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[Z06] Clutch Engagement

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Old May 17, 2006 | 07:13 AM
  #1  
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Default Clutch Engagement

When I get on the car aggressively in 1st, when I shift into second the location where 2nd engages is much lower toward the floor. After a few more normal shift, the point of engagement goes to a more "normal" location.

Any ideas why this is happening? I do have 70K on the car and have never changed the clutch.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 07:19 AM
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70K miles from a clutch in a Z06 is quite good.

But as for your issue...suggest checking your clutch fluid. It's probably nasty and badly in need of regular changing.

Here are a couple threads to read.

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6Z06 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger
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Old May 17, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
70K miles from a clutch in a Z06 is quite good.

But as for your issue...suggest checking your clutch fluid. It's probably nasty and badly in need of regular changing.

Here are a couple threads to read.

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6Z06 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger
I have around 63k on mine, original clutch, but under heavy use, the clutch is staying near the floor, normal driving no hang no nothing. I have read and been told, this problem is due to a weak slave, not the fluid but I do the reservoir purge every two weeks anyway. Any validity to this being the slave, not the fluid degradation? I ask because I am getting ready to drop the whole thing and put in a Spec II assembly with new master / slave / bleeder and hardened output shafts etc since it has to come out to do the slave anyway, just go back new while it is down.

Last edited by sikpuppy; May 17, 2006 at 01:09 PM.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 01:21 PM
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check the big black spring, just below the pedal..many have removed that , and claim it improves release travel of pedal back up from the floor..
, or just replace it with a new one..
there have been a bunch of threads on it, or on the other site....
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Old May 17, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sikpuppy
I have around 63k on mine, original clutch, but under heavy use, the clutch is staying near the floor, normal driving no hang no nothing. I have read and been told, this problem is due to a weak slave, not the fluid but I do the reservoir purge every two weeks anyway. Any validity to this being the slave, not the fluid degradation? I ask because I am getting ready to drop the whole thing and put in a Spec II assembly with new master / slave / bleeder and hardened output shafts etc since it has to come out to do the slave anyway, just go back new while it is down.
My advice is to replace all the clutch components, every last one. Leave nothing to chance. Labor is around half the cost of a clutch replacement.

Four small suggestions to those facing a clutch replacement.

(1) Seach the archives (C5 Z06 and C5 Tech) for the words "clutch" AND "vibration" because there is a history of post-clutch-swap woes you need to be aware of.

(2) Choose your installer carefully. If you don't, the odds are good that you will not be happy with the results. You want a technician with a lot of (favorable) experience in swapping C5/C6 clutches.

(3) Insist that the new clutch assembly be sent to a reputable machine shop for balancing before the installation. Do this even if the installer insists it is unnecessary, "because it comes balanced by the manufacturer."

(4) Before you drop your car off for the installation, be very careful to memorize how much your shifter vibrates under various conditions.

Anyone that shrugs and ignores this advice has heighten the odds they will end up with notable drive train vibrations, originating from the clutch assembly, and they will have a bad time getting them resolved by their installer or anyone else.

Ranger
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Old May 17, 2006 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
70K miles from a clutch in a Z06 is quite good.

But as for your issue...suggest checking your clutch fluid. It's probably nasty and badly in need of regular changing.

Here are a couple threads to read.

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6Z06 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger
Hey Ranger,
Thanks for the tip. Got myself a new turkey baster tonight and will change fluid. Mine is black.
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Old May 18, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by sikpuppy
I have around 63k on mine, original clutch, but under heavy use, the clutch is staying near the floor, normal driving no hang no nothing. I have read and been told, this problem is due to a weak slave, not the fluid but I do the reservoir purge every two weeks anyway. Any validity to this being the slave, not the fluid degradation? I ask because I am getting ready to drop the whole thing and put in a Spec II assembly with new master / slave / bleeder and hardened output shafts etc since it has to come out to do the slave anyway, just go back new while it is down.
YOu may want to look into the LS7 set up, my friend just installed it in his Head/Cam Z06, he constantly hits 1.6x 60' times the car drives just like stock (no chatter, slightly more pedal effort but barely noticable). He has had absolutely no issues with sticky or mushy clutch pedal either. This is also a resonable swap cost wise. I will be doing this swap in my car shortly.

I had a SPEC clutch in my C4 and was quite unhappy with it
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Old May 25, 2006 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
70K miles from a clutch in a Z06 is quite good.

But as for your issue...suggest checking your clutch fluid. It's probably nasty and badly in need of regular changing.

Here are a couple threads to read.

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

C6Z06 Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit

Ranger
Replaced fluid and clutch feels MUCH better now. Never would believe changing a fluid would have that much an impact.
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Old May 25, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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Just one owner's opinion...but I'd stay far away from an LS7 clutch. It may be cheaper than others. But I've never driven a Corvette with a clutch as marginal as this LS7 version.

In 500+ passes in C5Z I glazed the clutch twice. On the C6Z I've glazed it at least once every time I'm at the track. And this on much weaker launches than I did in the C5Z. So not a clutch I'd recommend.

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Old May 28, 2006 | 01:29 AM
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Hi Ranger -

This is a good chance to thank you for the tip on changing the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservior.

I have done this twice now and my clutch feels great again - I can launch it!

The fluid in mine was black and gunky - nice and fresh now.

Thanks for the help - I appreciate it!

best regards -

mqqn
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Old May 28, 2006 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by mqqn
Hi Ranger -

This is a good chance to thank you for the tip on changing the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservior.

I have done this twice now and my clutch feels great again - I can launch it!

The fluid in mine was black and gunky - nice and fresh now.

Thanks for the help - I appreciate it!

best regards -

mqqn
Glad it worked out for you, mqqn.

Making that fluid change a regular part of your ongoing maintenance will keep your clutch behaving normally for many years.

Clear clutch fluid is happy clutch fluid.

Ranger
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Just one owner's opinion...but I'd stay far away from an LS7 clutch. It may be cheaper than others. But I've never driven a Corvette with a clutch as marginal as this LS7 version.

In 500+ passes in C5Z I glazed the clutch twice. On the C6Z I've glazed it at least once every time I'm at the track. And this on much weaker launches than I did in the C5Z. So not a clutch I'd recommend.

Ranger
Ranger- what is "glazing" the clutch? After its glazed, does it need replacing?
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Old May 28, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Pio
Ranger- what is "glazing" the clutch? After its glazed, does it need replacing?
When the clutch gets slipped excessively, so much heat is generated that the rotating disc can lose its high coeffient of friction. When this occurs, no matter the clamping power exerted by the pressure plate, the flywheel cannot maintain unity with the rest of the clutch assembly.

In this condition, the clutch slips when the motor is given throttle. I glazed the clutch twice on my C5Z06s. Both times it occurred because I was slow on the clutch release and too fast on the throttle squeeze.

Ranger

Last edited by Ranger; May 28, 2006 at 03:06 PM.
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Old May 28, 2006 | 04:29 PM
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Ranger I just finished up a H/C package on my Z16, and I dont think that the clutch is going to last. I am going to change the fluid and try to make life on it as easy as possible, but if it doesnt hold up which clutch would you recommend???
Seems like every clutch thread I read has a different opion on which is best for a H/C C5 Z06.

Thanks!!!
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Old May 28, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Rowe
Ranger I just finished up a H/C package on my Z16, and I dont think that the clutch is going to last. I am going to change the fluid and try to make life on it as easy as possible, but if it doesnt hold up which clutch would you recommend???
Seems like every clutch thread I read has a different opion on which is best for a H/C C5 Z06.

Thanks!!!
Should I ever decide to depart from the stock clutch, I'd go for a Catek clutch matched to my rwhp at the time and planned increases.

I say that because no other clutch has stood up to the demands of street/drags with very few issues. There are literally hundreds of Cartek-clutch C5s, C5Zs and C6s with 400+ to 500+ rwhp running at the drags with no clutch issues. And these track passes give tough love to the clutch.

There are other clutches that are performing well. But none have the installed-base of the Cartek.

Not sure I'll ever leave stock, but if I do, it would be for a Cartek clutch. You need to call them to ensure the one you buy is matched to your needs.

BTW. I had no affiliation with Cartek. But respect their clutches.

Ranger
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger
Should I ever decide to depart from the stock clutch, I'd go for a Catek clutch matched to my rwhp at the time and planned increases.

I say that because no other clutch has stood up to the demands of street/drags with very few issues. There are literally hundreds of Cartek-clutch C5s, C5Zs and C6s with 400+ to 500+ rwhp running at the drags with no clutch issues. And these track passes give tough love to the clutch.

There are other clutches that are performing well. But none have the installed-base of the Cartek.

Not sure I'll ever leave stock, but if I do, it would be for a Cartek clutch. You need to call them to ensure the one you buy is matched to your needs.

BTW. I had no affiliation with Cartek. But respect their clutches.

Ranger
I'm thinking about the Cartek clutch also, I heard the engagement is like stock but I also heard they chatter. Can anybody who has actually driven one with their clutch verify that?
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Old Jul 11, 2006 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NeverT00Fast
I'm thinking about the Cartek clutch also, I heard the engagement is like stock but I also heard they chatter. Can anybody who has actually driven one with their clutch verify that?
I've got 5 months and 3K miles on one. No chatter ... no complaints so far. The installer did proper clutch break-in for me ... perhaps that makes a difference.
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by bernrex
I've got 5 months and 3K miles on one. No chatter ... no complaints so far. The installer did proper clutch break-in for me ... perhaps that makes a difference.
curious...what exactly is "proper clutch break-in"??
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Old Jul 16, 2006 | 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by LIGHTNING
curious...what exactly is "proper clutch break-in"??
Each manufacturer has specific guidance on break-in. So there is some variation. But generally it involves avoiding hard usage (launches, signifiacant slippage etc) for a specified number of miles.

Ranger
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