When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Inevitable? Is it driving style or product quality? should stock brakes & rotors last only <30kmi on a DD. I had a 2001 conv DD +50kmi before needing a brake job. Didn't get 30kmi out of the brakes on my 2004 Z06. I have read about beddin-in brakes. i didn't do that on the Z or the conv. Are their other methods or techniques which may delay the inevitable?
I've even got clutch/shifter/transmission issues on this Z06.
and my honda lawn mower threw a belt, it seems like i shouldn't get around power equipment?
appreciate your advise on the brakes.
thanks for your help!
One way to reduce the chance of warped rotors is to ensure that the torque values on all your car's wheels are properly set. Same for anytime a wheel is reinstalled.
So you can jack the car up. Loosen the lug nuts and then retorque them using a three step process, say 40-70-100 using a star pattern (e.g. don't tighten two adjacent lug nuts one after the other).
Do all four wheels. Repeat for any wheel that's off the car for any reason.
The biggest culprit is the guy with the air gun installing a wheel. Torque value is never correct and even. So the wheel does not spin truly. Over time the effect of the brakes will then cause warpage.
I've followed this torquing procedure since my 1985 coupe and not had a single incident of warped rotors.
That has worked for me on my Vette's and my Z-28.
Had a set of tires replaced one time right after I had replaced the OEM stock rotors. Rotors were fine when it went in for the tire change.
I forgot about setting the torque on them.... about 2 weeks later.... warped rotors all over again.
Those impact wrenches will way,way overtorque them and it does seem to cause rotor warping.
Now, I take my wheels off and load wheels/tires on my truck and have them mounted. Bring them home and torque them up using the procedure described above.
No problems with them anymore.
I have a torque wrench just for my wheels with a 3/4" socket on it.
You don't mention why you believe your rotors are warped. Do you feel a pulsation in the pedal, or are the rotors simply worn to the minimum thickness? Depending on how you drive, 30K miles might be normal. If you think they are warped, it could be pad deposits on the rotors, in which case proper bedding might might correct it; can't hurt.
At 22K the rotors on my 03 needed replacing. The fronts were warped badly and the pedal pulsated with every stop. The rears were ok and since they arent hardly used anyway I expected that. I just replaced them all with slotted rotors and never looked back..
At 22K the rotors on my 03 needed replacing. The fronts were warped badly and the pedal pulsated with every stop. The rears were ok and since they arent hardly used anyway I expected that. I just replaced them all with slotted rotors and never looked back..
Rotors will warp if the wheels aren't properly torqued. Replacing warped rotors without dealing with the root cause is likely to prompt a recurrence.
Rotors will warp if the wheels aren't properly torqued. Replacing warped rotors without dealing with the root cause is likely to prompt a recurrence.
Ranger
Well all I can do is replace them, torque properly and keep an eye on them from there. I bought the car from my brother in law when it had 22K on it, and they were very hard driven miles and I dont know if the wheels had ever been removed and torqued wrong or not. If it happens again after another 20K miles ill just replace the rotors again as it no big deal and inexpensive also.
If you think they are warped, it could be pad deposits on the rotors, in which case proper bedding might might correct it; can't hurt.
Warped rotors are actually very rare. Stoptech has a very good article on the warped brake myth and bedding in brakes that I can send you if you are interested. Most "warped" brakes are uneven pad buildup over time.
FYI, you can buy replacement rotors at Napa for $25 a pop so replacing rotors isn't all that much more than filling the tank. I've been using these rotors on the track for a few seasons now with no problems.
High or low for that matter - uneven torque values normally doesn't effect the rotation of most manufactured wheels. What it does do is distribute an uneven push / pull effect on the rotor to hub, also dependent on manufacture design characteristics. Sometimes this is evident directly after the operational error is performed by a brake technician or whoever performs this procedure, or it may develop warp age over time. It is always owner responsibly to keep an eye on whoever is performing the procedure. That's why most of us here more then likely do our own repairs. Rotors can also warp when brakes are applied very hard at extreme speeds too. Most repair shops will perform bedding during test drives because they know the customer won't brake them in properly. Another reason most of us perform our own repairs.