What should I look for? What things should I check? The car has 75K on it. At that mileage what things are expect to break?

I tried a search and couldn't come up with much.

Thanks for any help/advice!!

 

I have a Word file that I can send you that gives some ideas on what to look for. Shoot me a PM with your e-mail address and I'll forward it to you.

 

I think we all ought to come up with a FAQ for shopping for corvettes, and make it a sticky.

 

 

Maybe this could get us started. I'm too drunk to write anymore tonight.

1. What’s the most important thing to know when looking for a Corvette?

The most important thing is simple – know what you want! There are plenty of corvettes available in the paper, autotrader, eBay, and of course corvetteforum.com. Knowing what you want will help narrow down your search. Have a certain color in mind? Want to keep the mileage under a certain amount? Want something already modified? These are things to keep in mind to keep your searches from returning 1,000 available vehicles.

2. Should I buy a modified vehicle?

This is a personal decision. Some people want to buy a car that is ready to go – a proven performer. There are pro’s & con’s to both stock cars and modified cars. Purchasing a car that is already modified will save some money instead of buying all of those parts new and paying labor charges. On the other hand, if you’re not doing the modification yourself, you really have no idea how the car was put together, and if any corners were cut during installations. Some problems may not be apparent initially but will surface after purchase.

3. What should I look for when purchasing a vette?

If you are not mechanically inclined, it’s a good idea to have an automotive friend come along to check the car out with you. Even if you are an ASE certified technician – having a second set of eyes go over the car never hurts either. If the car is from a private seller, don't hesistate to ask for maintenance records/receipts...no crime in wanting to know if the vehicle has been well-cared for.

Things to consider:

1. Overall driveability – does the car drive smoothly? Start and run fine? Shift through gears smoothly? Accelerate with pep? Does the clutch stick? Etc
2. Interior – It’s no secret – GM leather is not high quality. Regular creases/wear is normal, but are the seats torn up? Burn marks? Does the a/c blow from all vents? Do the windows/power options work?
3. Body – have you run a carfax report to see if it has been in any accidents? Do the body panels line up right without excessive gaps? Does the paint look a lot duller on one panel more so than others? Are the emblems in OEM position?
4. Engine – I’m nosy – I usually look through the fluids to see if they have been changed recently/at all. Any hoses hanging off? Emissions components still hooked up?
5. Undercarriage – look underneath for any major leaks, torn wiring harnesses, excessive mud/undercarriage damage.

4. How do I get the best price?

Have time on your side! The best way to get a good price is to be able to have TIME to wait for the right deal to come along. Know what you want. Compare the vehicle to other like vehicles. Know the KBB/Nada values (to give you a rough price range). Be tactful when making an offer…if someone is asking $25,000 for their vette, don’t be ‘that guy’ who is crass enough to post a message with a $15,000 offer. The seller is trying to get the most amount of money for their vehicle, and you are trying to pay as little as possible – there has to be a happy medium for both of you. If I know I am going to have to fix something on the vehicle – i.e. a cracked windshield, sticking clutch, torn-up interior, I will try and negotiate that into the price. If the seller doesn’t budge and it’s more than you want to pay – move along, there are more vettes out there for your consideration

5. What year vette should I get?

This is another question that is basically a matter of what you want, and what you want to spend. Once again, both newer and older models have pros and cons. Newer models will cost more, but are generally in better shape, and have remaining warranties. An older model may have more miles on it, but cost $10k less than its younger brother. All 1997-2004 non-Z06 corvettes came with the same LS1 engine, with small changes throughout the years (i.e. 01 & up models came with better intakes for a few more hp). To find out all the differences between year models, check out the search function of this website.

 

As the owner of a 98, I can mention a couple of things.

One of them is that only the late 98's had active handling. I really wish mine did, so if that's important to you, I'd make sure the one you're looking at has it.

The second is the dreaded "rocking seat". That's when you stop and the seat moves forward about a half inch. It'll drive you crazy. You can repair it, but it's a PITA (although not particularly expensive).

I personally can't stand wagon wheels. If you're like me, plan on spending at least a grand getting some replacements. That just about will get you to 99 territory where you get thin spokes.

There's also a number of accesories, parts and mods that won't fit, won't work or are different on 97-98's versus the rest of C5's (the new Kenne Belle supercharger comes to mind right off the bat) I haven't really found anything that's a big deal to me, but you need to know about it. One of the most important is the CLB. It sometimes gives problems on 97-98's.

Good luck.

 

Also, no HUD on 98s, but there is an aftermarket one.

 

Jack, this one must be an early '98 because it has no active handling. No big deal. This particular car has thin spokes so I guess he got fed up with the ugly *** wagon wheels too

I'm more concerned with problems that might occur with the accessories, rear, trans etc. I know all about the seat rocking, hopefully this one doesn't do that.

 

As long as you're good with the way the car is equipped, then I'd say go for it. Other than a clogged fuel filter, mine has been completely trouble-free. I've been very happy with it from a reliability standpoint. In fact, I've even heard that some of the later models had more problems with things like the rear and trans than 98's have.

Oh, incidentally, if you happen to see my name on some previous threads about problems with the wheel sensors or a few other things, those were all of MY doing. I don't think it's fair to blame them on the car!

 

There is no passenger side air bag shut off

 

My 98 had to have the rear trans extension shaft seal replaced this past spring, however, I am of the opinion the failure of this part was at least partially my own fault.

I WASN'T DRIVING THE CAR ENOUGH IN THE WINTER!

Other than that, mine has been trouble free at 54K. I did just have a tire pressure sensor go bad but that's not a big deal and fairly common in all year models.

P.S. Mine is white and for sale for the right price......PM me!

 

I think you have to check the fluids, see what the oil color is, is the car really clean and do simple things like turn on the lights, a sloppy clean up will show dirt on the headlamps if they aren't really particular on keeping it clean.

Also run a finger on the paint, it should feel like glass, if it is coarse, the car probably hasn't been kept up that well.

I replaced my rims this year to the c6 z06 rims and replaced the exhaust and the hood to a motor city hood.

Overall I think the model is more stripped down than the later models, but affordability and depreciation is on your side. Depending on what you want to do with the car, the 98-99's are really a great buy.

The other thing working on your side is buying a vette in cold weather climate, not sure where you live but if it's north where many vettes go in the garage over the bad time of year, if one is for sale, it's a hardship sale and you have more buying power. Buy in spring and you will typically pay more for the car. I bought mine in January when people have bills and vettes aren't popular.

Good luck with it, get the one you really have been looking for or you will always feel like you are missing something.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot.../ppuser/217643

 

I think this checklist is a valuable aid...

http://corvetteactioncenter.com/tech/buyform.html

It also helps to have someone familiar with the generation of Corvette being considered to look it over. Reach out to one of the local Corvette Clubs in your area and ask for their assistance. Most of the clubs are more than willing to help out because they will see you as a potential new member!

 

I bought a '98 about a week ago.

I sorta wish I had the HUD, but that wasnt a deal breaker.

(later found out you can add one on anyhow)


I would have liked the Manual, but since its my commuter, I knew I had to get the A4.


but so far its freakin awesome

 

97's and 98's outside mirriors clips are coming loose and the mirror comes apart.

 

98 is a solid year. I haven't heard of any common problems with the
98's at 75,000 miles. The only thing I have heard are the usual problems...

Column lock, oil sensors, rear diff leak

 

I traded my 91 coupe in June for my 98 coupe with 82,000 miles. So far I haven't had any problems and everything is in working order.Do a CARFAX on the car it will help you on the REPORTED HISTORY on the car, but you really need to crawl under and around it to make a better acessment. TAKE your time there are plenty of nice VETTES out there. DON'T be afraid of HIGH mileage if the car has been kept up. If you take the VIN # to a local Chevrolet dealer they can run a service might history for you.