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is there a lift you can use on the vette? im wantin to get a stinger cat back and not do the install myself, i'd rather take it to the exh shop, but i'd wanna make sure they knew either what lift to use, if you cant use a lift, i'd rather just do the install myself, (asking this bc i read about the fram being hydraformed dont nkow if there are rules on using a lift on that
I have a Mohawk A-7 lift in my garage. I have the jacking pucks that fit into the lift points when I need to lift the car. I also use some small pieces of 1/2" plywood that I place between the pucks and the lift pads.
is there a lift you can use on the vette? im wantin to get a stinger cat back and not do the install myself, i'd rather take it to the exh shop, but i'd wanna make sure they knew either what lift to use, if you cant use a lift, i'd rather just do the install myself, (asking this bc i read about the fram being hydraformed dont nkow if there are rules on using a lift on that
You don't need a lift to put a stinger system on, I have the Borla "stinger" and installed it myself in my garage with ramps , it took me about 45 min. Although a lift would be easyer. If you do it yourself cut the stock pipes off to make it very easy unless you want to keep them.
Most exhaust shops use 4 post drive on lifts or two post lifts. That way they have access to the complete underside of a car. You will need the pucks for the two post lift. Just show the operator where they go and they will use them. It won't take long so you might as well wait and watch.
Most exhaust shops use 4 post drive on lifts or two post lifts. That way they have access to the complete underside of a car. You will need the pucks for the two post lift. Just show the operator where they go and they will use them. It won't take long so you might as well wait and watch.
Bill
Just make sure they have a drive on lift. Then you will not have to worry about jacking points.
cut the exhaust? it wouldnt bolt up up then woudl it? or is it not a bolt up kit, got to weld it?
He meant cut the stock pipes some where above the axle so you can take them out in peices, so you won't have to roll them out over the axle. (Not what I would recommend.) You catback does bolt up to your exhaust pipes in front of your axle. you need to remove two nuts & two bolts that support your rear sway bar in the middle. Let the sway bar hang down and you'll have enough room to roll the catback out. Of course you will have to get the rear of the car in the air. About a 1/2 hour job.
Oh your question about jacking - don't worry about the foam filled frame, all you will need to do is put a floor jack under the rear carriage and use some high jack stands or back your car up on a set of ramps.
I don't have the head room for a 4-post lift so I opted for the next best. I bought a Kwiklift and it's a good investment if you work on your own vehicle.
I keep a set of lifting pucks in my car - if it needs to go up on a lift I make sure to educate the tech on how they will lift my car, and I supervise the process to make sure it is done the way I want it to be.
For those of you that are new to C5s, there are 2 shipping lock down slots on either side of the car (just below the front edge of the door, and just under the door handle) - the lifting pucks lock into those slots and keep the lift from engaging on the body panels.
Is there a way to use the quicklift for lifting and taking wheels off?
I'd guess no.
TIA
Yes, there is.
Here's the lift completely assembled. Notice the black channel between the ramps, this is called a cross bridge. Jacking and support can be done from it or jack stands can placed directly on the ramp under the jacking pucks.
Go to www.kwicklift.com , they have a lot of photos showing the lift and a great Q&A section as well.