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When I first bought my baby, I thought she needed a brake job. There was a vibration much like you get when the pads are shot, but no grinding or noise.
I pulled the pads, they were only about half worn. I went ahead and replaced the pads and rotors as well and everything was fine. Now I've driven it about 10,000 miles and the same thing is happening. I just pulled the pads and they're fine. They don't look as if they have much wear at all but I'm getting this same vibration. The rotors look fine. They don't appear to be warped, they have no groves or score marks. Everything looks just fine...but when I put on the brakes the entire car vibrates.
stand on them hard!!!!!! dont come to a complete stop. let them cool for a 1/2 mile or so...... then touch the brakes. you more than likely have build up of pad material on your disc's. mine do this every so often. i just come to a hard stop.. without stopping all the way (that will allow the pad to attach the crud again) and the next time their is no vibration to the brakes sounds silly but works
stand on them hard!!!!!! dont come to a complete stop. let them cool for a 1/2 mile or so...... then touch the brakes. you more than likely have build up of pad material on your disc's. mine do this every so often. i just come to a hard stop.. without stopping all the way (that will allow the pad to attach the crud again) and the next time their is no vibration to the brakes sounds silly but works
I'll try that but I don't seem to have any crud on my rotors. Not exactly sure what it's supposed to be cleaning off.
I had this problem until I drove the Tail of the Dragon in North Carolina last Oct. I was hard on the accelerator and brakes, out and back, to the point of smelling those guys. No problem to this day and I have put another 5,000 miles on the odometer!!
My guess is warped rotors. I am pretty sure my rotors became warped from washing the car as I have to drive to a car wash place and I always see a bit of steam each time I start spraying the car.
You need to put a dial indicator on them and check the run out. Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts ? Improper lug nut torque is the #1 cause of warped rotors.
Check for brake material transfered on rotors. If it is there use sandpaper to remove and then clean them afterwards (brake cleaner).
My guess is warped rotors. I am pretty sure my rotors became warped from washing the car as I have to drive to a car wash place and I always see a bit of steam each time I start spraying the car.
rotors dont actually warp. fyi.
i dont feel like getting into it but essentially it's a difference in thickness of the surface of the disc that creates this "warped" feeling.
.. if it does vibrate terribly, you can pull the rotors and have them machined .. once you do that re-brake them in and they should be fine.
otehrwise you might have an issue with the caliber slider .. re-greasing those every brake change helps as well.
You need to put a dial indicator on them and check the run out. Did you use a torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts ? Improper lug nut torque is the #1 cause of warped rotors.
Check for brake material transfered on rotors. If it is there use sandpaper to remove and then clean them afterwards (brake cleaner).
who actually uses a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts? .. star pattern and follow normal tightening procedure.
It does work, but I find that the problem returns pretty quickly after the fix.
thats another excuse to do some spirited driveing again
like i said earlier mine do this every so often!!!! then i stand on it hard again and it goes away for a while lots easier than tearing it down. and keeps the rotor thickness from being messed with i have the slotted and drilled rotors. they are supposed to help keep this from happening....... they dont!!!!
who actually uses a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts? .. star pattern and follow normal tightening procedure.
this IS an important step with any alloy wheel and it makes good sense for saving your lug bolts when removing the lugs later. an impact wrench can easily cross thread and tighten beyond belief!!! as far as warping the rotors i dont know.... i have heard that it can...
I'll try that but I don't seem to have any crud on my rotors. Not exactly sure what it's supposed to be cleaning off.
pad dust/ material will build up in spots. it can look just like the metal of the rotor. the pads are semi metallic. the dust/material bonds to the rotor causeing high and low spots. causeing a uneven disc surface. causeing the pulsating you feel. most all rotors that are turned are done to remove this stuff rather than a warped disc.
who actually uses a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts? .. star pattern and follow normal tightening procedure.
I do!!! After getting new tires put on and the shop not torquing the lugs on correctly, my rotors became warped as well. Now, I do everything myself and make SURE I use a torque wrench. This isn't your father's Oldsmobile my man!
In a way you're absolutely right, though.....the torque wrench was a completely useless invention; a quick money-maker that the industry picked up to make us average Joes run out and buy them.... They post torque values for a reason
Oh, as a final point......you say to "follow normal tightening procedure".......normal IS using a torque wrench!
this IS an important step with any alloy wheel and it makes good sense for saving your lug bolts when removing the lugs later. an impact wrench can easily cross thread and tighten beyond belief!!! as far as warping the rotors i dont know.... i have heard that it can...
Too much of a coincidence for me to NOT believe it. I drove nearly 20,000 miles without a vibration. Shortly after having my new tires put on, the vibration showed up. If you've done a brake job on the C5 yourself, you can very easily see how this would happen.