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If they are like my rims, there is no amount of buffing or chemicals that is going to work. The only solution is to strip them, sand them down and re-polish or have them professionally re-polished. Not really cost effective on these wheels.
If they are like my rims, there is no amount of buffing or chemicals that is going to work. The only solution is to strip them, sand them down and re-polish or have them professionally re-polished. Not really cost effective on these wheels.
I agree. stripping, wet sanding and polishing is the only way to restore badly oxidized rims. If you want to tackle the job yourself, buckle up because it's a LOT of work. I have no professional training, but mine came out great. Having them professionally done is (I agree) not worth the money. I have posted instructions on how to restore nasty rims, so give it a shot if you dare. Good luck.
I agree. stripping, wet sanding and polishing is the only way to restore badly oxidized rims. If you want to tackle the job yourself, buckle up because it's a LOT of work. I have no professional training, but mine came out great. Having them professionally done is (I agree) not worth the money. I have posted instructions on how to restore nasty rims, so give it a shot if you dare. Good luck.
I've seen your write up. Great results. For me, not worth the time. I'm going to use them as 'winter wheels' and pick up a new set of something. One of my thin spokes was also repaired in two spots (cracks). Another reason why I won't tackle the job. They do look good all shined up though.
I've seen your write up. Great results. For me, not worth the time. I'm going to use them as 'winter wheels' and pick up a new set of something. One of my thin spokes was also repaired in two spots (cracks). Another reason why I won't tackle the job. They do look good all shined up though.
I think that's a really good idea. There are some really nice aftermarket wheels out there, so take your time and pick out a set of beauties!
As others have mentioned, if the pitting is into the clear coat, or worse yet, through the clear coat and into the metal, the only way to remove it is to remove the clear coat, wet sand and polish the pitting out, then re-apply clear coat...
After reading this thread, I decided to take a look at my barrels..
Some small pitting in a few places, and definitely dirty.
I think I will clean them as best I can, sand the pitting areas as smooth as I can get them, and then paint them mag red to match the body of the car.
When the clear coat has been compromised by salt and other contaminants.. it creates an ugly mess. The clear coat on the barrels at this point is useless. you might as well strip it off and sand #800, #1000, #2000 grit then polish and add a sealant.. the best advice I could give you is to only do one wheel. it might take two hours or more.. but once you get it right it will be much easier in the future.. problem with clear coat is that the thickness over time diminishes and once the clear is compromised, contaminants get under the clear coat and the spots and oxidation get. bigger. Ive had unprotected sex ( ermmmmmm ) unprotected aluminum wheels for 20 years.. they look as good today as the day I bought them, 20 years and 100,000 miles.
Dont look at this job as 4 wheels.. look at it as doing one wheel right. its labor intensive.
Bill aka ET
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