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Yet another garage floor question

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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:12 PM
  #21  
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I read somewhere that to test for moisture problems from under the slab, tape down a piece of kitchen plastic wrap (saran wrap stuff) with duct tape, making sure to seal it on all 4 sides. Leave it alone for 48 hours, then check if moisture has collected on the underside of the plastic wrap. If you do find moisture, then its not a good idea to put down tile unless the moisture problem is corrected. I'm sure not an expert (that's why I started this thread), so if you know this info is wrong, please jump in and let us know.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ram965
Okay to clarify for us beginners if I wanted to do the garage floor with tile what is the verdict on the best way to go??? Is it VCT with an epoxy adhesive (Armstrong #S-230) or is it porcelin with the polimer modified thinset?

I live south of Chicago so it does get pretty cold out here in the winters, and do the tiles get slippery when went?
Thanks Guys
There are alot of things to consider to decide which is the best. The porcelain tile is going to last the longest. It is impervious to oils and such, can be had in tiles that are smooth (read slippery when wet or with snow), or in tiles with some texture (read harder to clean). It is very scratch resistant, but impacts from heavy stuff can crack it. There are always tradeoffs. Also, with porcelain, there is the grout that gets dirty. If you want to put something like the bowtie emblem in, it is very difficult in porcelain.
VCT is easy to put in, even using the epoxy adhesive, is inexpensive if you use the standard tiles (not the solid colors. they are called accent tiles and will cost 4-5 times the standard), and are easy to cut if you want to install a pattern. The standard VCT is flat, so it could be slippery if wet, but there are some textured VCT's that would not be slippery, but the same applies to the textured porcelain above. VCT is not as scratch resistant, but the color goes all the way through so scratches can be buffed out.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Blue
I read somewhere that to test for moisture problems from under the slab, tape down a piece of kitchen plastic wrap (saran wrap stuff) with duct tape, making sure to seal it on all 4 sides. Leave it alone for 48 hours, then check if moisture has collected on the underside of the plastic wrap. If you do find moisture, then its not a good idea to put down tile unless the moisture problem is corrected. I'm sure not an expert (that's why I started this thread), so if you know this info is wrong, please jump in and let us know.
That is correct. It is called hydrostatic pressure. There are kits to tell you exactly how much moisture is comming through the floor, and there are some products out that will reduce it if you are over the limit.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 12:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Snidley
There are alot of things to consider to decide which is the best. The porcelain tile is going to last the longest. It is impervious to oils and such, can be had in tiles that are smooth (read slippery when wet or with snow), or in tiles with some texture (read harder to clean). It is very scratch resistant, but impacts from heavy stuff can crack it. There are always tradeoffs. Also, with porcelain, there is the grout that gets dirty. If you want to put something like the bowtie emblem in, it is very difficult in porcelain.
VCT is easy to put in, even using the epoxy adhesive, is inexpensive if you use the standard tiles (not the solid colors. they are called accent tiles and will cost 4-5 times the standard), and are easy to cut if you want to install a pattern. The standard VCT is flat, so it could be slippery if wet, but there are some textured VCT's that would not be slippery, but the same applies to the textured porcelain above. VCT is not as scratch resistant, but the color goes all the way through so scratches can be buffed out.

Agree with the wet factor. My porcelin tiles have a bit of a texture to them but lets just say when the floor is wet, it serves you well to pay attention when you're walking on it as your feet could fly from under you. But keep in mind your average garage floor doesn't get "completely" wet to the point where its dangerous. A little in the winter when snow comes in on the car and when you wash your car outside and pull it in to dry...otherwise the "slipperiness" factor is minimal

PS: I went with black grout so dirt in cracks not an issue
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:00 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Snidley
The standard VCT is flat, so it could be slippery if wet, but there are some textured VCT's that would not be slippery, but the same applies to the textured porcelain above. VCT is not as scratch resistant, but the color goes all the way through so scratches can be buffed out.

I dont know how cheap it is, but i've got Azrock VCT down, it has texture in the tile (the same tile they use in the walmart supercenters near the veggies) and yes, it's pretty hard to slip and slide on it, had it down for 4 years, cleans up well, doesnt have a gloss finish, and pretty durable.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:12 PM
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I put down Mannington VCT tile. Was installed last September. Held up good over the winter (snow, salt, etc) and is doing well in this 100 degree summer heat wave. Here are some pics.



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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:14 PM
  #27  
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That's nice...you guys have younger and better knees than I do...
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Snidley
That is correct. It is called hydrostatic pressure. There are kits to tell you exactly how much moisture is comming through the floor, and there are some products out that will reduce it if you are over the limit.
This is correct also. I had mine tested b/ my epoxy flooring had all be removed due to it bubbling from the excess moisture. I'm told the average is about 4% Mine was double that. Word to the wise...Don't put anything down until you have done one of these tests so you know if you need add some moisture barrier.
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Old Jul 18, 2006 | 02:04 PM
  #29  
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Mr. Snidely,

Can you tell us more about what can be done if you find out that you do have a moisture problem? Are there coatings that can be applied, or does the moisture have to be removed (sounds expensive) in some way?
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