Key fob question
My original rattled, and did not hold the memory overnight. Bought one off ebay about a year ago, worked great until recently, but now same thing: won't work overnight after a few hours. I now notice the rattle that I don't believe was there before. Have made sure it's making good connection, new battery of course, but still no worky.
I don't want to get one every freakin year. Any other ideas? Anyone repair these things?




My original rattled, and did not hold the memory overnight. Bought one off ebay about a year ago, worked great until recently, but now same thing: won't work overnight after a few hours. I now notice the rattle that I don't believe was there before. Have made sure it's making good connection, new battery of course, but still no worky.
I don't want to get one every freakin year. Any other ideas? Anyone repair these things?
They work fine though.....knock on wood
They work fine though.....knock on wood

I also found that 2 of the "new batteries" were dead right out of the bubble pack......have the store test them before you leave.
I did finally get 1 fob to work, still is, but I am fed up
and ordered a brand new one from Fred Beans:
10253839 $85.84
99 Cpe
When I bought a new battery, I had the old one tested and it was still fine. So I have 2 fobs, 2 batteries, 0 keylees entry.
Im sure most of you guys have heard, if you lock your keys in your car, with passive lock enabled, wait for a few minutes, and then shake your car. The doors should unlock. The reason is, the rattle mechanism comes to rest with the keys in the ignition, and the car thinks you have walked away because the car is locked. Once you get that rattle mechanism moving again, the car thinks you have returned, and unlocks the doors. This only works with the passive feature enabled. The newer models dont have passive lock so they shouldnt have this specific rattle mechanism...this isnt to say that those dont have something rattling in them though.
The feature isnt supposed to work from far away, only when you get close enough (within 10 feet or so) to open the doors. Imagine having the fob in your house and everytime you move it the car either locks or unlocks. If you have the horn honk upon lock, the damn horn would be going off all the time. Also, dont use passive lock if you are working on your car (assuming you keep the keys in your pocket). Everytime you go to get a new tool, the car will lock and then when you come back it will unlock (again with the horn sounding everytime)...been there, done that, finally turned the feature off and do it manually. I dont mind...
everyone
Last edited by Stealthy4; Jun 23, 2006 at 12:15 AM.
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When I bought a new battery, I had the old one tested and it was still fine. So I have 2 fobs, 2 batteries, 0 keylees entry.
IF I can get them working, and that is a BIG IF, I will send them back for the shipping cost USP. No guarantees






