Lug bolts...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,694
Likes: 4
From: Franklin Square Long Island NY
Lug bolts...
I stripped 3 of my lug nuts and bolts this weekend... So I ordered 3 new lug bolts from GM...they only cost $4.25 each. Im pretty sure that you have to just bang them out with a hammer and bang the new ones back in from the other side. Can anyone confirm this? If not please explain the proper way.
Thanks for your help in advance
Dan
P.S.
I got a new set of lug nuts as well...Im pretty sure that was the problem considering all my stock nuts go on and off smoothly unlike the ones i got with my ccws.
Thanks for your help in advance
Dan
P.S.
I got a new set of lug nuts as well...Im pretty sure that was the problem considering all my stock nuts go on and off smoothly unlike the ones i got with my ccws.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 16,135
Likes: 5
From: Newberry FL
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Are you talking about the studs or the nuts? I think you are talking about the studs and to be honest, I would probably just take it to SEARs and have them do it right and be done with it, shouldn't cost to much.
That is just my opnion and as many of us have them, do what you feel is best.
That is just my opnion and as many of us have them, do what you feel is best.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 244
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I would try to not bang the old ones out unless it's a last resort. Too much in the heavy pounding department on that flange and you could possibly wind up becoming familiar with the name Timken (at approx$130.00 a pop) pretty quick.
I know it is more of a pain, but if some tapping with a center punch (tapping, not banging away) doesn't get the old ones out, you might try drilling a hole in the center first, then try to tap them out. You can even rig up a C-clamp as a make shift press (using a large enough socket on the back side) and press them out if you have enough clearance.
As for putting the new ones in, same thing. No pounding. Same reason.
Use the flat side of a new lug nut with some flat washers over the new stud and tighten her down. It will pull the new stud in no problem.
HTH,
Robert
I know it is more of a pain, but if some tapping with a center punch (tapping, not banging away) doesn't get the old ones out, you might try drilling a hole in the center first, then try to tap them out. You can even rig up a C-clamp as a make shift press (using a large enough socket on the back side) and press them out if you have enough clearance.
As for putting the new ones in, same thing. No pounding. Same reason.
Use the flat side of a new lug nut with some flat washers over the new stud and tighten her down. It will pull the new stud in no problem.
HTH,
Robert
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,058
Likes: 9,820
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
The best way to do this is to remove the wheel bearing and place the flange on a vise or some other stable surface. Then with the flange supported by the vise use a hammer to pound out the bolt. Once the bolt is out install the new one far enough to get a lug nut on it backwards. Then use the lug nut to pull the bolt through the flange and then re-install the bearing.
I had one bad lug bolt which I pounded out with the wheel on my 97and sometime later I had problems with that wheel bearing. Besides it wasn't easy since it took a lot of monkeying around to get the bolt out through the back with the knuckle in the way. Would have been easier to pull the bearing.
Bill
I had one bad lug bolt which I pounded out with the wheel on my 97and sometime later I had problems with that wheel bearing. Besides it wasn't easy since it took a lot of monkeying around to get the bolt out through the back with the knuckle in the way. Would have been easier to pull the bearing.
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 23,682
Likes: 9
From: Flagstaff Az.
lug bolts
I just changed all 20 on my vert to the DRM chrome moly ones. If the lugs are on the front you can punch them out but if they are on the back and you don't want to have to drill out the backing plate you will have to pull the hub out. An impact wrench with washers over the lug will cinch them back in easily. By the way I banged mine out with one good rap on each one. They were not in that tight. 
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
One way to get new studs into the hub is to put the studs in the freezer overnight. The metal will shrink slightly from the cold and make the install easier.
When you're ready to install them take one at a time and pass it thru the hole and use an impact wrench to tighten a lug nut threaded on from the flat side, or get a metric nut that fits the threads. Use a couple of flat washers between the nut and the hub.
When you're ready to install them take one at a time and pass it thru the hole and use an impact wrench to tighten a lug nut threaded on from the flat side, or get a metric nut that fits the threads. Use a couple of flat washers between the nut and the hub.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,222
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk VA
don't think you'll have to remove the hub, see if you can fit it back there 1st. I replaced my fronts with 1" Longer ARP Studs and barely had to remove the hub. If you do have to remove them see http://www.jakelatham.com/C5/misc/
as far as taking the studs out. 1 hit with a hammer will pop the old ones out, then slide the new one on put a stack of washers over it and tighten down a lug nut to pull it through.
you can see pictures here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=28
as far as taking the studs out. 1 hit with a hammer will pop the old ones out, then slide the new one on put a stack of washers over it and tighten down a lug nut to pull it through.
you can see pictures here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=28