car. Unless the driver is sure he has chained it to frame hole...it is always best to wratchet strap the wheels down to the end of the flat bed OR go though the rim with a nylon strap the end of the flatbed. Way too much aluminum and sensative material down there to be slapping a j-hook to anything. You see a tow truck driver come at your vette with a j-hook....slap him immediatly and send him away.
Hope this helped....sorry if I typed too much.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: hilton head is. sc
Originally Posted by smizzz
I drive a tow truck and I own a vette. Here is how I would tow my own vehicle.
Everyone is right on those 2x10 ramps....they are a must to avoid drag onto the flatbed. Most towing outfits have V chains on the end of the winch, but the good ones will have the nylon strap V chain to avoid scraping or gouging your spoilers as they slide on the bottom of your bumper. If they dont....the driver should put a block or 2x4 between the undercarrage and the V chain to lower the V chain away from the car and create some space between the two so when it gets loaded there is no scraping of bumpers or spoilers.
Securing it can get sketchy when trying to chain down the car. Unless the driver is sure he has chained it to frame hole...it is always best to wratchet strap the wheels down to the end of the flat bed OR go though the rim with a nylon strap the end of the flatbed. Way too much aluminum and sensative material down there to be slapping a j-hook to anything. You see a tow truck driver come at your vette with a j-hook....slap him immediatly and send him away.
Hope this helped....sorry if I typed too much.
Everyone is right on those 2x10 ramps....they are a must to avoid drag onto the flatbed. Most towing outfits have V chains on the end of the winch, but the good ones will have the nylon strap V chain to avoid scraping or gouging your spoilers as they slide on the bottom of your bumper. If they dont....the driver should put a block or 2x4 between the undercarrage and the V chain to lower the V chain away from the car and create some space between the two so when it gets loaded there is no scraping of bumpers or spoilers.
Securing it can get sketchy when trying to chain down the car. Unless the driver is sure he has chained it to frame hole...it is always best to wratchet strap the wheels down to the end of the flat bed OR go though the rim with a nylon strap the end of the flatbed. Way too much aluminum and sensative material down there to be slapping a j-hook to anything. You see a tow truck driver come at your vette with a j-hook....slap him immediatly and send him away.
Hope this helped....sorry if I typed too much.
This is correct-had mine towed yesterday and he used straps on the rear wheels. Should never use cables on the rear.
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Very good information here. So far haven't had the need to get the car towed, but you just never know. 