Originally Posted by kawasaki eric

How long does it take to install? Any special tools? Do you need to remove anything? Is it a worthwhile investment? Thanks for your input!!

Originally Posted by diynoob

I have installed two on my cars. Didn't remove the tranny or diff on either. Also, I did one on rhino ramps and jack stands and the other on my new lift. Both times it took me a few hours. A basic set of ratchets, torque wrenches, sockets, gear wrenches, etc. will get you through the job. Oh, and don't forget the six pack -- the job is not tough but there are a few odd angles where extensions and joints for the ratchet will be needed.

Originally Posted by BobbyG

Not trying to hijack the thread but how much difference will I see in the cars performance or ability to handle torque? What purpose does this setup afford?

Your comments are greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by DynoTech Engineering

That's a very difficult, open-ended question to answer, because a driveline usually isn't rated on how much HP it can withstand, because HP isn't what breaks parts...torque and application is. However, most can be rated somewhat by what multiplicative TQ through the transmission there will be, vehicle weight, gear ratio, vehicle application, launch RPM and so on to determine what's best for you.

Additionaly, most cars experience wheel hop in some fashion either from a standstill or at the shift~ that will shatter even the best built driveline parts, so you must build your driveline to withstand the stresses of that also in case it happens.

We always suggest to our customers to build the strongest driveline that you can afford and then drive your car accordingly with common sense based on those options chosen. Also, to complete the entire driveline package, don't forget to install good aftermarket shocks, poly suspension bushings, good alignment, good tires, etc. so that your new differential is surrounded by a an equally durable chassis.

It's not really one part that makes for rock-solid drivetrain strength, but rather the sum of a number of drivetrain upgrades working together in tandem that produces driveline reliability pass-after-pass.


Best Regards,
DTE

Originally Posted by J-Rod

Guys look. The C5 rear is spindly at best. It amazing it holds together to begin with. Now, that being said, there are lots of weak parts. We've unfortunately been "lucky" enough to break just about all of them.

IMHO your first upgrade should be the long shaft.

The first rear we had just had a long shaft. It did fine behind a H/C car on Et streets. Keep in mind Et streets soak up some of the driveline shock that gets transmitted by drag radials.

When we broke our first rear, we broke the short shaft. So, at that point we upgraded the rear to all the DTE goodies avaliable at that time.

We have a DTE rear brace
DTE long and short shaft
DTE HD clutch pack
DTE pinion support

So, what happened, it kept the rear end together, and the next time out, we sheared 9 teeth off the ring gear. We were just fortunate that when it let go, it didn't take out the side cover, or split the case.

But, if you've got the rear end busted apart to put gears in it for instance, and you know you're going to be making big power its a matter of figuring out do I want to bite the bullet now, or wait until I crack the case and grenade the rear?

If you are going to make big power you can pay now, or you can pay later. The choice is yours...