I am going to change the clutch fluid on an '03 Z-06. I have seen several threads on the procedure with differing information on how to do it. One post said to drain completely and wipe with a rag - no worry about air in the lines. Another post said not to drain completely to avoid getting air in the line.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Mini-pump attached to cordless drill and suck away. I perform this at every oil change. If its clear don't bother, cloudy or discolored drain and fill. Drive for about 20 mins. repeat procedure. You will be fine. P.S. you don't get air this way-ever.

 

If you are bleeding the clutch, don't drain the entire system. First, suck the fluid out of the reservoir and clean the reservoir out. The old fluid will still be in the line and master cylinder. Put fresh fluid in the reservoir. Then bleed the system, making sure that you don't draw down all the fluid in the reservoir (that is, top the reservoir up if needed). You bleed a clutch the same way you bleed the brakes, usually a two person job unless you have a speed bleeder installed. Even then, it works better with two people if you are using the old fashioned "open valve - pump - close valve" method.

I have not tried bleeding the clutch on my '03 Z yet. But I have changed the fluid in the reservoir several times. From what I understand, without a remote bleeder installed, it is almost impossible to bleed the clutch as you can't get to the bleed valve. If you figure out how to get to it from the bottom or the top, please post, with a picture if possible.

 

I am not going to bleed the clutch. I just want to change the fluid in the resevoir. Can I drain the resevoir completely and wipe it out and not worry about getting air in the line?

 

Absolutely! Just suck the fluid out, wipe the reservoir clean, pour in clean fluid. That's all there is to it. Oh, and wide the bladder in the cap off also. It gets pretty dirty.

 

After I wipe the resevoir clean and add new fluid, I tap the rubber line a few times to be sure no air is trapped at the bottom of the resevoir. I have seen a small air bubble rise a couple of times.

 

Thanks to all for the information. If anyonw knows of a thread with pictures showing the steps, let me know.

 

Read the next post: Ranger once again explains the why! After reading that info, I will no longer mix fluids. I will now only use DOT 3 in my C5.

 

Just did mine today. Simply took a paper towel sucked all the old fluid out and poured new fluid in. We will see what happens, I did this because my clutch was sticking. Ohh yes and of course i cleaned the container before i filled it up with new fluid.

 

here are three clutch fluid issue threads to review:

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Impact

Clutch Hydraulic Fluid--the Chevy Spec

Clutch Pedal Woes--Fluid Changing Kit
Ranger

 

Sigs,

This is the easiest job there is on the car. It is even easier than opening the car door, sitting in the driver's seat, finding the key hole on the dash and putting the key in. You want it step by step, here it is.

1. Open the hood of the car.
2. Find the clutch master cylinder (it's that black cap in the corner of the engine compartment by the driver's door -- next to the brake master cylinder reservoir which is the white-ish container with the black cap).
3. Put some paper towels or rags around so you don't get fluid on the paint. (brake/clutch fluid eats paint, so be very careful).
4. Remove the cap and the rubber bladder if it doesn't come out with the cap.
5. Wipe the part of the rubber bladder that contacts the fluid clean.
6. With a syringe, turkey baster or other suction device, suck as much of the fluid as you can out of the reservoir. (dispose of the fluid properly -- it's brake fluid, toxic and it eats car paint).
7. With a clean paper shop towel, wipe out the inside of the reservoir. If you can't get all the crap/dirt out, pour in a little fresh brake fluid and wipe it out again.
8. Pour in fresh brake fluid up to the fill line (about mid-way up the reservoir). Do not overfill or it will overflow when you put the bladder back in. Tap the line below the reservoir or the side of the reservoir a couple of times to release any potential bubbles of air in the line.
9. Reinstall the bladder, put the cap on and tighten gently by hand.
10. Pump the clutch pedal a few times to be sure you have good pedal feel, and check the reservoir to make sure you are not leaking any fluid.
11. Close the hood, start the car and go drive the car and have fun.

Simple as can be.

BTW, if you have not changed the fluid in a long time, the fluid in the clutch line will be rather dirty. You might want to do this procedure a couple of times over the course of a month or two to assure that the fresh fluid is getting down into the lines and to get as much of the dirt out of the system as you can. After that, maybe once in the spring, once in the fall, unless you are tracking the car, in which case I'd do it before each track event.

 

I did it today. The car had 5200 miles and had never been changed. The first change was quite dirty - lots of black goop at the bottom of the resevoir. Drove the car a while a then repeated the process. Should be good for a while.

Thanks for all of the information - it was very easy.