I have run multiple searches on the forum, but have not found any with my exact scenario.

Here are the details:

When I turn on the headlights, the headlights do not pop-up, nor do they turn on (this is verified, by opening the hood and I do not see light shining below).

If I manually crank the headlights up, and turn on the headlights, once again they do not light up.

If pull back on the headlight lever (flash to pass), the lights will flash. But, if I push the lever forward for bright’s, they still do not light up.

I have disconnected and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner all connectors that I believe that are headlight related, but have had no success.

I have cleaned these connectors on both driver and passenger sides.



I have found many posts referring to the Headlight Control Module (HCM), but I am not sure if this is it or not. Either way, I have also removed the connectors on both ends and cleaned, but no success.



Without a circuit tester, and before I go and purchase one, does anyone have any other suggestions. Or if I do get a circuit tester what I should test.

 

checked fuses?

 

I assume you have already checked this since you mentioned any connections that have to do with headlights, but I had a very similar problem earlier this year that turned out to be the positive battery cable. Just needed to be cleaned and tightened

 

Thanks for the replies.

Yes, I have checked the fuse on the passenger floor and it was good.

Also, I have also loosened and tightened the battery cables.

 

To summarize your problem:

• When headlight switch is turned to Headlight, headlights don't raise and lamps do not go on. Neither Low Beam or High Beam.
• Flash to Pass turns lamps on.
• You checked both ground splice packs on the frame rail (passenger and driver side as circled in the drawing).

I looked through the schematics and the only common denominator is the switch itself.

When you turn the switch to the Headlight position the switch contact provides power to both the Headlight Control Module (to raise the headlights) and the bulbs (to turn them ON). Since neither is happening, they are likely not getting the +12V from the switch contact. Since the left and right lamps have their own grounds it's not likely that both grounds are open simultaneously so your grounds are fine. Also, the Flash to Pass makes a separate switch contact than the normal High Beam switch so since that works it proves that the circuit to the high beam bulbs is working, but only through that switch contact, which points back to a problem with the headlight switch. Since the rotary portion of the switch needs to make proper contact to allow either the Low or High beams circuit to be selected, it explains why you can't turn the high beams on using the switch lever - again the Flash to Pass uses a separate switch to complete the circuit.

Someone commented that they were able to get a faulty switch to work by using a can of compressed air (the kind used for computers) and injecting it in the gap between the rotary switch and the cruise control set button. Try that. If that doesn't work and you're about to replace the switch anyway try spraying WD-40 into the gap since it will clean any grime off the contacts. The last resort is replace the switch.

Let us know if this works.

 

Thank you for your detailed response. I did take your recommendation and sprayed compressed air and electrical contact cleaner in the gap of the rotary switch and cruise control set button, but unfortunately still no success.

If I understand, you are referring to the switch in the column. If so, then I am off to the dealer.

 

I would have said the switch too. I have a buddy that had a similar problem - but he was able to monkey around with the switch enough times that he was finally able to get the lights to come on - but ultimately, he wound up having the entire stalk replaced.

 

I just had the same problem with your exact symptoms. I checked fuses, connectors, battery cables, etc., etc.

Based on a little research, I suspected the headlight control module, but wasn't sure and didn't want to risk wasting $$$ by just throwing a new module at the problem without knowing that to be the problem. Finally bit the bullet and took it to the dealer. As others have suggested, the multi-function switch on the left side of the steering column was the culprit, and had to be replaced.

Let's just say it WASN'T cheap.

 

I had the exact problem almost 6 years ago. I had to drive home that night, after cranking the lights up, holding the Flash-To-Pass while shifting. That was fun.

Mine happened while under warranty, so the W.O. says $N/C.

The dealer listed the Cause: BCM NO GROUNDING HEADLAMP RELAY
Labor: REPLACE AND REPROGRAM BCM
Part: C 9381409 2560

Maybe someone can check that part number to see exactly what was replaced.

Good luck with your fix.

 

If you don't mind saying, how much? I have an appointment to take it to the dealer next week, but they have not yet quoted me on the job.

 

As much as I hate to re-live the moment...

$229.20 for the part, $299.70 labor, and tax of $13.76 for a total of..... $542.66.

I've owned a bunch of cars with that sort of multi-function switch over the years, and put a ton of miles on them, and never had a switch go bad. Never even heard of one going bad until now. It's not like it's an exotic piece of equipment.

Oh well... still love the car.

 

my buddy was having the same problem, he took it to a dealer and they has his entire dash out and all the wiring testing everything. turns out is the the switch on the arm and they wanted 800 to fix it all. he said screw that and found one on ebay, bought it, and then him and i spent the better half of the day replacing it. would have been faster if the girls would have left us alone

so he spent a total of 300 (dealer for diagnosing) + 100 for the part+ 20 in beer and pizza